the XKR keeps going into restricted performance mode if I push it - or sometimes when I maintain 70 mph for several miles. It then goes off in a bit.
I had an earlier code checked - indicated running lean, and suggested changing the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF). The car at that point had a K&N filter on it (no housing). I replaced it with the Factory Air Box and WIX filter, but no change.
I live in Kansas City - and wonder if anyone has an ideas - or knows a good place to take it... besides the dealership. $$$$
Thanks

 

Best thing to do first is get the codes read again, and report back here.


.

 

Did you in fact change the MAF? If not then give it a darn good clean with sensor cleaner - pay particular attention to the 2 hidden sensors inside the plastic column - K&N's if over oiled can foul the MAF

 

I would also check the fuse to the intercooler aux. coolant pump---easy to do. Mine is located in the engine management fuse box which is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side up against the firewall. Check your owners manual for fuse number. If the pump isn't working it will lead to RP when the supercharger is being pushed under load. Good Luck.

 

Wow guys!! Thanks for the quick response. I'm heading for O'Reilly now to get a code read. I didn't change the MAF ($250.00) or $400 list...)
I did check the fuse earlier, but it was to the MAF, not the Intercooler aux pump. I'll go check that first.
Report back soon.
Brace

 

OK..
P0174 - System too lean - bank 2
P0171 - System too lean - bank 1

Had them clear the codes. I purchased a can of Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner, and I'm going to clean it up right now. I'll look for the two hidden areas.

The 20 Amp fuse for the Intercooler was OK.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Brace

 

Well, I removed the MAFS after disconnecting the battery - took it to the bench and sprayed it 5 times. It didn't seem dirty - but we are talking oil film here.

Went out for a drive and stayed in it well past 3000 rpm - it stumbled a bit and went on up to 6K. No light .... drove it about 10 miles, running it up and down, and discovered a lot more horsepower at higher RPMs.

It is still stumbling around 3000, but I hope that is due to the computer being used to shutting down about then. I have no idea if the plugs have been changed (72,000 miles) - or what shape they are in since the ECM hasn't let the car clean out for a long time. I'm also thinking about some fuel injector cleaner.

Last thought.... now do I put the low restriction K&N back on? Hummmm?

 

Sounds like progress to me. We all start somewhere and work our way to perfect, like that's going to happen.


Wayne

 

We are talking Jaguars here, right? Ha Ha.
Drove it to a meeting last night. Seems to be smoothing out and running better. I assume the computer is adjusting to the new readings.

thanks again for all the posts

 

If you can read your fuel trims when starting the car, that will tell you everything you need to know. For this, I use my Torque app for Android and a $15 bluetooth OBD adapter from Ebay. There are many good, technical forum threads on the subject, with a lot of input from jag techs on how they diagnose the 'both banks lean' codes.

If its lean, most find there is air getting into the engine w/o being measured. There are so many places this can happen, but live monitoring of the Short Term Fuel Trims (STFT) and a can of MAFS cleaner with one of those little straws to pinpoint the spray, can locate any air leak. Air pipe, breather hoses, throttle body gasket, EGR valve under the TB, brake booster off of the TB, missing o-ring on the oil dipstick, loose oil filler cap or the cap riser section, intake manifold bolts, and more. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the info. Since I just purchased the MASF cleaner, I'll start looking for leaks. It ran pretty well last night, but the real test will be a 30 mile drive tomorrow night.

Short Term fuel trims... I'll need to research that one. I've got an I-phone, so I'll have to see if there is an app, and check the bluetooth OBD adapter.

I really appreciate the input. The engine check light really bugs me, and the lean condition, if it is occurring, can't be a good thing.

BB

 

I justified the purchase of a used Android tablet to run the Torque app.
Tablet - $77.00 plus shipping from e-bay, blue tooth OBD adaptor - 8.50, Torque Pro - 5.99 Google play.
The tablet provides a larger screen for my old eyes and you can monitor six gauges per screen easily.
For less than $100 I have a very handy diagnostic tool available for any car.

Torque currently isn't available for the I-phone.