My front bushes in a right mess though they had passed the MOT test .
First remove the cable to the front wheel sensor and its earth (8mm) ,cut the cable ties and have a wire to hold the brake disk

Difficult to see but all perished and crushed up. 24 mm socket on RHS to attach to rattle gun but the LHS nut was loose and the bolt not seized in the aluminium. A 15/16 in spanner was invaluable . Bolt knocked out fine with a 4 lb hammer.
Top tip is to glue ( impact adhesive) the washers into the poly bushes or the washers will all fall out when you want to fit them. No need to undo the swivel joint ..plenty of access ..no need for a vice etc.
Once released all the old bushes fell out .I am sure someone had been at them before.


Whats all that tube around the central original tube ..looks like someone tried to pack it out ...Spacers and extra washers ..what a mess...Bits of washers Rubber and spacers ..junk



To re fit was easy ..the poly bushes pushed into the arm easy But not with the tubes in so I pulled them in with a bit of threaded rod ..no problem.



Then because the washers were glued into the bushes it went straight back without everything falling out .
Tighten up and re fit the wiring to the sensor and cable ties to hold wiring in palce . I know there are supposed to be 4 thin spaces but which are they and can you get them in ?

finished jobe ...The MOT man will be well impressed.



Only bit I dont like is no locking on the main bold nut ...Will try to change it for a nylock.

 

[QUOTE=Pistnbroke; Only bit I dont like is no locking on the main bold nut ...Will try to change it for a nylock.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, I didn't like that either but the workshop manual says tighten the nut to quite a high torque (nominal 115Nm) and I think this is to ensure that the inner sleeves of both bushes are clamped against the central Aluminium sub-frame. The clamp force is high enough that a Nyloc Nut is not necessary and ensures there is no rotation of the fulcrum bolt.

 

Hi I think some of the extra washers you refer to in your photographs are in fact the spacer washers which set the correct caster angle. I may be wrong but I cannot see said washers in your final installation photograph. As well as changing the caster angle omission of the spacer washers will cause additional stress in the upper wishbone when the correct torque is applied via the pin and nut. No need of a locking nut by the way as stated correct torque does the job. I’ve just been through this exercise and I had to renew all the spacer washers. The majority of mine were in the wrong locations. There are several threads which will confirm the correct position of the washers if indeed they have been omitted.

 

It is part of the bushing. There is the inner sleeve, a perforated yellow plastic material which forms the bearing surface, then a further tube bonded to the rubber.

This is what they look like out of the box:



There is a 'dished' washer at each side of the bushing - see this post from GGG:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post1995504
...although they are not required with the poly substitutes.

And, finally, four shims on each axle which adjust the caster angle, and are placed between the inner bushing and the crossmember. Normally to be refitted in the same location, but there is a default setting for them, divided up between front and rear as shown in the following diagram. Note that this is for LHD cars - the shim placement is the mirror image for RHD:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post1996884

IMO not a bad design, but not sufficiently protected against water ingress. Should be a service item to remove, clean & lubricate every couple of years or so.

 

When I pulled it apart I looked carefully for spacers ..expecting 4 but just got junk..anyone see them in the photo let me know and I will look out on the other side which by the way looks in better shape.
On the RHS the nut was loose or not tight.
I think the only way to get spacers in would be to glue them to the bush behind the main thick washer.
Addendum
Just gone through all the bits that fell out and I have two possible spacers at 1.4mm thick ..Should be 1.6mm and 0.9.
Will wait to do the LHS and see what that has.

 

Hi I can definitely see at least one spacer in your pile of detritus. It's 4 each side, 2 thick 1.6 mm, 2 thin .9 mm position depends on region of sale UK is different to rest of world. They aren't easy to fit but just requires a bit of finesse/jiggling not the 4lb club hammer.

 

If you're ever in a jam, I found that 3/4 inch steel zinc washers are an exact thickness of 2 of the castor washers. Just pull out your trusty caliper. Its dead on.

John

 

Great tip John, except in the UK where the disposition of the washers is different to the rest of the world setting, unfortunately.

 

From the 2nd edition of the W/S manual:

 

I think with the poly bushes being built to a different specification with longer inner tubes the shims are not applicable. The space for the shim is taken up by the longer tube. You also tend to run out of thread on the through bolt to put the nut on !!.

 

Take note there is a typo in ROW listing for pack 1 left side front, should be thick x 1; thin x 1.

 

Doh! Well spotted.
At least they fixed the '0.04 degrees' error present on the other chart.