I was looking to see if there is a video or other step by step walk through for replacing the hose going from the bottom of the coolant reservoir to everywhere :-) on a 2001 XK8. There seems like a few things that could go wrong and the part is pricey enough. So any good procedure would be helpful.

Thanks

 

It is a knuckle buster more then anything. I am not aware of a video out there for the process of taking it off. Having done it all I can say is take your time, don't force the job. Look it over real well first. Hold the new one and understand where each hose is running, compare to the one in car and see what is in the way and why you are tugging it out nice and easy, WATCH where it is running through the back of the motor, important you go back in the same way when you push it in from the drivers side. On the drivers side the small hoses to the heater valve thingy I think it is are the hard ones, small and hard to get too. BEST TO REMOVE RESERVOIR TANK FOR THIS JOB.
The connector on the hose on the pass side of the motor is the hardest to get off. Most folks seem to get them off as designed to but mine was not coming off after 100k miles so I just busted off the plastic device holding it to the metal tube. When I put it back on I just cleaned up that tube of grit and grime and slide/snapped as I recall it back on the tube. When you take the old one off take note of how far it slide on the metal tube.
When you take it out you want to pull it from the drivers side. On my 03 mine had a zip tie of sorts holding it to another hose/vac line almost dead smack in the middle of the back of the motor behind the TB. Look for that tie and remove it or when you tug the hose out from the drivers side it may yank out that hose it was loosely tied to for what ever reason. Since you are doing this I would get the T that the hose connects too on the drivers side near the drivers side of the TB just below it. It is old do it while you have a hose off of it. This is the T I speak of, goes on the drivers side of the Octopus hose. Octo connects to it, small part goes to the TB and the other end is where one of the valley hoses connect. Jaguar THREE WAY CONNECTOR FOR HEATER HOSES - NNE3944BA

This job is easy actually, just small area's to work in.
Like I said look over the one in it, see how it is sitting in there, how it is routed, and just do the same when putting the new one in.
Some may say remove TB also. I did not on my job, did not see it being an issue after all said and done.

 

Did you remove the Throttle Body, or just the tube to the air cleaner?

 

Thanks for the tip on the tee too. All my hard plastic pieces of the cooling system are breaking. I replaced the thermostat tower a few years ago with a metal one. This round started with the distribution pipe, then the reservoir because connector where the hose to the thermostat goes broke, and now the pressure got restored and the octo hose blew. 115k and 14 years, seems about right. I would complain about all the plastic but I have some metal corrosion cooling system horror stories with a TR-6.

 

I don't removing hte air cleaner stuff either. Mine is so brittle on the mid section I didn't want it to crack.

 

If you wanted a less ambitious fix, I fixed leaks in two common spots, the large Norma connectors for $5. Posted in a recent topic.

Also, recommend a pressure tester. Wish I had bought one years ago.

 

just replaced the octopus hose today - what a pain in the *** it was to get the old Norma connector off.

 

Thanks. My hose is actually burst right at one of the tee sections, so I don't have room to put an adapter pipe in there with a couple of hose clamps. I wish. I have all the parts on order and am ready to lose my whole weekend coming up. I went ahead and grabbed radiator hoses and will replace them while I have the system dry. And of course running flush through the system.

 

Funny I keep hearing what a pain it is, but on the drawings they call it a quick disconnect. I think someone may be laughing at us everyday with that name.

 

It is a quick "connect" during the assembly process at the factory.

Upon disconnect, it is designed to break.