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I guess this is going to be expensive.
A young lady in her small Kia crossed a junction in Hamburg the wrong way while I had the green lights.
Let's see what the calculation of the damage tells me.
So the damage has been calculated for the insurance to be about 10k€ plus Tax. Let's see what they respond as soon they awake from coma again.
Another small issue: When I noticed the sound from a leaky exhaust system, I decided to weld the improper muffler/pipe connections. This solved the problem only partly.
Yesterday I had an inspection of the flexible pipe from the right exhaust manifold back to the throttle body (what's the correct name for that?).
Seems another well known item to suffer from failing after some time of use. What are your recommendations how to fix it?
Original Jaguar Part?
Welding?
Smart Alternative?
Last edited by xkr_dougie; Jun 21, 2019 at 01:05 AM.
Reason: typos
to fix the broken EGR pipe first dry sand and degrease the entire area. find some very fine mesh steel screening. coat the pipe in high temperature epoxy, enough to hide the flexible ribs. while the epoxy is still wet, coat the steel mesh with it and then proceed to wrap the pipe as smoothly as possible with overlapping between the wraps of about 5mm. it makes sense to wrap the entire piece as preventative measure. note that one should practice the wrapping dry as it must be done in place. the hardened pipe will no longer be flexible, so removal and re installation could be difficult if the shape changes unless you can fashion an off car jig for the procedure.
Well, the reason for this accordion design is that the exhaust manifold expands/contracts with heat, whereas the throttle body does not. I would definitely check into a new part instead. Alternative is a real repair, maybe some form of brazing of the crack, leaving the rest with some flex. This pipe is supposed to bring exhaust gas into the intake in case you run lean and have excessive combustion temp. Then the valve opens and reduces the O2 content with exhaust gas. To my knowledge, this is monitored by the ECU and would likely throw a code if blocked off. Separately, disabling this feature with a plate may work against the long term health of the engine. Jaguar seem to have gone back and forth with this EGR on XK8s, and worked with the VVT as an alternative.
Also, keep in mind that this crack is another cause of air leaks, and a possible contributor to high fuel trims.
FWIW, I removed this pipe as part of the replacement of the valley hoses, and it comes off fairly easily.
I think I will give that a try. As epoxy I have here JB Weld... Datasheet states that it is suitable up to 290°C .... would you judge that enough?
Would be blanking the manifold flange a workable alternative or would that give an error from the ECU?
the temperature rating is not high enough, and the job requires something a bit more spreadable. since you are in a different market, ask a few local mechanics what type of exhaust cement they use for repairing leaks that is a two part activated product.
definite ECU error. they would never make it that easy to get rid of the system. and you could have drive-ability problems without. we discussed this at length here a while back.
i am really sorry about your door.
Last edited by CorStevens; Jun 21, 2019 at 05:34 PM.
You're right! I'll look where to find the original part at a reasonable price. Local Jaguar Dealer asks 270€ including all gaskets.
As another maintenance I cleaned the front brakes and pads today, aiming at getting rid of this horrific squeaking noise both brakes produce in city traffic.
Last edited by xkr_dougie; Jun 23, 2019 at 07:34 AM.
...while waiting for the quote from the insurance, I thought it would be good having another look at the EGR Pipe assembly... I was a bit reluctant to pay 270€ at Jaguar Krefeld and decided to investigate an alternative.
I know that some of you are interested in alternative repair methods, so here is one:
This is the problem: the somehow typical broken EGR pipe
I've chosen to replace it with the EGR Pipe from a Polo..... cost is 14€ plus Tax, BUT you need to solder a slightly bigger pipe onto the existing one as a kind of adaptor. In my case a stainless steel 22mm pipe did the job.
The clamps were fitted with exhaust mounting paste, just to be sure that everything is airtight.
Seems all good when starting the car. Will do a test ride tomorrow.
In between the insurance paid almost 10k€ for the damages and I was able to purchase a used door from a Dutch scrapyard.
Since begin of this week my XKR is now at the paintshop next door, who is also doing all the work for somewhat famous Arden (who is about 1km away from my home).
So the story isn't yet over!
I was wondering if someone has a tip where to purchase a set of Wheel Center Badges? I'm missing one and the others seem having lost a bit of the original charisma. ;-)
I guess this is going to be expensive. A young lady in her small Kia crossed a junction in Hamburg the wrong way....
Just saw this post.
In spite of having a 40-year perfect driving record, I have had 3 of my vehicles totaled in the past three years from young drivers crashing into me just like this.
Since these young drivers seem to have difficulty telling the truth about what they did, I now have dash cams installed in all of my vehicles for self defense.
As winter is approaching and the car will be on the road only including this month, I thought to refurbisch a number of things during winter:
I've got a quote from Britishparts UK
2x Front CATS R-Performance Shock Absorbers
2x Top Mounts
4x Wheel Center badge
in total of 830 EUR
Not sure if this ia a good offer, but if I already have the upper Whishbone removed, shouldn't I at the same time refurbisch the whishbone bushings?
Droplinks and Anit-Roll-Bar Bushings might also worth checking and replacing as those seem no expensive items...
What's your recommendation?
Oh yes: and the driver door panel will definitely undergo the described cosmetic surgery!
Hope you've got a heater in your garage if you're planning working on your XKR over the winter in Germany.
Anti roll bar links and bushes are easy non expensive fixes. So defintiely go for that. You're big decisions seem related to a front suspension overhaul.
Depending on your preference, many go with the PU bushes for the front end suspension bushes all round, but I immediately noticed that there was more road "noise/feel" but maybe that's because I've a very sensitive bottom! LOL
PS have you sorted out your radio deck/amp/battery drain yet, or is the 10A fuse still out?
PPS I have spare cigarette lighters as I've had to replace my ash tray module 3x. Private message me, and I'm sure we can work something out. Please bear in mind, it's a built in lit unit so some retro-fitting will be required.
