I’m confused. What am I to use the fiberglass for? That thing that was in the valley on top of the hoses?

 

The fiberglass would obviously be a substitute for the “thing”.

If it were me, I’d wrap the hoses both under and over with a thin layer of of the fiberglass cloth, the same stuff you can get at any hardware store that’s used to wrap water pipes to keep them from freezing.


the idea would be the same purpose as “thing”; to keep some heat (from the supercharger?, or the engine?) away from being absorbed elsewhere. If the hoses benefitted from a little insulation , all the more better.


Putting these hoses under the intake was fine for cars that lasted 10 or so years. For cars needing to last 25+ years, not such a great plan.

if and when my car is ever apart, I’d seriously consider a secondary solution of routing all the hoses to a more accessible location.

Z

 

I’ll check it out. At least I expect silicone hoses to withstand those temperatures better than the rubber ones but I would like something to protect them from sharp edges.

 

Masking those letters was a pain in the ***.


First coat of red. The white still seems to show through. Will do a second coat.

Seems to have covered better on metal parts.




I’m kind of nervous about the color. The red I choose was darker in the color chart. Hopefully a second coat makes it look a little bit darker.

 

Gain, I liked the blue and white photos and then the red came on, it's going to look great and will light up the engine area.
The pictures of the red look, well red, do you want deeper? That might get into maroon, either way looking good!
Glad you did it, can't imagine what it would cost to have it done.
No rush, but when are you going to get it together for us to see the effect?

 

Blue was the masking tape, final product will be red and white. Yes, the color is very red. Under sunlight I like it better than what I was seeing last night.

I’m going to do a second coat this afternoon.

The guy at the machine shop who is rebuilding my supercharger snout and installing the 10% pulley said he’d have it done by Friday. If all goes according to plan, I should begin re-assembly this weekend… but I have yet to tackle that EGR bolt and with all the space I now have to work with, I’m not going to do re-assembly until I have replaced that broken stud.

 

I have now done the second coat and removed the masking tape from the coil covers. I like the look.

I will have to do a little bit of wet sanding on one of the charge coolers to smoothen a defect and on both of them to reveal the white letters.

On close inspection, you can also see defects with the coil covers letters but, even so, they did not turn out too bad.

 

Yes, that took a lot of patience and you made it your own. Well done.

 

Thanks! I will be wet sanding and polishing them to try to fix the small orange peel and tiny imperfections.

Some good news! I was finally able to remove the remaining EGR nut without breaking the second stud using a combination of: 13 mm ¼ inch drive socket with impact rated ¼ inch u-joint with impact rated 1/4 to 3/8 drive adapter with 6 inch extension with impact rated ⅜ to ½ drive adapter attached to to my Milwaukee ½ inch impact driver and a week of soaking in PB blaster.




Now I just have to figure out how to remove the broken stud. Does anybody know if it’s right or left hand threaded?

 

Ok, the stud came off very easily using vise grips.

 

Lucky to be able to get at it with the tool of choice, in a lot of cases.