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Has anyone tried this timing chain tool set? Only 45 bucks on amazon. I am inclined to try it as doing secondary tensioners and I don't like the idea of actually removing the exhaust cam if i dont have to. It was only sticker shock leading me to the zip tie method, but doing it the "proper" way appeals if the tools don't set me back too much.
Figured ill try it and abuse Amazon's return policy but curious to hear if anyone's used it.
Has anyone tried this timing chain tool set? Only 45 bucks on amazon. I am inclined to try it as doing secondary tensioners and I don't like the idea of actually removing the exhaust cam if i dont have to. It was only sticker shock leading me to the zip tie method, but doing it the "proper" way appeals if the tools don't set me back too much.
Figured ill try it and abuse Amazon's return policy but curious to hear if anyone's used it.
It's many years since I did it, but if I recall correctly if you don't unbolt the exhaust camshaft then you have to remove the sprocket from the end of the camshaft and that is a really tight interference fit as there is no woodruff key on the shaft.
If you have a torque wrench then removing the camshaft is actually very easy. Turn the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft to a point where all the valves as a closed as possible and then progressively loosen the cap bolts. Note which cap goes where (I think they are numbered and arrowed). Installation is the reverse. The hardest part of the job is removing the cam covers as one or two of the bolts are not easy to access.
But.....if you are going this far you might want to consider pulling the timing case cover and also replacing the primary tensioners and guides, you will also need the crank pulley lock for this procedure. It isn't a huge amount of additional work to just doing the secondaries.
If you're on the fence about the additional work, drop your old pan and check for any horrors in there (e.g. pieces of chain guide). Doing so will give you some guidance on what really needs to be done.
But.....if you are going this far you might want to consider pulling the timing case cover and also replacing the primary tensioners and guides, you will also need the crank pulley lock for this procedure. It isn't a huge amount of additional work to just doing the secondaries.
If you're on the fence about the additional work, drop your old pan and check for any horrors in there (e.g. pieces of chain guide). Doing so will give you some guidance on what really needs to be done.
That toolkit has the equipment to deal with all the tensioners.
This kit has the locking tool, I purchased the same one. However, if you are doing both the upper and lower tensioners, the only thing extra you need is the tool to remove the harmonic balancer. (and a big, big torque bar).
This kit has the locking tool, I purchased the same one. However, if you are doing both the upper and lower tensioners, the only thing extra you need is the tool to remove the harmonic balancer. (and a big, big torque bar).
Last time I used the harmonic damper locking tool and a 2 foot breaker bar with a 6 foot steel pipe sleeved over the breaker bar to break the bolt loose. It made it a cakewalk. The only issue was I accidentally whacked one of the lamps hanging from my garage ceiling.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; Aug 3, 2024 at 11:25 PM.
This kit has the locking tool, I purchased the same one. However, if you are doing both the upper and lower tensioners, the only thing extra you need is the tool to remove the harmonic balancer. (and a big, big torque bar).
I'm afraid not, the camlock kit does not have a crank lock. There is a crank positioning tool but this for positioning the crank only, using this to hold the crank while you undo the front crank bolt will damage the transmission driven plate.
Well I'll be trying this today. Not doing the guides or lower, because I've inspected them with a borescope and they are fine, and the engine has less than 50k on it. At least one secondary is cracked, because I checked it a week ago, triggering this work. Also, I just don't think I can do the whole job with lower tensioners and guides in one day - a lot has to come off the front of the engine to get the timing cover off, I'd ideally want to pull the radiator fan shroud for access, haven't filled/bled the cooling system on this car before, and I don't have a garage to work in - I have to work outside. And I definitely don't want to leave the front of the engine open for more than a day, outside. So it is what it is. I feel doing the uppers is at the limit of my skill level at the moment. If I could leave it open in a garage I might be more inclined, but don't feel I have motive and opportunity for that lol.
Remains to be seen how painful it is to unbolt the sprocket versus unbolting the cam. That sprocket needs quite a lot of torque (115-125NM) going through a hex bolt. So I will make that decision once I have it open. I am still glad I got the tools to set and lock the engine at TDC, which I feel would also help with guaranteeing all valves are closed if I do lift the cam. Re clearance on that sprocket bolt as someone mentioned above, I am assuming that's why JTIS says use a long 10mm ball ended hex drive bit and to cover the cylinder head on the potential contact point:
I do hope the job goes well but, if you do have any second thoughts about removing the cam sprocket, I can perhaps ease your mind by saying that unbolting the cam is so straight-forward that it is difficult to get it wrong.
I do hope the job goes well but, if you do have any second thoughts about removing the cam sprocket, I can perhaps ease your mind by saying that unbolting the cam is so straight-forward that it is difficult to get it wrong.
Richard
After 10 minutes of heaving on the barsteward with all my strength in a very awkward position, I pulled the cam shaft instead. Much easier. Also, finding TDC and locking the crankshaft with only one person is a massive pain in the **** cos you either have to set up a remote camera, which I didn't have handy, or have a second person barring the engine over while you look out for the mark on the timing wheel. A second pair of hands would probably have made pulling the sprocket easier, but I didnt have another pair.
So after much time wasting with finding TDC and all that, I did it the trusty zip ties and remove the cam way, and got one side done before running out of time and energy. Ill do the other next week. So today I learned how to bar an engine over, so that's something and how to find TDC (even if it was unneccessary) so you lives and you learns.
And yes, my upper tensioner was cracked in the traditional location.
The toolkit did have all the right stuff for locking the cranks, cams etc though, so that's nice.
Still flabbergasted that the previous owner had the valve cover gaskets done, but not the upper tensioners.
Timing chain tool set
