When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Frustration and brain fog is setting in. Need to pull the alternator to get to the idler pulley bracket to fix the M10x1.5 thread with a HeliCoil. How the heck does the Alternator come out??? I can't fully pull the long bottom bolt out to clear because of the Oil Cooler Line. It needs to come out in order to slide the alternator off the top mount that, for some inexplainable reason, has a stud bolt. Can I force the oil cooler line far enough to slide the bottom bolt out?? Or what else do I have to remove???
Once this is all done, maybe I can get to the water pump that was the start of all this.....😁
I was also warned about it being fragile. Did not seem to matter I still broke it. :-)
rothwell,
I can't find any info on torque and sequence on the eight outlet manifold bolts. Since they are 4 and 4 at 90 deg., I guess there should be a sequence ???
You are scaring me. My idler has a brief squeak for a few seconds when the motor is first started in cold weather. So replacement is on my to-do list.
did the bolt come off easy ?
Z
I just did this job on my 2003. Idler pulley, tensioner and pulley, water pump, upper and lower radiator hoses, coolant crossover pipe and tower (with thermostat and temp sensor already installed) and off course the serpentine belt. I did not do the valley hoses, though I am sure that job is coming. Nor did have to remove any of the intake or intake cover and my front and rear bolts in the coolant tower were original and the same length (If you are patient and finagle with them to get the angles right ,they will come out. Best to take out the front two and loosen the rear two then remove the right side one [facing the front of the engine] and then leave the left one for last. I was able to tilt the cooling tower to shift the bolt head slightly forward and then finish removing it with an open end wrench as it literally slid past the intake plate. I did shorten them to put them back in and make things easier for later.)
But as far as the bolt on the idler pulley, it took a breaker bar with about a 3 foot long cheater pipe to break it loose! I was afraid it might strip or snap off but after an initial loud and distinct "pop" it came out fine with no issues. The same for the tensioner bolt. I think both were as installed from the factory and both were extremely tough to break loose. I did not follow the torque specs when reinstalling but tightened until things felt snug and thread movement had stopped and "bottomed" with just a bit of extra force applied once travel was ended to make sure! They are quite long and stout bolts and I would have feared for the threads in the aluminium much more than damaging the bolt or them backing out.
The water pump bolts made me nervous too. But I followed the torque specs and went to 8Nm. But the spec is 8Nm + 90 degrees! I have to say I didn't quite go 90 degrees on some as I have broken bolts off in aluminum before and these felt as if they were right on the verge. So I stopped shy on a few. Seems to have worked fine so far.
XK8 Rebel,
Thanks for your input. I have new water pump bolts on order ( at a substantial cost). I will follow your lead and see what the +90 deg. feels like. Will probably stop short too..
Drilled out the idler pulley bolt hole last night and the HeliCoil tap is arriving today. Never used HeliCoils before, but seems like a good option for soft aluminum.
Live and learn.
rothwell,
I can't find any info on torque and sequence on the eight outlet manifold bolts. Since they are 4 and 4 at 90 deg., I guess there should be a sequence ???
Are these the bolts for the crossover pipe and coolant tower? If so, I had a time finding the torque specs also. I did find some info on this site and get a response also that seemed to mesh together. 8 to 12Nm was recommended as was 10Nm . So I went to 8Nm initially, then once they were all snugged up to there, to the 10Nm recommendation. For sequencing, I just used what seemed logical and did each bolt a little at a time. IMHO the tower should go on first be torqued to at least 8Nm, and then the front crossover pipe as that then snugs the o-ring gasket on the tower down linearly and to correct spec. Once it was all back together, I torqued to them all to 10Nm which is probably less than an 1/8th of a turn.
The back two tower bolts were interesting in that you simply can't get a torque wrench directly on them if the manifold is in place. I used a ratcheting box end wrench with a flex head and did the initial tightening by feel by comparing the feel to the front two once they were at 8Nm, then when I went to 10Nm I put an 8mm Allen key in the open end section of the same wrench and used that to put on the torque wrench. I know there must be some loss/gain there since it is not a direct connection but it appears minor and no problems have been encountered from doing it that way.
Are these the bolts for the crossover pipe and coolant tower? If so, I had a time finding the torque specs also. I did find some info on this site and get a response also that seemed to mesh together. 8 to 12Nm was recommended as was 10Nm . So I went to 8Nm initially, then once they were all snugged up to there, to the 10Nm recommendation. For sequencing, I just used what seemed logical and did each bolt a little at a time. IMHO the tower should go on first be torqued to at least 8Nm, and then the front crossover pipe as that then snugs the o-ring gasket on the tower down linearly and to correct spec. Once it was all back together, I torqued to them all to 10Nm which is probably less than an 1/8th of a turn.
The back two tower bolts were interesting in that you simply can't get a torque wrench directly on them if the manifold is in place. I used a ratcheting box end wrench with a flex head and did the initial tightening by feel by comparing the feel to the front two once they were at 8Nm, then when I went to 10Nm I put an 8mm Allen key in the open end section of the same wrench and used that to put on the torque wrench. I know there must be some loss/gain there since it is not a direct connection but it appears minor and no problems have been encountered from doing it that way.
Thanks for the torque data. For the rear two bolts, I was just going to use my fishing scale at the end of a combination wrench 😁
LOL First time I ever heard of that usage! Imagine what you can say about how much that big cat you caught weighed!
Duh! I guess I am pretty dense. I finally realized that the cooling tower is a two piece assembly - the one I took out was so cruddy that I could not take it apart. . So, to torque it down is now not a problem - we have a slide fit at the o-ring. Top bolts first and then the side. To make life easy, I just ordered a complete new tower with thermostat and all seals.
Itching to get back on the road. Parts will start dropping in on Tuesday.
Well, all wheels are back on the ground again and everything is running just fine. As usual things snowballed just a bit.......
New water pump is in and no leaks. Feel like a traitor as I ended up using five aftermarket M6 grade 10.9 bolts at 0.72$ each instead of original Jaguar, offered at $17.00 each at the local Jag dealer.
Also replaced both idler and tensioner pulleys. Stripped the thread on the Idler pulley bracket and ended up with a 2D HeliCoil Insert. Found a kit for about $20 but had to get the 2D length from another source.
Of course, to get the bracket out for drilling and tapping for the insert, the bracket had to come out. For access, the Air Filter and Housing, the Oil Filter and the Alternator had to come out to provide both top and bottom access. Actually, it was a pretty easy job and HeliCoils are slick! Great and strong option for stripped aluminum treads. Would recommend to go with at least 1.5D length and 2D if there is space.
I also have a few items to return. I ordered the new thermostat and water inlet as separate items and later found out that I could get the whole assembly with the thermostat and all seals for about $130. Made it easy! Still can't figure out why the Jag Engineers did not put the two rear top bolts on the cooling manifold about 3mm forward. That way you could remove it without having to take off the front cover on the air intake manifold.
New belt and new coolant and all set to go. All my hoses looked fine inside and out and may have been replaced by previous owner. During first trip around the block, my digital battery monitor was all over the place. Crap! Forgot to tighten the power cable on the Alternator. Up on the jacks again. Alternator cooling duct and oil filter out again. The hand tight bolt had already fallen off from vibrations. New bolt on and now charging okay. Bless my mini digital volt meter, installed next to the cigarette lighter!
The whole job took a bit longer than expected, mainly because of waiting for parts packages.
Thanks for input. I was also thinking that HeliCoil was the way to go. All on order now. Can't reach to do it in place, so alternator and bracket is coming out. This all started as a simple water pump job and just keeps snowballing. Seem like most M10x1.5 are shown as 30-33 Ft.Lbs. Looking on line, maybe 25 Ft.Lbs is more like it in aluminum.
Anyway, when I look at your picture above, I don't feel so bad anymore. Is that the original or a replacement?
Great job in getting everything back together. I know it feels good. For me, after I do stuff, for the first several several drives I really do sit there kind of nervous that something's going to go flying. New at all this, ya know,,,
Its a replacement with 37k... I plan on next Wed Thurs and Fri to slowly get it done. We'll see what happens. I've been waiting a couple of years to get the courage. I am really pleased with the look of the engine tho. Sat covered outside a while. No choice. Cleaned up nice tho.
Great job in getting everything back together. I know it feels good. For me, after I do stuff, for the first several several drives I really do sit there kind of nervous that something's going to go flying. New at all this, ya know,,,
Its a replacement with 37k... I plan on next Wed Thurs and Fri to slowly get it done. We'll see what happens. I've been waiting a couple of years to get the courage. I am really pleased with the look of the engine tho. Sat covered outside a while. No choice. Cleaned up nice tho.
Well, all wheels are back on the ground again and everything is running just fine. As usual things snowballed just a bit.......
New water pump is in and no leaks. Feel like a traitor as I ended up using five aftermarket M6 grade 10.9 bolts at 0.72$ each instead of original Jaguar, offered at $17.00 each at the local Jag dealer.
Also replaced both idler and tensioner pulleys. Stripped the thread on the Idler pulley bracket and ended up with a 2D HeliCoil Insert. Found a kit for about $20 but had to get the 2D length from another source.
Of course, to get the bracket out for drilling and tapping for the insert, the bracket had to come out. For access, the Air Filter and Housing, the Oil Filter and the Alternator had to come out to provide both top and bottom access. Actually, it was a pretty easy job and HeliCoils are slick! Great and strong option for stripped aluminum treads. Would recommend to go with at least 1.5D length and 2D if there is space.
I also have a few items to return. I ordered the new thermostat and water inlet as separate items and later found out that I could get the whole assembly with the thermostat and all seals for about $130. Made it easy! Still can't figure out why the Jag Engineers did not put the two rear top bolts on the cooling manifold about 3mm forward. That way you could remove it without having to take off the front cover on the air intake manifold.
New belt and new coolant and all set to go. All my hoses looked fine inside and out and may have been replaced by previous owner. During first trip around the block, my digital battery monitor was all over the place. Crap! Forgot to tighten the power cable on the Alternator. Up on the jacks again. Alternator cooling duct and oil filter out again. The hand tight bolt had already fallen off from vibrations. New bolt on and now charging okay. Bless my mini digital volt meter, installed next to the cigarette lighter!
The whole job took a bit longer than expected, mainly because of waiting for parts packages.
I really like your volt meter location. That looks like a good clean installation. Do you have a thread here on doing that? The cigarette lighter/ash tray and coin tray are pretty much useless in these cars and beg for functional replacement options.
I really like your volt meter location. That looks like a good clean installation. Do you have a thread here on doing that? The cigarette lighter/ash tray and coin tray are pretty much useless in these cars and beg for functional replacement options.
Sorry, I don't. It is basically a black plastic panel, covering the ashtray. The meter is a mini 3 digit self powered meter from MPJA.COM for $3.50. The right button is for the JAGCD-HF Bluetooth unit for music streaming and hands free phone. The left button is for the RGB-LE unit , using the old clock/map display for front/rear cameras. Rear comes on automatic in reverse, but need button to activate front. Installed front camera because I was tired of scraping the under tray bumper. If I can provide anything more, let me know.
Could not find an 8mm crow foot for a 1/4"drive. Strong enough for these low torques. Only added about 3/4" to the length of the arm, so I went a bit lighter on the torque.
Alternator removal - brain fog
First time I ever heard of that usage!
Imagine what you can say about how much that big cat you caught weighed!
