In the past on other cars I would always pack the timing cover seal with grease and then install. But do I need to do this on the seal for a 1999 xk 8?

 

The recommended Jaguar sealant (part No JLM 20163) comes in 80ml (180g) tubes at an outrageous cost. To add to the annoyance, the 80ml tube I have will probably be more than enough for the next five engine rebuilds!

Peeling away the Jaguar label, I can see that it's manufactured by Loctite and the product code is 'Loctite 5699 Grey'. You've got to be able to source this or an equivalent in a smaller tube at less cost.

Graham

 

I think we are talking about two different things. I'm asking about the area between the crank and the interior sealing ring on the seal itself. should that be lubed. Not looking for a sealant to seal the seal to the timing cover. I just pressed fit that in. but it is easy enough to remove and add a bead of 5699.
It is about $9.00 us for 80ML. Still expensive when all I need is a smear of the stuff. more than a smear would come off when I press it into place.

I asked the Jag tech on the way home this evening and he was no help. I might send Beav a PM asking him.

 

I'd just give it a smear of engine oil to get it started, no need to 'pack' it with grease. As soon as the engine starts it will be getting what it needs from splashing oil.

Regarding sealants: READ the instructions! All sealants have set-up times, cure times and dry times. The gray sealant has no set-up time, you can install the part immediately. With all others you HAVE to WAIT before you can assemble the part. Read the instructions or do it again and again and ....

One other thing guys... I've told peeps this for years and it always bears repeating: when you look up torque specs you'll typically see something like "28-36 lbs/ft." That does NOT mean 'anywhere between 28 and 36'. It means NEW fasteners are torqued to the higher number, USED fasteners to the lower value. Old fasteners have already been stretched, new fasteners have not and require the extra oomph to do so.

 

Well that's my new thing learned for today!

I agree with the oil on the seal lips.

 

Thank you for this info. Another question if i may. Do I reuse the crank bolt and if so what would the new reading need to be on the "stretched" bolt be, surely not the 375nm. Or do I need to get a new crank bolt?

 

I think almost every OEM says to replace it but over the past 42 years I have probably done so.... never. If I ever have a problem I may change my tune but today isn't that day.

Your mileage may vary.

If a spec only shows one setting use that, no matter if new or old.

 

the 375nm torque setting mst be used as i have known some to come loose. no need to grease or oil the seal. the material the seal is made out of is desighnes to run on the metal of the crank to produce a seal. fitted loads never had a problem.

 

That's just plain wrong. (The oil not the torque)

Maybe you'ld like tp drop by the new member area and post an intro?

 

I noticed the instructions on my rear main replacement seal said 'Do Not Lubricate Prior to Installation'. Of course I paid exactly -0- attention to that, figuring it was going to be seeing quite a bit of oil about an hour later. It's been about 10k miles and continues to not leak but, as Curly said, "Day ain't over, yet."