My garage is finally warm enough for me to get around to changing my upper tensioners using the zip-tie method.
I already have the new metal tensioners, the short bolts and a Victor Reinz VS50397 Valve Cover Gasket Set. I bought a new metric 1/4" socket set with short and long sockets. I've watched a couple of videos.

I have a limited time to do this, a few days, between commitments starting tomorrow. I have worked on engines before when I was younger (e.g. new valves, pistons, crankshaft, etc. on UK 4 cyl motors), but haven't done that level of work for decades.

So... maybe I can ask those of you who've done this....how long did it take you to swap out the upper tensioners (only) and what was your skill level?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

The first time, it took me about 6 hours, but I changed plugs, didn't know the exact process by heart like now, and also did some other stuff. The second time, it took 4 hours total to do the same. I have two cars, not that the job needed to be done twice on one car.

I just tried to use the victor reinz gasket set two days ago on my 00 xkr and it appeared inverted on the gaskets (the holes were on the induce or outside and were supposed to be the other? Idk, I'm on a ton of painkillers right now, someone else might chime in), they weren't useable, but my car being an 00 and one of those change years, who knows. The Lincoln ls felpro set does work on mine so no big deal. Just an fyi.

 

I had the same problem with a 00 XJR. I'll pass the word to the owner.

 

If you have swivel sockets, it will make life easier. The engine bay of the XK is smaller than the XJ 308. If you don't have swivel sockets, it will take you a little longer, but you should be able to get the passenger side cam cover off pretty quickly, maybe 15 minutes. The Drivers side might give a little trouble, you have the coolant resevior to work around. Also there is the dipstick tube that is bolted to the cam cover bolt, which can be tricky to get off, there is an 8 mm nut, then you have to pull the tube up and over the studded 10mm bolt that is below. Once this is off, it should be smooth sailing from there. Overall you should have it done in about 1/2 to 3/4 of a day if you've never done it before.

 

I was really surprised at how easy the secondary only tensioner change was. I have worked on cars as a hobby for 50+ years but never professionally and never for speed. My first effort took about 4 hours and that included some detail clean up work both in and out. That was with the correct lock down tools. Perhaps 20+ minutes of that was getting the oil check tube back in. A continuing suggestion is to leave the oil dip stick in the hole and only pull the tube out as far as necessary to clear the bolt. Some have Dremeled the problem tab off.

A compete 1/4" socket set with an universal and several extensions makes all the difference.

 

I have never had to blindly try to relocate the dipstick tube into the block because I use this method!!

Good advise.

bob

 

Don't forget the shade-tree mechanics rule (or what was presented to me as such) for time estimates:

However long it takes a professional, it will take an amateur half the next unit up.

Example: If a pro does a job in 6 hours, it will take you 3 days!

 

Thanks all for all the replies and useful tips.
So I glean that it will take maybe 6 hours or, going by the shade-tree mechanics rule, perhaps 3 days. Both extremes are within my available time, and I have the universal and several extensions, so it seems I'm good to go. One worry is the gasket set, but I've seen posts on this forum where it's implied the VR set worked for the 2001 XK8, so maybe I'm alright there. I'll report the result.
I couldn't quite get what 80'srule's issue was with using the VR set on his 2000 XKR. For my set, when I first took the gaskets out of the package, the bolt holes were on the inside (which is not the way they should be), but by twisting the gasket inside-out the holes move to the outside.

One other question on the gasket though... are both R and L the same? Judging by the square bits which cover the joints at the timing cover. mine appear to be the same. Maybe it was just the 1996-1999 models which had different R and L gaskets?
A final question: Do I need to remove the spark plugs? I can save time if they can stay in place.

 

I would remove them for checking. Also it makes it easier to rotate crank. You need to do this to ease the pressure on the valve springs for when you lift up the camshaft. Also a good time to replace the plugs if they are getting on. Not sure about the gaskets but my 1996 coupe are different but that's one of the really early ones.

 

6 hours sounds about right if you deduct the 4 hours it took me to find the one bolt I dropped in the engine.

I had a heck of a time getting some of the coil packs off until I cut a 7mm wrench in half. And you need wobblies or a good flex extension for your 1/4 in drive.

Since you have the coil packs off, I'd remove and/or replace the plugs. You will need to rotate the engine to relieve pressure and this makes it much easier.

 

The Cam Cover gaskets are different side-to-side. The secondary tensioners are different (Right and Left).

bob

 

If your secondaries are shot then so will your primaries and guides. For piece of mind do the lot, doesn't take much longer ,its certainly quicker than doing it again later on when you find that that tell tail piece of plastic the next time you do an oil change.

 

Jaguar Warranty Time is 2.8 Hours for secondary chain tensioners XK8 4.0. (plus diagnostic time and Drive-in/Drive-out)

The REAL WORLD TIME is estimated to be Warranty time, times , time and a half. (warranty X 1.5)
Warranty 2.8 X 1.5 = 4.2 Hours. (not adding diagnostic time and Drive-in/Drive-out)

I usually charge 4 hours for secondary tensioners (barring any extenuating circumstances) for normal replacement. If you have severe corrosion or have broken parts/fasteners then the estimate needs to be renegotiated.

The entire tensioner/guide or chain (primary and secondary) parts replacement is about 9.0 hours (plus diagnostic time and Drive-in/Drive-out) that includes the timing cover gaskets/seals. The front crank damper is the real time consumer.

Use this as a guide only

bob.

 

Thanks again for all the tips.

So I've already been working on it for almost two hours on the passenger side, going carefully (as it's my first time), with just a couple of minor snags such as broken wiring clips occurring.

I've got the zip tie on, the tensioner is unbolted and all five exhaust cam caps are removed, But the cam won't budge!
After trying by hand, I read one person had used a piece of wood to break the cam free and and someone else a screwdriver to lever underneath the cam between lobes, presumably levering against the center web which contains the spark plug wells.
I tried a combination of both - a 1/8" wide piece of wood against the center web edge as a levering surface and the flat screwdriver blade under the cam against the rough areas between the lobes.

However, the cam just wouldn't budge even with enough force to make me feel a bit uncomfortable (screwdriver starting to bend) .... and then the wood cracked and so I'm left with a small dimple in the edge of the center web anyway.

Before I go further, any suggestions on how to free the cam without damage would be gratefully accepted!

 

False alarm and apologies for being too quick off the mark.
I decided to have another try and using another 1/2" thick piece of wood I found as a lever, the camshaft came free at the rear first and then pulling up on the chain freed the front. I've now got the old tensioner out and the new one in and sure enough the old one has a 1/4" crack in the usual place above the circular recess in the face with the part number engraved.

 

'sure enough the old one has a 1/4" crack in the usual place above the circular recess in the face with the part number engraved.'

and your primary guides and slippers will be in a similar condition.

 

Maybe so, (and thanks for the heads up) but it's too much of a job for me to take on at present, despite the obvious efficiency of doing everything in one go. I can at least start to get back in the DIY mechanic groove and have the piece of mind that the tensioners which cause the most damage if they fail have been dealt with. Then I can deal with the primary guides, etc. at a later date when I have more time (and confidence).