Today was a sobering experience
#1
Today was a sobering experience
A buddy of mine recently installed a lift in his garage and we tested it out today with the Jag. We changed the lower ball joints, lower control arm bushings, steering rack mounts, and tie rod ends. Bloody hell was that difficult, specially the ball joints. However, the new powerflex bushings went in easy enough. I also greased the U-joints.
I took the opportunity to check the car over before taking it to an alignment shop and noticed a few issues.
The most critical item, IMHO is the transmission leak. I do not look forward to that job. It looks complicated and expensive.
Any insight is appreciated.
I took the opportunity to check the car over before taking it to an alignment shop and noticed a few issues.
- Rear suspension is in bad shape, need new shocks, sway bar bushes and links, and shock tower bush/mount. The shocks look like they require dropping the rear end.... damn
- The oil pan seems to have had a close and intimate encounter with a rock or something. The blow caused a leak there as well, although, apparently, not a big one.
- The transmission is leaking from the rear, I suspect that is the rear main seal.
- Finally measured the brake discs, they are at replacement thickness.
The most critical item, IMHO is the transmission leak. I do not look forward to that job. It looks complicated and expensive.
Any insight is appreciated.
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DavidYau (03-03-2019)
#2
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giandanielxk8 (03-03-2019)
#4
A new best friend with a car lift
geez! I’ve been thinking of installing a car lift here in Bahrain. Cost is about USD2000 for USA import two post lift but the problem is preparing the garage - floor slab, electrical supply, some lifts even require an air compressor.
If someone had one, I would be keen to “buddy up” with him. It’s worth a beer or two
If someone had one, I would be keen to “buddy up” with him. It’s worth a beer or two
#5
FWIW, do check out Motorcarman's excellent post about changing rear shocks. Good shortcut about bending the crap out of the metal brace(?) To provide an easy way to get the rear shocks out.
Sorry I don't have any way to advise you about the tranny, certainly someone will.
John
Sorry I don't have any way to advise you about the tranny, certainly someone will.
John
As for the tranny, I expect it has to go through a drain and fill, but does it also have to come out of the car to change the seal?
geez! I’ve been thinking of installing a car lift here in Bahrain. Cost is about USD2000 for USA import two post lift but the problem is preparing the garage - floor slab, electrical supply, some lifts even require an air compressor.
If someone had one, I would be keen to “buddy up” with him. It’s worth a beer or two
If someone had one, I would be keen to “buddy up” with him. It’s worth a beer or two
It really was a fortunate event. A couple years ago he was deployed in Afghanistan. Somehow he came back with a newfound love for cars and some respectable mechanical ability. I guess being cannon fodder pays well enough for a 2 post lift.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 03-02-2019 at 11:47 PM.
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DavidYau (03-03-2019)
#6
Hi, according to the workshop manual changing the extension housing seal (output driveshaft seal) is a in car job, means it does not require removing of the tranny. they recommend some special tools, but as far as i can see a they should be part of any well equiped workshop.
I've done the rear axle job several times and if you know what to do it takes about 30 to 40 minutes to drop the whole assembly. most of the related jobs are much easier to do once the axle is removed and you have a good opportunity of fighting against corrosion.
Fritz
I've done the rear axle job several times and if you know what to do it takes about 30 to 40 minutes to drop the whole assembly. most of the related jobs are much easier to do once the axle is removed and you have a good opportunity of fighting against corrosion.
Fritz
#7
GREAT docs here (with pictures): CTSC FAQs
The following 2 users liked this post by fmertz:
giandanielxk8 (03-03-2019),
volkris (03-03-2019)
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#8
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: on the road in NE Oklahoma
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More than likely it is the connector sleeve. The pan has to come off (so you have to drain/refill) so you can access a lock. Once the lock is pulled, the connector sleeve can come off. The new one has to be put in, and then locked (a bit tricky). Cheap, but some labor involved......."
As with the XK8, the XKR connector sleeve is the likely spot for leaks, especially when the weather turns cold and the O-rings shrink. Regardless of which model you have, spend the extra money and get a genuine manufacturers part, not an ebay pretender. My ebay connector sleeve was advertised as a Mercedes made part, it was not, and it leaked to high heaven. I sourced the genuine Mercedes made part from Pelican Parts, and not a drop a transmission fluid on the floor.
Z.
#9
note to anyone reading this with the 4.0 XKR motor / Mercedes 722.6 transmission. You can remove the connector sleeve with the pan in place, no pan removal necessary. It appears the XK8 owners are not quite lucky, and more work is needed to get the sleeve out.
As with the XK8, the XKR connector sleeve is the likely spot for leaks, especially when the weather turns cold and the O-rings shrink. Regardless of which model you have, spend the extra money and get a genuine manufacturers part, not an ebay pretender. My ebay connector sleeve was advertised as a Mercedes made part, it was not, and it leaked to high heaven. I sourced the genuine Mercedes made part from Pelican Parts, and not a drop a transmission fluid on the floor.
Z.
As with the XK8, the XKR connector sleeve is the likely spot for leaks, especially when the weather turns cold and the O-rings shrink. Regardless of which model you have, spend the extra money and get a genuine manufacturers part, not an ebay pretender. My ebay connector sleeve was advertised as a Mercedes made part, it was not, and it leaked to high heaven. I sourced the genuine Mercedes made part from Pelican Parts, and not a drop a transmission fluid on the floor.
Z.
Is the information given to me in this thread pertinent to the 4.2 XKR ZF 6-speed transmission, which is what I have?
I just noticed right now that when I post from my cellphone, my signature doesn't show up.
#10
Join Date: Jan 2018
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I wouldn't doubt the other posts, as long they are knowing what YOM your car is.
Z.
#11
The XKR 4.2 should have been equiped with the ZF 6HP26 and if so on your particular car you have to remove the oil pan to get the sleeve out. Depending on the mileage an oil change is recommended anyway.
On the other hand it is very good to distinguish whether the sleeve or the mentioned extension house seal is leaking. If there remains any doubt clean up the mess and look at it after a 50 mile drive.
Fritz
On the other hand it is very good to distinguish whether the sleeve or the mentioned extension house seal is leaking. If there remains any doubt clean up the mess and look at it after a 50 mile drive.
Fritz
#12
I’m at 69,000 miles at the moment. A fluid and filter change was in the cards a few months from now, but I am definitely expediting that possibly to next week.
Some good news: I have driven the car ever since and it drives amazingly. The front end feels very stable and composed. There is an absolute lack of clunks, which is surprising because the rear end needs attention.
My friend was talking to me yesterday and he said that he’s never seen anything like it. There is an absolute and surprising lack of rust on the XKR. The underbody, floor pan, that brace or plate that seems to rust up on these cars, wheel arches, exhaust, and even the nuts and bolts are free of rust. It is surprising for a car that used to live near the beach and lives in a tropical island.
Some good news: I have driven the car ever since and it drives amazingly. The front end feels very stable and composed. There is an absolute lack of clunks, which is surprising because the rear end needs attention.
My friend was talking to me yesterday and he said that he’s never seen anything like it. There is an absolute and surprising lack of rust on the XKR. The underbody, floor pan, that brace or plate that seems to rust up on these cars, wheel arches, exhaust, and even the nuts and bolts are free of rust. It is surprising for a car that used to live near the beach and lives in a tropical island.
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