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  #641  
Old 06-11-2020, 06:22 AM
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Thats the type of system I have. It sounds awesome, a lovely burble on tick over but all hell breaks loose on full chat!
 
  #642  
Old 06-11-2020, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Kev-P-
Thats the type of system I have. It sounds awesome, a lovely burble on tick over but all hell breaks loose on full chat!
I presume you had no issues with MOT?

if you can remove it easily for cleaning is it attached with clamps? Did you need to reapply any heat paste when you put it back?

Thinking of DIYing mine by just cutting off the rear mufflers and then clamping on straight pipes with new tips. For some reason this sound too easy to be true though!
 
  #643  
Old 06-11-2020, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by XK Owen
I presume you had no issues with MOT?

if you can remove it easily for cleaning is it attached with clamps? Did you need to reapply any heat paste when you put it back?

Thinking of DIYing mine by just cutting off the rear mufflers and then clamping on straight pipes with new tips. For some reason this sound too easy to be true though!

No problem with the MOT at all, as far as i'm aware as long as the gases pass through a silencer before they exit the exhaust then its fine, the noise volume is at the descretion of the tester.

Mine still has the large front silencer, its only the intermediate & rears which have been removed.

 
  #644  
Old 06-14-2020, 08:01 AM
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After reading up on how to replace my broken antenna for two years and unable to remove it by hand, I finally decided to remove the whole motor assembly and do battle with a vice, vice-grips and a framing hammer. It was straightforward after getting the antenna out. Sure enough the plastic pigtail was broken off inside the motor. reassembly was simple and now she works perfectly. Don't know why I procrastinated for so long, but it's my thing.
 
  #645  
Old 06-14-2020, 08:37 AM
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Well done....
 
  #646  
Old 06-14-2020, 09:08 AM
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I finally got tired of looking at a constant 'driver's airbag' yellow light on dash. Considered just removing the light, and discovered, there is no light to remove. Finally did as one member suggested, and placed a small piece of black tape over the light. Problem solved.
 
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  #647  
Old 06-25-2020, 03:17 PM
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I just picked up my XK from the Exhaust Repair shop. Had the last 2 sets of mufflers removed, replaced with 2 1/2" S.S. pipe, and oval tips. The Cat now have a very satisfying 'Growl' that is subtle at low speeds, but kicks up a bit as RPMs roll in. IMHO sounds the way it should have sounded from the factory.

Oval replacement tips

 
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  #648  
Old 06-25-2020, 10:00 PM
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In the past week I've replaced the front shocks, upper shock mounts (myself), water pump and AC receiver drier (local shop).

Like a whole new car.

Next on the agenda: all front bushings, tie rod ends, & ball joints followed with the alignment of course.

Having a lot of fun bringing this beauty back to its original Glory.


 
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  #649  
Old 07-01-2020, 08:36 AM
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Default Proper lock lubrication

After recent advice on lubricating key lock, I saw a graphite lubricant on the shelf at a local hard ware store. Then put it in, first at the secret trunk key hole in the XK8 logo.



It’s a dusty and sandy environment here and the wet lube just gums up. So dry graphite lasts better
 
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  #650  
Old 07-01-2020, 09:14 AM
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I replaced my front right fog light which was damaged after my collision with a large (and heavy) cardboard box as I was driving up the interstate. There are three brackets/bolts holding it in place and getting fingers to the front two was a royal PITA! I assume that during construction of these cars the fog lights are installed prior to attaching the front bumper to the chassis.
 

Last edited by mcook; 07-01-2020 at 09:16 AM. Reason: misspelling
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  #651  
Old 07-01-2020, 10:58 AM
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Default Dry is better

Originally Posted by DavidYau
...It’s a dusty and sandy environment here and the wet lube just gums up. So dry graphite lasts better
+1 to David's advice. Ranges from hot and humid to cold and humid here, dry is still better.
 
  #652  
Old 07-01-2020, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mcook
I replaced my front right fog light which was damaged after my collision with a large (and heavy) cardboard box as I was driving up the interstate. There are three brackets/bolts holding it in place and getting fingers to the front two was a royal PITA! I assume that during construction of these cars the fog lights are installed prior to attaching the front bumper to the chassis.
My front bumper is off at the moment and I still can't get the bolts out!

Out of about 20 bolts I have removed recently I think only 5 have come out without a fight.
 
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  #653  
Old 07-03-2020, 08:47 AM
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Default Minor oil leak at part load breather

Finally got round to fixing a minor oil leak at the part load breather on the driver side cam cover.



Very fragile plastic hose, so I was really careful. Noticed that the O Rings were flat and rotten, so replaced them with green HVAC O rings made from HBNR material.



Did a quick check to make sure the breather restrictor was clear in the cam cover, using a 1.2mm dia drill bit down the hole. All is well.
 

Last edited by DavidYau; 07-03-2020 at 08:59 AM. Reason: Correction of washers to O rings
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  #654  
Old 07-03-2020, 02:59 PM
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I did the ABS sensor cleaning a week ago, knock on wood, no random ASC not available and low brake fluid warnings since then. Next is figuring out how to clear the gearbox fault warning I caused by getting something wet I shouldn't have a month ago. My little blue tooth scan tool is ineffective at that. I'm trying to find out what scan tool works with the 01 XKR.
 
  #655  
Old 07-03-2020, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidYau
Finally got round to fixing a minor oil leak at the part load breather on the driver side cam cover.



Very fragile plastic hose, so I was really careful. Noticed that the O Rings were flat and rotten, so replaced them with green HVAC O rings made from HBNR material.



Did a quick check to make sure the breather restrictor was clear in the cam cover, using a 1.2mm dia drill bit down the hole. All is well.
I believe I need to do this fix too, it appears wet around that breather.
 
  #656  
Old 07-03-2020, 03:18 PM
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More dismantling...


 
  #657  
Old 07-04-2020, 09:25 PM
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Today I joined the ranks by installing RealGauge. I have to hand it to Steve, the instructions he provided with the kit were clear, concise, and super easy to follow. The kit was well put together and nothing was missing. What took me the most time was adding the temperature stickers. I was extremely OCD about it. In the end, I didn't like how crowded the 16 pt font looked, so I went with the 12 pt font. I think it looks better that way. I made sure all the numbers were perfectly spaced and aligned. The next longest process was doing the wire taps. I wanted to make sure I did that right and that it would work on the first try, and it did!

The RealGauge is working perfectly as advertised. I took it for a test drive this evening and it was the most nerve racking experience. The needle would hover between about 195ºF and 205ºF, or somewhere between the above the 185ºF and below the 215ºF marks. I don't know if I'll ever get used to seeing the temp needle way up over there, but it's nice to know that unless I hear the alarm, I should be good.

Unfortunately and coincidentally, during my drive two dashboard bulbs burnt out: the one that illuminates between 5k and 8k rpm, and the one that illuminates traffic cop approved speeds. Since I'll be back dismantling the gauge cluster again, does anyone what bulbs fit? Can LED bulbs be fitted? I think I will change them all, how many bulbs are required?
 

Last edited by giandanielxk8; 07-04-2020 at 09:28 PM.
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  #658  
Old 07-05-2020, 07:27 AM
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Default Dash Bulbs

Originally Posted by giandanielxk8
Today I joined the ranks by installing RealGauge. I have to hand it to Steve, the instructions he provided with the kit were clear, concise, and super easy to follow. The kit was well put together and nothing was missing. What took me the most time was adding the temperature stickers. I was extremely OCD about it. In the end, I didn't like how crowded the 16 pt font looked, so I went with the 12 pt font. I think it looks better that way. I made sure all the numbers were perfectly spaced and aligned. The next longest process was doing the wire taps. I wanted to make sure I did that right and that it would work on the first try, and it did!

The RealGauge is working perfectly as advertised. I took it for a test drive this evening and it was the most nerve racking experience. The needle would hover between about 195ºF and 205ºF, or somewhere between the above the 185ºF and below the 215ºF marks. I don't know if I'll ever get used to seeing the temp needle way up over there, but it's nice to know that unless I hear the alarm, I should be good.

Unfortunately and coincidentally, during my drive two dashboard bulbs burnt out: the one that illuminates between 5k and 8k rpm, and the one that illuminates traffic cop approved speeds. Since I'll be back dismantling the gauge cluster again, does anyone what bulbs fit? Can LED bulbs be fitted? I think I will change them all, how many bulbs are required?
I replaced as many of my dash bulbs as possible with LEDs. I believe the large ones are T10s, but had problems find replacements for the smaller bulbs. Setting the polarity is the problem, but checking before installation, marking the + side, and setting that to the bottom position works great. There is a thread to explain this, I believe.
 
  #659  
Old 07-05-2020, 01:19 PM
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I took my 97 xk8 coupe to have the AC tested. They said it passed the tests they did and it seems fine, possibly just the extra heat and humidity making it "feel" like its itt getting as cool. The previous previous owner had told me that it never really got "cold" compared to some of his other cars. Oh well. On the plus side, when i left, much to my surprise, i was one car behind about an 09 XK coupe in white! Im shocked because there really aren't that many around me and the others ive seen were all convertibles!
 
  #660  
Old 07-06-2020, 07:17 AM
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Even here is S.W. Fla, my A/C blows full cold. Have to turn the temp from 70-72 degrees, even with the top down.
Check you outflow tubes for blockage, full open louvers. Find another A/C guy???
 
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