The "What did you work on today" thread.
#1104
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: on the road in NE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,703
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For me that means 0w-40 and 5w-40. Many people in milder climes are using 5w-30. Everyone has their favorite brand of oil, mine is Mobil 1. Affordable, easy to find, and it offers great wear protection.
Z
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XKRRANDY (07-20-2022)
#1106
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: on the road in NE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,703
Received 1,579 Likes
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945 Posts
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XKRRANDY (07-21-2022)
#1107
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XKRRANDY (07-21-2022)
#1109
#1111
Super charger oil
I just finished my front with the great help of Wayne and his upper mounts advice. Big help thanks so much to all the threads out there too. Super charger oil ? I hadn’t thought of that or changing the diff oil.
I would love a link or page number in the manual. But today I put her up in the air to r & r rear shock bushings and mounts so rear differential is easy, I guess, nothing else has been easy. So far I can’t get the bolt out of the shock. I also need ideas to repair or replace or cover my cracked headlight glass, the one thing that’s easy to replace and it’s unavailable or very expensive. I know, if it was easy everyone would be be driving a Jag.
Randy
I would love a link or page number in the manual. But today I put her up in the air to r & r rear shock bushings and mounts so rear differential is easy, I guess, nothing else has been easy. So far I can’t get the bolt out of the shock. I also need ideas to repair or replace or cover my cracked headlight glass, the one thing that’s easy to replace and it’s unavailable or very expensive. I know, if it was easy everyone would be be driving a Jag.
Randy
#1113
Changed rear diff oil in a XKR convertible. Didn't cut a hole. Pain in the a.... well actually in all parts of me now.
Tl;dr if you don't want to cut a hole in your car, buy these:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html
Removed the sway bar, then I used a 3/4" crescent wrench, and all of the swear words I know and a few new ones I invented today to get the plug turning, and switched to a metric articulated ratchet wrench once it was moving to speed things up a bit.
Along the way found the sway bar bushings were perished (easily fixed on a later date), new bushings on order, tempted as I was just to get whole new endlinks from rock auto), cleaned the diff breather, had a look in there with a borescope. Car had a transmission service less than 5k ago but it was leaking out of the right output shaft area and had no idea how much fluid might be in the diff or what was going on in there, thus the service.
Tl;dr if you don't want to cut a hole in your car, buy these:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...aps-67011.html
Removed the sway bar, then I used a 3/4" crescent wrench, and all of the swear words I know and a few new ones I invented today to get the plug turning, and switched to a metric articulated ratchet wrench once it was moving to speed things up a bit.
Along the way found the sway bar bushings were perished (easily fixed on a later date), new bushings on order, tempted as I was just to get whole new endlinks from rock auto), cleaned the diff breather, had a look in there with a borescope. Car had a transmission service less than 5k ago but it was leaking out of the right output shaft area and had no idea how much fluid might be in the diff or what was going on in there, thus the service.
#1116
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: on the road in NE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,703
Received 1,579 Likes
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945 Posts
I’ve been using the Mobil 1 75w-140 for at least two decades on many different cars, both classic and modern. And have never had to replace bearings or gears due to wear.
Z
#1117
I jumped into my car after a couple of months of it not being driven and got the dreaded restricted performance message. Turned out to be P0332 which is knock sensor. I followed Jim Lomardi's excellent instructions and got it replaced in about half an hour. If only they were all that easy!
#1118
I swapped the T10 bulbs in the dashboard and centre console with LEDs.
Horror story so far with T4.2 LEDS in AirCon unit: Amazon ordered whites too loose, next order greens fit but 90% failed...cheap but waste of $.
NEED a referral to order quality t4.2 LEDs...will try blue to match the T10s.
T10s look good [white lights] give off a blue shade and I still might try green T10 LEDs as this will avoid need to change Aircon, radio, shift, etc to match.
New issue I will post separately...oil pressure, alternator and fuel gauge all appear not working. I got a 'low oil pressure warning' too! Oil level is fine.
Did a hard battery reset [touched earth to positive for 30secs] but no help.
Oil pressure? Battery?
Fuel?
Horror story so far with T4.2 LEDS in AirCon unit: Amazon ordered whites too loose, next order greens fit but 90% failed...cheap but waste of $.
NEED a referral to order quality t4.2 LEDs...will try blue to match the T10s.
T10s look good [white lights] give off a blue shade and I still might try green T10 LEDs as this will avoid need to change Aircon, radio, shift, etc to match.
New issue I will post separately...oil pressure, alternator and fuel gauge all appear not working. I got a 'low oil pressure warning' too! Oil level is fine.
Did a hard battery reset [touched earth to positive for 30secs] but no help.
Oil pressure? Battery?
Fuel?
#1120
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,078
Received 2,291 Likes
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1,503 Posts
I managed to dislodge one side of the high-mount stop lamp a while back, so it was time to take a look.
It's a bit of a squeeze in there, but the cover slides off pretty easily once the two catches underneath are pressed in.
One of the two metal H-shaped retainers had detached from the glass:
Note that they're handed as the upper face is canted slightly
OK so that will be easy to bond back with some JB-Weld.
Unfortunately, the plastic that slides over that hadn't fared well. From the Department of Egregious Engineering:
This is the 'clip' on the end of the lighting tray that slides onto the retainer.
It is incredibly flimsy and had broken off. I've glued it back in place, and I'll glue some small, shaped pieces of plastic around it in an attempt to make it more robust.
This is how it engages with the metal retainer
And, finally, the plastic tang that holds it in place on the retainer:
I pushed a largeish zip-tie through between the clip & the retainer to release it.
Both the designer at Valeo and the QC man at Jaguar should have their gonads squeezed hard for this miserable effort
It's a bit of a squeeze in there, but the cover slides off pretty easily once the two catches underneath are pressed in.
One of the two metal H-shaped retainers had detached from the glass:
Note that they're handed as the upper face is canted slightly
OK so that will be easy to bond back with some JB-Weld.
Unfortunately, the plastic that slides over that hadn't fared well. From the Department of Egregious Engineering:
This is the 'clip' on the end of the lighting tray that slides onto the retainer.
It is incredibly flimsy and had broken off. I've glued it back in place, and I'll glue some small, shaped pieces of plastic around it in an attempt to make it more robust.
This is how it engages with the metal retainer
And, finally, the plastic tang that holds it in place on the retainer:
I pushed a largeish zip-tie through between the clip & the retainer to release it.
Both the designer at Valeo and the QC man at Jaguar should have their gonads squeezed hard for this miserable effort
Last edited by michaelh; 03-05-2023 at 04:08 PM. Reason: change pic #3
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