Try NAR Group LTD in the UK. (www.nargroup.com) Part MJA7440AB is £105 + shipping.

 

An easy and less expensive way to replace is to find a tech school near you that can fabricate a part from a solid T-6061 or 4047 Aluminum bar billet. Buy any oil cooler with an overall width/height and core (row) size as old cooler.

What I did was cut the female connection off the old cooler (pic #1) and took it to my local tech school.




They had a fancy lathe that could fabricate that part from a solid piece of aluminim (pic #2a, 2b & 2c) - have them make 2.





If they can, also have them thread both the hole on the tapered part to match the threads from the cut part (for the connecting bolt) but also the end of the new part that's to attach to the new oil cooler with #8AN threads either female or male to fit to new oil cooler. I didn't think to do the latter part so I had to order 2 weldable female bungs (pic #3a & 3b) and have the tech school weld them onto the new part.


Weldable bung

Bung screwed onto new cooler with "O" ring

Simply screw on the new part to each side of new cooler and connect to "teardrop" pipe (pic #4) on the jag.



Then attach new cooler to jag mounts with new bolts with the rubber grommets.

 

17mm prothane sway/anti-roll bar bushings with greaseable bracket installed on 2001 XKR
Made for 1985-1994 Subaru various models
$25 Nov 2025

 

Rear are they?

Power Flexes look bit different, but IFAIK they are 1:1 to OEMs: https://www.powerflex-shop.com/2-x-P...Bar-for-Jaguar

 

Since the fill plug for the Jaguar XK8 X100 6sp transmission appears to be a single-use item, AND it appears to be unavailable or unidentifiable from the usual sources as a Jaguar part;
it is widely available as a BMW part from many BMW models, particularly every year of the X5, to date.
Generically, it is identified as a size M18 x 1.5mm plug. The sealing gasket is sometimes integral to the plug, as in Jaguar OEM, and sometimes utilizes a separate O-ring or copper gasket. OEM pictured.

 

I like this section and the contributions made here. Since I've replaced this part twice, I'll make a comment. This ZF gearbox is used in several vehicles, and the filler cap is standard; you can find it at a local hydraulics shop, or even on AliExpress. By the way, the (conical) differential plugs can also be found at a hydraulics shop (and on AliExpress). All of these parts are available in galvanized steel and stainless steel (I'm worried about galvanic corrosion, but I used stainless steel).

 

While removing the door panels to repair faulty components (including replacing a lock microswitch), installing a new protective plastic film, and reinforcing worn panel elements from previous (less-than-careful) disassemblies, I noticed that one door had a speaker cover but the other didn't. Evidently, it had been lost during a workshop disassembly (or the mechanic forgot to put it back and left it as is). This cover is made of a somewhat flexible, non-rigid material. So, I decided to 3D model the existing cover and create a mirror image. Afterward, I printed both elements in TPU (the purpose of this cover, in my opinion, is to prevent water from accumulating on the back of the door speaker; in fact, the left one was in worse condition than the right).

I've included the original photo of the part, the STP files, and an image of the part printed using a wire-fed 3D printer (it's not ideal, as the lack of supports makes it look less attractive, but si

nce it's not visible, it's practical). When I have access to a powder-fed printer for layer-by-layer printing, I'll print them again (but I won't disassemble the panels until something goes wrong).

Oh, I almost forgot. Everything has been printed, now you have to cut out the area where the cables pass through (I left it as is, to later adjust the opening to the minimum necessary).

 

Hello, I received birthday wishes from the forum today. Even though it's automatic, it's appreciated. I won't go on and on praising this forum, as all of you who participate know how useful it is; let's hope it lasts a long time. Anyway, I'm now working on another additively manufactured part (it can also be made by deforming the plastic, but you have to make a mold first).
It's a rain gutter or flashing located above the headlights. I noticed it when I took them apart—the usual story—the piece was on one side and not on the other. I drew the side that was there and the mirror image for the other. I've attached the two additively manufactured pieces (if desired, you can put double-sided tape on the end that isn't fitted to the body, but it seems to be very well secured without it).
I think that little piece is responsible for water getting into the headlight. Of course, the design can be improved (perhaps with wider flanges). Instead of the STL file, I'm providing a format that can be more easily modified with a 3D design program.

 

These have been readily available for many years. Should be able to buy them at any auto audio source