I've been experimenting. I used my old gopro to video the removal of the cylinder heads from my XK8. It's a normally aspirated 4.0 in a convertible XK8. I knew the secondary tensioners were broken, and suspected the head gaskets were the old original ones.

I'm no professional videographer, and it shows. If it helps someone else tackle, the job, then great. I have removed most of the boring parts and sped it up x 4. Suggestions for improvement welcome! I'll see if I can improve when I put it all back together. Parts arrive tomorrow ( July 5th 2016)

It's on youtube at
Enjoy,

 

BRAVO! This is a well needed video, thank you.

Anybody know the secret to pulling the head without water going all over the place?

 

Very good video. I'm just did this on my car.

A few things I noticed that might be done differently.

First I always put a piece of cardboard or something over the the radiator to protect it and your skin from scrapes.
I don't think you need to lock the cams because you are removing the heads and will have to time it on reassembly.
A suggestion. Don't use a torque wrench to remove anything. I use a breaker bar and if that doesn't do it I have a 4' pipe that I slide over the breaker bar to give me a 4' breaker bar.

I just wish I had the talent or patience to make a video as good as yours. Thanks for taking the time.

 

That is beautiful! For some that have turned a wrench before the 4x speed was very much appreciated!

 

What a great service to the Jag community....thank you!

 

Robroy.
I should have thought of the cardboard over the radiator, good idea. You can see grazed knuckles in one of the shots, and I really don't want to have to buy a radiator. I should also invest in a decent breaker bar rather than abusing the torque wrench too.

I also agree you don't need to lock the cams, but you can see how much force I put through the wrench to get the bolts undone by the amount the engine moved on its mounts. I felt a bit nervous putting that much force through the chains, but you're right, it would have been ok.

dsnyder586,
I have since found drain points above the starter one side and in the block on the other. However, getting to them looked like it meant removing the exhaust manifolds, which looked just about impossible with the engine in place.

More soon....

 

I will be doing this myself soon
Thank you for posting the video

 

Your video was great for me...picked up an 01 XK8 with the heads off and have been working to put it back together. I have two questions, one they removed the VVT clutching mechanisms without marking them and they also removed all the cam buckets without referencing where they were removed from. Is there a procedure to re-install the VVT mechanism? and are there shims available to be used in the process of re-installing the cam buckets? (I'm trying to figure where they go, but thing maybe in order to get the clearance on a 100k eng, new shims might be needed...close but out a bit, pics attached). Thanks for any help.

 

I just finished doing the heads on my 2000 xk8.
I got yhe timming chains on today and will be putting the VVT mechanism on in the morning. I marked mine but they are easy to figure which one goes on which side.
As for the heads are the parts for each head separate or are they mixed up.
You want to put the cams and cam caps in their original position.
The buckets don't have to go into the same position but it is better if they do.
If I was in you position this is what I would do.
1- fit the cam buckets back into the heads putting a light amount of oil on them. Don't force any of them in. Make sure they move smoothly.
2- what I do is use a plastic storage container I got from harbor freight. I have one for each head. Then I mark it with a sharpie intake 1-8 and exhaust 1-8. I use the front of the head as #1. Remove the buckets and put them in their coresponding spot.
3- remove each shim one at a time. Measure it's thickness and make note of it. Do this for each shim. Reinstall the shims.
4- reinstall the cam buckets back to their proper position. Install the cams and cam caps back to their original positions, I hope.
5- measure your valve clearances. Make note of the clearance or each. Figure out how much adjustment you need and since you know the size of each shim from step 3 you know what size shims you need.
Also download engine repair course code 168. It's on our site but I found it easier on Gus's site Jagrepair.com.


If you have problems or questions post tomorrow.

 

That was the best video of this procedure I've seen. I especially liked the 4X speed and the comment section so we understood what you were thinking and seeing.