XK8 aerial is dead
#1
XK8 aerial is dead
Hi all.
My aerial goes neither up or down; no motor action at all. I've had it apart and put 12v on the connector and the motor spins fairly fast then slow then fairly fast seemingly forever. I've measured 12v coming out of the radio side of the connector so assume all is good there.
Does anyone know if there should be 12v pulse from the head unit at switch on or off?
If the aerial does need replacing anyone know an affordable (UK) replacement?
Thanks.
Paul.
My aerial goes neither up or down; no motor action at all. I've had it apart and put 12v on the connector and the motor spins fairly fast then slow then fairly fast seemingly forever. I've measured 12v coming out of the radio side of the connector so assume all is good there.
Does anyone know if there should be 12v pulse from the head unit at switch on or off?
If the aerial does need replacing anyone know an affordable (UK) replacement?
Thanks.
Paul.
#2
#5
A common antenna problem is the teeth on the flexible plastic strip that raises and lowers it can get worn away. If so, you may be able to get away with just replacing the mast. I had my "old" XJ-S for about 20 minutes before I broke the mast. Being a 6.0-liter, it had a spoiler on the deck lid. At the time, I didn't know you had to wait a couple of seconds after popping the trunk to allow the mast to go down. I ignorantly threw the truck open and the spoiler bent the mast but good. Found a replacement mast on ebay. Ditto on the overpricing of the OEM. Generic substitutes are available on ebay, also.
Last edited by Stamford; 10-04-2014 at 03:36 PM.
#8
Dead antenna
I use a small piece of folded 2000 grit sand paper to clean relay contacts and connectors. search on line for XK8 antenna switch, there is a video of putting in a switch that shows the wire location at the harness connector in the ceter console. This should have 12V when ever the head is turned on.
Steve J
Steve J
#9
#10
#11
Almost every electric motor failure I've seen is due to carbon brushes either worn out or cupped which then cause them to stick in the winding slots. I've fixed oh so many by this repair, if the brushes are still in good shape and springs allow for contact just sand them flat again. That is if you can disassemble the motor itself, I've ran across riveted cases but those too can be drilled and fixed.
#12
Thanks for the posts folks. I've now cleaned the rotor contacts with contact spray and a plastic blade and it's spinning well now; but only when powered by a test battery.
Can someone confirm for me: At the connector there should be Ignition 12v +, GND and switched 12v+ when the radio is on and no switched 12v when it's off? If so is it a timed 12v+ switched?
Can someone confirm for me: At the connector there should be Ignition 12v +, GND and switched 12v+ when the radio is on and no switched 12v when it's off? If so is it a timed 12v+ switched?
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