Hi Guys,

Hope some one can help me here.
After no small amount of effort I have managed to remove the drivers side blower motor assembly. It is not working.
What I can tell, the motor works when connected directly to the battery.
I sourced another blower resistor/transistor but that didn't work.
I seem to have voltages, at the connector, some of these vary when the fan speed is adjusted - so I suspect that the air con module is working.
I did try and swap the relays over, this didn't change the situation, passenger one working, driver's side not.

Any other diagnostic info? Did I just get another bad resistor/transistor module?

thanks for any input...

Matt.

 

A basic observation: there are 2 independent sides to this system, so feel free to swap parts left to right. I would start with that ballast. Put the "new" ballast on the working side to see if it works, then swap the working side ballast with the non-working side. Just my thoughts.

 

so this means stripping out the passenger side also? wow, that seems like a lot of work...and I'm not even sure how to do that. I had so much trouble getting the driver's side out. I am working blind with no manuals though....

 

You don't say what model year you have, but workshop manuals are available here: workshop manual

and wiring diagrams here: wiring diagram

 

Query the climate control module and see if it kicks any codes out. Too bad you found it would run from 12v after pulling the unit. That's a big job.

 

The climate module doesn't give this level of codes....

 

Ok, Update...

I pulled the glovebox out, plugged the driver's side blower unit in and it works perfectly. Swapped the relays over and still working....

Damn.

Does this mean I'm looking at a replacement air con control module?

BTW - Checked the voltage on the motor wires at the blower connector plug - I see battery voltage on the passenger side across black and blue, and half that on the driver's side....

Anything else I should be looking at?

thanks,

 

btw - this is a 97 coupe.

 

The wiring diagram, Fig 7.2, has a data sheet associated with it, often at the end of the pages of all diagrams. That shows the differing voltages to expect between the Blue wire and the Green wire on each blower for high and low speed. Checking them would show if the module is putting out the right signals.and if left and right are the same or not.

 

Hi Guys,

So after much prodding and head scratching. Here is what I found.

After plugging the driver's side blower unit in to the passenger side connector and it worked. I went back to the fuse boxes. I have battery voltage on the supply fuses for the blowers. But at the rely connector for the driver's side blower unit, I only have half battery voltage. Jumping from the passenger side one, everything works fine - see image below.

Is there any downside in making this permanent?

Is there a common place where this wire could be broken or chaffed?

Look forward to any info you might have here.

Thanks,


Relay Connector

 

A digital meter draws very little current so you may find that a test lamp on the bad side will not light, indicating a poor contact somewhere.

Each blower is fed from F11 in the relevant fascia fusebox, and II can't see anything common.

You could jumper the two across as a temporary measure, although you may have an issue with the driver side fuse blowing from the extra load. I would advise not to increase the fuse rating as it's there to protect the wiring.

HTH

 

So - update, today I soldered a jumper wire across the two terminals to effectively borrow some power from the passenger side Fuse box. I looked and tried to trace the fault in the cable, and since as far as I can see it's a straight shot from the fuse panel on the driver's side to the relay on the passenger side, there was no way I was ripping out the rest of the interior to try and chase where the wire might be pinched, trapped or otherwise damaged. The more you look at Jags, the more you see all the stupid areas for damage on the wiring.

So, with the jumper in place, I ran the fans at full speed for about half an hour, and checked back on the connection, there was no warmth in it and no issues. So I put the blower back in the driver's side, replaced the steering column and all the trim, put the passenger side back together and called it a day.

BTW - I didn't change the fuse, if that starts becoming a problem then it's time to think of another solution. I would not increase the fuse value and risk the wiring burning out.

Happy that the fans are now working and it is delivering the right amount of air.

Will update if anything changes.
Otherwise, now to fix some other issues.

thanks for the input.