You will need a special tool to remove the ABS nut to get to the bearings. It's a sealed bearing. Also, you need snap ring pliers. We sell the specail tool for $150.

We also sell the aftermarket bearings.

 

Well CB, now that we know you are adept at web searches and data transfer....

Do a little learnin' about the front wheel bearings on your car, beacause the job is nothing like replacing the tapered roller bearings in your mind's eye.


typo

 

You'll have to remove the caliper, rotor, detatch the tie rod ball pin, detatch the upper and lower ball joint ball pins, and the ABS lead to remove the upright/ hub assy.

 

Then you can remove the locking ring, with the aforementioned tool if you desire, and mount the vertical link in a press. Press the hub from the bearing, remove the snap rings, and press the bearing out of the hub. Hot shot DIY guys can tell you how easy this is. Best wishes

 

Nice attachment there CB00JAGUAR

 

Hot Shot DIY Guy #1 here:

Idid this very project yesterday. It is pretty easy to pull the upright yourself. .

Thentake it to your Jaguar Independent. He'll remove the ABS nut and R&R the bearing. Total cost labor $100.

Parts from JPLV: Timkin sealed bearings $63 ea.; Circle Clips $10 (04ea. @$2.50)

The most difficult task is removing the ball joints and tie rod ends. I have a scissors-type screwdownball joint remover that pops 'em right off no sweat. I got it from Amazon Tools for $27. This is a must have if you are working an XK8 front end. The shop also needs to have an ABS socket, you cannot jury rig this setup, you need the special tool.

Now if you dont have a good floor jack, jack stands, and a good half inch drive tool set... well then either get some, or pay the mechanics to do this. This is more difficult than changing spark plugs, easier than the tensioners

 

Piece of cake! And then you come across one where the lower ball joint ball pin is siezed into the upright, and you can't separate it without damaging the lower ball joint. Now you have to buy or rig up a spring compressor, order a ball joint and find a guy to press that in too.

You don't need the factory tool for the locking ring, and you can buy either the early or late bearings at your local parts store for about $30 each. The only time I ever needed a replacement snap ring was when I pulled an upright apart to replace a bad bearing, and the previous guy had broken 1/3 of it off and re-used it anyway.

 

How do you remove theABS nut w/o the special socket?

 

Moot point, yours are finished. You would scoff at my caveman technique anyway.

However, someone thought highly enough of my method to republish my direct quote on his DIY website (without attributuion to me, of course). It's a site you've probably been to... if not, maybe one of your librarian buddies can look it up for you.

 

Whatever... BTW would that be Cro-Magnon or Neanderthal?

 

And so far as my lack of compassion as noted on Roadkill:

I spent an hour and a half investigating printed information, inspecting a similar vehicle,and prepairing adetailed report to an owner whose car had quite possibly been incorrectly diagnosed. His response indicated that he had not read, or understood, any of the information I provided. Instead he wrote of his intention to bring the car back to his service facility for the expensive repair they had told him was necessary.

That makes BOTH of us idiots, now doesn't it. He, and others whoregularly get roadkilled, are free to repeat those mistakes as they wish. I don't make the same oneagain.

 

Yeah, that would get me angry also.

 

I would trust Neil. If he says no worn bushings, I would look elsewhere. If you want to do the bearings, just take it back to him. I figure anyone can make a mistake. Jaguar of Houston can do it for a lot less than the dealers.

If you still have a shimmy, look at shock bushings, tie rods, etc. There are quite a few things that could cause this.

 

I had a similar situation as this on the used XK8 just purchased. Wheel vibration and shimmy. I first attempted to perform athe standard troubleshoot techniques. The only postitive indication was a worn right lower ball joint. A couple of techs told me they could find no indication of anyparts causing the vibration and everyone had a different take on things.

However, as I systematically replaced each wear part;the problem gradually diminished.

1. Tires were the first to be changed and they made a big difference

2. Ball joints top and bottom. First just the bottom, thenlater the tops. Replacing theworn bottomrightwas noticiable.

3. Control arm bushings - I replace all. They muffled the vibration somewhat, but did not cure it.

4. Shock absorbers - First I replaced a worn bushing; then both the shocks themselves. Like the control arm bushings, this fix muffled the vibe dramatically.

5. Wheel Bearings - The right front wheel bearing was very dry. You could hear it rotate. The yank the wheel test did not indicate any bad bearings, but after they were replaced almost all of the shimmy was cured.

It was concluded thatthe originalvibration was a combo of three things. Tire imbalance, RF wheel bearing, and RF lower ball joint. However, even after these three items were replaced; there existed enought freeplay in the rest of the wear parts, that replacing them also contributed toreducing the remaining shimmy and shake.

And finally, if you have a convertible, there will always be the cowl shake ever present to remind you that your unibody is also a spring.

BTW If I was going to drive 120 mph, I would replace everything above without question My car had only 65K miles.Before going that fast I would get new tires if they are over five years old.IMHO floating around at over a hundred miles per hour, complaining about a loose front suspension is not sane behavior.

gordo