To sum this nightmare up, I found myself in need to refresh my valley hoses. I did not know how time consuming this job and difficult it would be on a 2000 XKR.

1.I removed the electronic throttle body assembly, it was very nasty, cleaned that.
2.Removed the EGR and tube.
3.Removed the throttle neck brackets, hoses, and neck itself, found egr passage completely clogged, cleaned it out.
4.Installed a lower degree thermostat.
5.Removed the supercharger rear bracket then bolts.
6. Something told me to take a look inside a 100k eaton I decided to tear the blower completely down clean and inspect. Found the coupler cracked, rear needle bearings with no grease and dirty,BUT THE BEARINGS ARE FINE.

7.Ordered a rebuild kit including oil for $50, had the blower ported to the same extent of a similar jaguar on a local dyno, the snout is being milled down for the 10% upper pulley,ordered the valley hoses for $19 for both on ebay, and got the norma connection I broke on the driver side from valley pipe to octopus that hold a little nipple to the throttle body coolant hose.

8.I have hot tanked and am installing a fan on my blower's heat exchanger AS WELL.

No offense but this job sucks ! ! !

 

I'm thinking of doing this during this coming winter. I am going to replace every hose on the car (93k and 15yo) and I figure despite good maintenance, the SC is probably in similar shape to yours.

That $50 rebuild kit, did you have a link?

I'm finding kits like this:

Upgraded Eaton M112 supercharger Snout Rebuild Repair Bearing Kit Coupler | eBay

 

Eaton M112 supercharger Snout Rebuild Repair Bearing Kit | eBay

There, he lowered the price for you to like $44 bucks,get yours now, members are buying them like hot cakes. I pray for Jaguar technicians,after tearing up my hands,arms and knuckles over 6 hours. Take your time and label EVERY BOLT, or find yourself in SERIOUS TROUBLE.

 

I felt the need to do the same to my 2002 XKR100 after hearing of a friends story of a under blower hose rupturing on his 2001 XJR. I had at least three times the hours in it as I thought it would take. And to make things worse,the norma connection leaked after install. Luckily I was able to give it a twist and it has not leaked since. I changed the final drive (sheared the pinion teeth) in about half the time it took to change radiator and heater hoses. Also I must have disturbed one of the hyper-sensitive emission lines and it took about three months to get it back to P1111 code.

 

I rebuilt a load of these. Did you get a solid coupler or the factory spring loaded one? I also had my rotor pack rebuilt and recoated...That was the big nut on the rebuild

 

@XxSlowpokexX... I bought a 4.0 core engine just for the supercharger. There are some chips on the coating. Who can re-coat the rotors?

 

Most folks strip the rotors and never re-coat them. It's my personal preference as well.


Can't wait to go to the dyno and see some numbers.

The exhaust work,E3 Plugs, port job,pulley and K & N, will wake this kitty up.

 

Taking the coating off reduces the tolerances and well less boost/less efficiency. If they were non coated to begin with that's a separate subject all together. Going from a non coated to coated rotor pack has always added a few ponies on the dyno. Charles Warner from Magnum Powers can hook you up with a rebuild of your rotor pack included new seals bearings and coatingThe early gen blowers had a coating as well?? I have an early gen with no coating. My later gens all had coating

 

I got a solid coupler, and its a lot more durable than what came off

For a minute, I thought I was doing something wrong until I figured you have to apply some force to get the shaft end in the three holes of the new snug fit coupler.
The oil seal was tuff as well, some tapping with a hammer and plastic seal installer got me there, so the snap ring would fit.

The machine shop charges were $50(a hour's labor) to grind the snout,press the bearings(you can do this yourself without a press)and press the 2.5 psi pulley on the shaft.
I recommend, they also press the old unit pulley off. (Don't go buying a expensive tool to do so,such a waste of time, as the machine shop had a electrical press that did this entire job in literally under 3 minutes).

 

I'm lucky that my dad is a machinist and the shop owner has no problem letting the guys do personal work after their shift is over. He can mill the snout no problem, so I might go the upgraded pulley route.

Slowpoke, your car didn't have a coating? My XJR and XKR are both early (98 and 00) so I'll wait and see.

 

The pulley upgrade was definitely worth it ! Power a little off idle to the top of midrange feels like a larger engine from the nice torque increase. 400hp is definitely there if not more!

 

Another update, after pulling the negative battery cable off the battery, then touching that to the positive terminal using a screwdriver, the car picked up a lot more power. The computer is getting better everyday I drive. You have to re learn your window positions as well. Also flushed the heat exchanger, verified the intercooler pump works, the primary and secondary fuel pumps work and the boost bypass valve functions properly! Those are vital checks you cannot skip! The car definetly has 410 + hp and pulls like a jet ! Had to turn off traction control as well.

 

I have a 2001 xkr what ae the part numbers for the hoses gaskets needed to do this job?

Thanks I'm going to rebuild the super charger so i have that kit.

Thanks

 

after going through all the hoses, valley, octopus, I don't know if I'd ever buy another Jag. Knowing the stuff that need maint work I don't want to go through all that again. ha ha

 

It's not all the parts ... it's the eye watering prices the dealers
think they are worth that hurts. And that's if it isn't NLA.

 

Yeap. I loved when I bought the radiator hoses and both were like 150 to 200 for both. Same freaking hose on others cars, even some with the same hard turns in the hose and the like, 50 bucks for both.

 

I just did my valley hoses and all other hoses in my xkr 2000. While acquiring all the parts , also bough a set of jubilee clamps ; the old fashion hose clamps not the factory tension ones. Ended re-using the factory ones fearing jubilee clamps would loose tension.

So after testing the car for a few days with no leaks today got a leak at the rear of the engine passenger side. it looks like the rear hose to the norma connector fitting but cant tell if it may be the other hose coming from the water pump( any suggestions on how to tell ?). wondering if it has to do with the clamps and if should try to replace it there in the back before tearing it all again and remove the supercharge. anybody has any suggestion or advice of using or not jubilee clamps with the valley hoses?