My car wouldn't start last Saturday morning. Didn't have time to look into it until yesterday. I checked codes all it had was P1111 which I understand is a normal code. Haven't checked fuel pressure(that's later today). Would this Bore/Cylinder wash really be the problem if... I drive it every 2 to 3 days. Last week was the exception. Monday I backed and pulled into the garage. Same routine for T-W-TH-F. Would that have been enough to cause the "wash" issue? Any help or input appreciated.

 

Starting the engine, and turning it off before it is warmed up can cause bore wash.


So, if you do have to move the vehicle a short distance, let it idle for a few mins, or a quick trip around the block is normally enough to ensure it does not reoccur.


Try starting the engine with your foot hard down on the throttle, some times this is enough to get some oil sprayed inside the bores and restore compression.


If not then its out with the plugs!

 

Exactly what andrew said!

 

Just checked my fuel pressure and it was 43+. Just did the throttle all the way down. Several times. No start. So I guess I'll pull the plugs. Couldn't test for spark the tool I have does not reach all the way down to the spark plug. Any other way to test for spark? Any other things I should check? Tested for codes still the P1111.

 

Take out a coil. Put spare plug in coil and lay on top of cam cover. Ground plug threaded piece with jumper clip. Have someone crank car while looking for spark.

 

Bore wash is not lack of spark or fuel, it's lack of compression.

 

P1111 is good. Bore wash does not throw any codes. +1 on what Mikey put.

It's not uncommon on the 4.0 and is indeed usually (always?) after not fully warming up the engine. You can either add a little oil to each bore or WOT cranking should do it (cranks with no fuel). Must be WOT not near WOT. (The oil is a better fix.)

 

Confirmed experience here. Had no other choice than to remove sparks, add teaspoon of oil in each cylinder, foot to the floor as described above and back to life (with a little smoke included ;-)

 

I've read that as it starts to run (badly) about 3/4 throttle is right.

 

That's probably good, maybe even less. If you keep it floored there will be no fuel. If I recall correctly, the owners manual (which almost no one reads) says to give it several short bursts of the starter with it floored, then start it with foot off the pedal.
Of course, they don't mention bore wash or the use of oil. I believe you're supposed to have it towed to the dealer if it still doesn't start.

 

Update. Compression was low in cylinders poured a little oil compression came up right away. New issue when taking out the spark plugs the chambers had oil sitting in them. On the outside/top of plug. My guess was major issues, but friend suggested possible valve cover gasket. Is this a possibility? The plugs appeared shot might be originals. More concerned about oil standing in plug chambers. Any guidence would be greatly appreciated..

 

The oil seals in the cam covers are bad. A gasket set includes the seals.

 

I second RJ237. Had same issue. Replaced the cam cover gasket / seals. Recently checked as a matter of fact (job done 2 years ago), wells are dry !


Cheers

 

Saw somewhere it's about a two hour job. Does that sound right? Should make it easier to get the oil down in the cylinders for starting. Any look out tricks/things to watch out for?

 

Hey larney. Well it took me a little longer than that, but in my case it appears previous owner(s) had attempted to 'patch fix' by applying some rubber sealant of some sort, hence had to meticulously clean all that off (with razor blade for most part) to have perfect flat/clean surface. And ensuring nothing fell into the cylinder. There are plenty of O' rings to replace (every bolt fitting has one for example) on top of the main gasket so that takes a little more time. While I do believe an hour per bank is possible, I would personally set aside half a day to be 'safe'.


Cheers

 

Well at the speed I work it will take most of the day. I had heard that but I would add double for me. Also good to walk away some to keep a fresh frame of mind... Just wanting to make sure I have all the info I need. Don't want to break something trying to fix something.v Not like that hasn't happened before. All parts ordered. Will be in next week...

 

Well after a trip out of town, broken leg and stay back east for an additional week I finally got around to the Jag. Took off valve covers (that's what we call them here). Changed all the gaskets, new spark plugs, teaspoon of oil in all cylinders put it back together. Turned the key and bam she started. Smoked like crazy. After about two minutes it smoothed out and purred like a kitten. Another six to seven minutes it stopped smoking. Checked for leaks. None. I did happen to break the half and full load hoses. Ordered. Should be here next week. The CEL is on haven't put the scanner on it yet. I'm betting between low battery, and both these hoses being broken that's it. Batt was low car has not been started since April 12. Just wanted to say thanks to all that offered advice and help. Couldn't have done it without your guidance.

 

Good to see you're finally getting it straightened out. Get that battery charged before you start it again, it's not good for the modules when you start with low voltage.

 

I have it on a trickle charge right now. Will not start again until I get the two hoses I broke replaaced. I'm guessing between low battery and two broken hosea that's why the CELis on. I will read codes later. Fix broken items then try again. But at least it starts.