XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

XK8 Purchase

 
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:31 AM
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Default XK8 Purchase

Gentlemen

I have been smitten by the XK8 bug and am looking to purchase a convertible. Been lurking on this site to educate myself

Car will be a hobby car maybe 2-3K miles a year in the Arizona desert. Budget maybe $12K. Mechanical work by professionals as I am getting too old to crawl under cars anymore.

I have been focusing on the 2003 and newer because of the redesigned 4.2 motor. Aware of the issues with the 2001-2002 4.0 motor and timing chain issues. Would buy one if service history shows chains were replaced.

Any precautions/tips appreciated

Randy

Am I correct in looking at 2003 and newer in that the mechanical issues are fewer?

Re maintenance by previous owners....I noticed Jaguar does not recommend a trans fluid flush. Good idea?

Also since the tires are staggered I guess You can't rotate tires.
 
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:45 AM
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I always say that if you cannot DIY the majority of the ongoing maintenance and repairs, these cars can quickly plow through your checkbook. Even the newest ones are now more than 14 years old....

The 4.2 engines / ZF 6HP26 transmissions typically suffer fewer problems than the earlier models, but proper maintenance history is crucial....

No such animal as "lifetime ATF" in ANY vehicle. Many of us with the ZF 6HP26 do ATF drain-and-fills using Ford Mercon SP ATF which meets the required Shell M1375.4 specs and is a fraction of the cost of the OEM Lifeguard 6 ATF....

I rotate my wife's 2006 XK8's staggered tires on the same axle, side to side every 6,000 miles. Not ideal of course, but it is better than no tire movement at all....
 
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:57 AM
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Randy,

I am also in the AZ desert and I just found my 2004 this spring. I am in the "very old" category and I love the XK8. There are quite a few rust free cars coming up. Keep looking!!
I will do a lot of crawling under myself even if the bones protest. I did the transmission oil/filter without too many burn blisters. I have not found a good shop yet, but is hoping that the Arizona Jaguar Club members can provide some good info.
I am away for the summer and the Jag is on jacks and on a battery maintainer. Can't wait to get back and start fixing a few of the minor issues.

Good luck with your search. We have the right "top down" weather - at least in the winter
 
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon89 View Post
I always say that if you cannot DIY the majority of the ongoing maintenance and repairs, these cars can quickly plow through your checkbook. Even the newest ones are now more than 14 years old....

The 4.2 engines / ZF 6HP26 transmissions typically suffer fewer problems than the earlier models, but proper maintenance history is crucial....

No such animal as "lifetime ATF" in ANY vehicle. Many of us with the ZF 6HP26 do ATF drain-and-fills using Ford Mercon SP ATF which meets the required Shell M1375.4 specs and is a fraction of the cost of the OEM Lifeguard 6 ATF....

I rotate my wife's 2006 XK8's staggered tires on the same axle, side to side every 6,000 miles. Not ideal of course, but it is better than no tire movement at all....
Your comment is dead on about the paying stuff out.

My early X100 XKR, which is notably more reliable than a same era XK8, but still has it's problems; has cost about $6k in 9 years between tires, oil changes, maintenance, repair, etc. That's ALL DIY other than tire mounting and two alignments. I've probably put what would cost at least $15k in labor into it during that time. Convertible top hoses, timing components, suspension, brakes, etc. Other than the timing job, all the crap is relevant to a 03+ XK8/R.

My early X150 XKR on the other hand is probably a much better choice for a pay it out kind of guy. The base XK that year is probably in the budget for 66RBS and worth consideration. All of these are getting old though, and even the X150s are starting to hit age related component replacement time. Try to find a car that someone poured a bunch of PM money into then is selling. Buying the best example is absolutely critical if not DIY.
 
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:28 PM
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With a $12K budget, there are still low milage ones that don't need chains, yet, If buying a pre-2002 with less than 70K miles, just make sure the secondaries have been done, for now, when the car hits 110K miles, or clatters, then think about the Primaries

All years suspend the suspension with closed cell foam that turns to dust in less than 20 years, so even a 2006 will likely need a complete suspension overhaul in the near future.

Ball joints and wheel bearings are a ******* and these cars were not made to be driven on roads that double as storm sewers. NEVER drive an XK8 through 6" of water. Mine was a north Texas car and the "sealed" wheel bearings were a rusted mess, from nothing more than occasionally splashing through water on Texas roads.
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 01:05 PM
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If someone wants to purchase a 2001 XK8 that has been well cared for and maintained, there is no reason not to.
I'm over 103,000 miles now.
This is the most reliable and lowest cost to maintain car that I've ever owned. I absolutely believe that taking good care of it has payed off, and garaging the car is a huge part of that, maybe the biggest part, competing with regular oil changes for top honors.
I also don't let anyone touch the car unless absolutely necessary. I would always open the door for women. They think I'm just being nice, and I am, but there's more to it than that. A couple weeks ago I went to inspection and I was in need of medication as I watched the inspector get in the driver's seat. Of course it passed inspection like it was new.
I still haven't found any rust on the body. This car might spend 10 nights outside over the course of a year, mostly if I take it on vacation, which I don't do much anymore, so it probably sees rain only two or three times a year now.
I do 99% of my own maintenance and document everything. I had one year when my maintenance cost was $0, not even an oil change because of mileage and it had one in December, then 13 months later in January. You can't beat $0.
My biggest expense by far was tires, but now that I don't put as many miles on it, that cost has gone down.
I would say that other than tires, brakes, and oil changes, my maintenance cost averages about $100 per year.
I've had the car for 14 years, and $1400 in repairs is as good an estimate as I can give.
The original battery lasted 14 years. I still have the original starter in the car. I've done the timing chains ($700 or so), and ABS module (cost nothing to solder), changed the battery (about $120), fuel pump (about $100), water pump (less than $100) and thermostat housing (less than $100 as I recall).
The most expensive job was the timing chains that I did a few months ago which accounts for about half of the $1400 but I've owned the car for 14 years so when you divide the money by the years, the math is quite good. I have a few more things to do on the car, but nothing urgent, and even with that, the cost of ownership has been very reasonable.
I had the car out last week and I was very pleased with it. It starts and runs just like the day I bought it in July 2005.
The only downside is that the book value has taken a dive, but I'm not selling it so that doesn't matter.
I would buy this car again.
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 05:02 PM
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Thanks Greg for that reply

i would buy a 2001 or 2002 if the timing chains were done or the price was right to allow professional repair. I have been looking at private party only so I can get a picture of the maintenance

you mentioned price. It seems all the private party ads I have seen sellers are asking over Kelly Blue Book . 2001 with 55k miles @ $10k, a 2003 with 30k miles at $17k.

Randy
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 66RBS View Post
Thanks Greg for that reply

i would buy a 2001 or 2002 if the timing chains were done or the price was right to allow professional repair. I have been looking at private party only so I can get a picture of the maintenance

you mentioned price. It seems all the private party ads I have seen sellers are asking over Kelly Blue Book . 2001 with 55k miles @ $10k, a 2003 with 30k miles at $17k.

Randy
Randy, keep looking! Last winter in Arizona, there were quite a few in the 10 - 12k$ range. I found two 2004's that were in great shape. The one I bought had 49000 miles and I paid 11k$. The other had mileage in the 70's but seemed very well cared for.
The car is in mint shape and has a totally clean undercarriage. The only thing that I have fixed since i bought the car is the "Green Shower" and an oil leak on the Power Steering return. Also did a transmission oil and filter change. All doable without too much trouble. Have to agree with a few of the other writers - count on doing some of the work yourself. The dollars can run away quickly

Before I left for the summer, I made one 1000 mile trip out to visit family in Texas. Car is a total joy to drive. So, just keep on looking!!
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 05:40 PM
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If I were buying another XK8 I would definitely stick with the 2003+ 4.2L version. There are soooo....many things that have been corrected/improved that I just took for granted on my 2004.

Just recently I learned that the seat bottoms of the older cars are held up by woven material (that falls apart) vs metal basket in 2003+ years. Little annoying **** like that exists all over the place in the older cars.

FWIW I have the belief that these cars will always be a $15-20K expense. Either you will get a "really good deal" and pay 10K for one with another 5-10K in repairs. Or you will pay 15-20K for one that is in well maintained condition and has already been "expensed" by its current owner.

It is doubtful you will never find one for ~10K that needs nothing and lasts a long time. Cars like that are simply worth more than 10K in today's market.

Just understand that ultimately it is going to cost you $15-20K - eventually. You can pay more for a well maintained car and truly enjoy it. Or you can pay less and enjoy it whenever it is not being repaired/costing you more money.

Mine is a daily driver that I have personally driven over 60K miles with zero breakdowns. However I have done thousands of labor dollars along the way.
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 07:39 PM
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There is also a large element of luck, although most will fall somewhere in the middle. I bought a 51k mls 01 XK8, excellent interior/exterior, where the previous owner had a spun a bearing and had to fit a replacement engine. But then I know someone who bought a recent supercharged XF and also spun a bearing. Very unusual - terrible luck. For the X100s you have to do the secondary tensioners obviously, but that is quite easy. Then the top shock mounts, thermostat housing, throttle position sensor connector, octopus hose, etc. - mileage is irrelevant vs. age. Preventative maintenance on the transmission (A drum) and top hydraulics (green shower) is a dilemma but ideally should be done (it's on my to do list and has been for a long time....). I also had the alternator go out, the fuel pump, and a seat module. Old car - it happens sooner or later. I've had 2 year runs of no issues, then hit with a load of repairs all at once. I don't think it's worse than any other make of similar complexity - but with so many long term owners on the forum all the issues are well known, and that can be a little scary while you absorb the information. If you are not going to DIY the repairs I would really study what are the most common issues, as you are clearly doing to try to find one that has been well maintained/fixed, or budget accordingly. No way am I selling mine.
 
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Old 07-12-2019, 08:44 AM
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:25 AM
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Nalle

thanks. Not familiar with BAT but interesting. 5% buyers fee. The completed auction is helpful in seeing that these cars go for more than KBB

I would likely not buy an XKR due to the added complexity and potential repairs. I do have a 2006 Supercharged Mini Cooper S with no issues other than Maintenance at 70k which was an oil change in the supercharger
 
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Old Today, 08:07 AM
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Are the 2003 + subject to the green shower hydraulic hose issues?
 
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Old Today, 09:00 AM
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Randy,

Actually I think the first few MY cars actually had the best original hydraulic pipes, but IMHO somewhere in time, the bean counters intervened and less durable material was then used. Very easy to check visually the pipes at the pump as it's located in the RHS of the trunk. If the black sheathing is actually falling off the hydraulic piping it'll all need attention. If you're really interested, and can't visually see the car, at least insist on a pic of the pump. You may get luck and find a car that had the work already done. Some may even have fitted the pressure reducer resistor on the pump.

At the age of the cars now, the Issue isn't really the year of the car and the original pipe material but, more importantly, as to whether the car has sat in the sun and baked the top of the windscreen. If the hydraulic fluid has been static, this will fry the piping, and if the convertible hood has not been used, the fluid will cook and clog and cause blockages. So coupled with the uber high pressure pump, this results in the infamous green shower at the overhead latch.... and you'll have virtually no warning of the problem.

Even in the summer extreme heat of the Arabian Gulf, 120degF+, where ACs are on 24/7, my 1999 XK8 is shaded/garaged and I cycle the convertible hood at least once a fortnight to keep the hydraulic fluid moving. As routine maintenance, once the Arabian summer is over, I'll be changing the hydraulic fluid, just before the winter "top-down season" here.
 
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Old Today, 12:23 PM
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Good info David

Another inspection point to look at during pre purchase

Is a "convertible hood" aka the top ?
 
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Old Today, 12:41 PM
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Default Convertible top is the retractable hood

LOL. The British American difference in lingo always makes me chuckle.

Even some technical discussions here are all wrong when we confuse boot with truck, hood with bonnet and even which is the Driverís side.
 
 
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