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5 5
To make a clamp for the steering column, I started to two blocks of 6061 aluminum.  The blocks were clamped in my milling vice and trued up.  I then drilled and tapped two holes into the block  so i could bolt them together to allow me to bore a precise hole that was perfectly split.  When the bolts are tight, the clap secures the column, when loosened, you can move the column in the clamp.
5 5 To make a clamp for the steering column, I started to two blocks of 6061 aluminum. The blocks were clamped in my milling vice and trued up. I then drilled and tapped two holes into the block so i could bolt them together to allow me to bore a precise hole that was perfectly split. When the bolts are tight, the clap secures the column, when loosened, you can move the column in the clamp.
0 2011/06/18 07:32:06 listerjag
5 6
Setting up and centering a heavy unbalanced rectangular piece in a 4-jaw chuck is always a joy.  Being a rank amateur/hobby machinist, this took me way longer than you might imagine!  Even on this 1940 ancient well-used lathe, i can still get to 0.001" of what i am trying to achieve.
5 6 Setting up and centering a heavy unbalanced rectangular piece in a 4-jaw chuck is always a joy. Being a rank amateur/hobby machinist, this took me way longer than you might imagine! Even on this 1940 ancient well-used lathe, i can still get to 0.001" of what i am trying to achieve.
0 2011/06/18 07:32:06 listerjag
5 7
Boring the hole to size on the lathe. Making sure the piece is held nice and tight so you don't shoot it across the room is paramount (don't ask me how i know!!!)
5 7 Boring the hole to size on the lathe. Making sure the piece is held nice and tight so you don't shoot it across the room is paramount (don't ask me how i know!!!)
0 2011/06/18 07:28:00 listerjag
5 8
Fresh off the lathe, the hole was perfectly split and fit the OD of the steering column exactly.
5 8 Fresh off the lathe, the hole was perfectly split and fit the OD of the steering column exactly.
0 2011/06/18 07:28:00 listerjag
5 9
Here i am milling off as much material as possible to lighten up the bracket and to achieve the overall height required to insure the bracket fit where intended.  Also, note the additional holes - the two inside holes are the clamping bolts and the outer holes are the mounting bolts to mount the bracket to the underside of the dash.
5 9 Here i am milling off as much material as possible to lighten up the bracket and to achieve the overall height required to insure the bracket fit where intended. Also, note the additional holes - the two inside holes are the clamping bolts and the outer holes are the mounting bolts to mount the bracket to the underside of the dash.
0 2011/06/18 07:28:00 listerjag
5 10
Shaping the part on the mill.
5 10 Shaping the part on the mill.
0 2011/06/18 07:23:14 listerjag
5 11
The mount was almost done.  It was plenty strong but a bit heavy.  Back to the mill to shave off some weight!
5 11 The mount was almost done. It was plenty strong but a bit heavy. Back to the mill to shave off some weight!
0 2011/06/18 07:23:14 listerjag
5 12
So, here is the final mounting bracket to hold the steering column with as much metal cut away as I felt comfortable doing w/o loosing too much integrity.  It is installed directly behind the dash and the bolts are accessible from under the dash.  It works just as designed and allows you to adjust the steering wheel position from the dash.  The sad part is that, after all of this work, you can't even see it!
5 12 So, here is the final mounting bracket to hold the steering column with as much metal cut away as I felt comfortable doing w/o loosing too much integrity. It is installed directly behind the dash and the bolts are accessible from under the dash. It works just as designed and allows you to adjust the steering wheel position from the dash. The sad part is that, after all of this work, you can't even see it!
0 2011/06/18 07:23:14 listerjag
and there it is - the elusive Lister badge, fresh off the plane from the UK!  With 6 of these, i had a lot of machining work to do.
and there it is - the elusive Lister badge, fresh off the plane from the UK! With 6 of these, i had a lot of machining work to do.
0 2011/06/05 18:32:12 listerjag
The Lister badge just did not look right on the hood.  a bit too small and it seemed to get lost on the blue.  To help accent the new badge and to make it about the same size as the Jaguar badge i was replacing, I got out the "engineers sketch book" and quickly sketched a design for an aluminum trim ring for the badge.  Here is the part, fresh off the lathe, next to the sketch
The Lister badge just did not look right on the hood. a bit too small and it seemed to get lost on the blue. To help accent the new badge and to make it about the same size as the Jaguar badge i was replacing, I got out the "engineers sketch book" and quickly sketched a design for an aluminum trim ring for the badge. Here is the part, fresh off the lathe, next to the sketch
0 2011/06/05 18:29:10 listerjag
the completed hood badge and the new horn button - ready for installation.
the completed hood badge and the new horn button - ready for installation.
0 2011/06/05 18:27:39 listerjag
the badge was bonded to the aluminum plate and then mounted in the appropriate location on the hood.
the badge was bonded to the aluminum plate and then mounted in the appropriate location on the hood.
0 2011/06/05 18:25:16 listerjag
Now to replace the horn badge - back to the lathe to turn a new horn button with the center section recessed to accept the Lister badge.  Came out pretty nice - if i say so myself!
Now to replace the horn badge - back to the lathe to turn a new horn button with the center section recessed to accept the Lister badge. Came out pretty nice - if i say so myself!
0 2011/06/05 17:00:50 listerjag
the next step in the process was to replace the "growler" center caps on the wheels.  A long afternoon at the lathe, and i had a new set of center caps complete with set screws for locking them to the wheel and a carefully recessed face that would accept the new Lister badges.
the next step in the process was to replace the "growler" center caps on the wheels. A long afternoon at the lathe, and i had a new set of center caps complete with set screws for locking them to the wheel and a carefully recessed face that would accept the new Lister badges.
0 2011/06/05 16:50:10 listerjag
so, there are the four newly assembled center caps for the wheels.
so, there are the four newly assembled center caps for the wheels.
0 2011/06/05 16:45:44 listerjag
So, with the Lister badge now solidly epoxied in the new center caps, this is how they look in the wheel.  the bit of green in the center of the wheel definitely adds some nice detail.
So, with the Lister badge now solidly epoxied in the new center caps, this is how they look in the wheel. the bit of green in the center of the wheel definitely adds some nice detail.
0 2011/06/05 16:37:27 listerjag
I machined the hub for the Lister badge with a much lower profile than the "growler" center caps.  the lower profile center caps give the center of the wheel a nice look.
I machined the hub for the Lister badge with a much lower profile than the "growler" center caps. the lower profile center caps give the center of the wheel a nice look.
0 2011/06/05 16:37:27 listerjag
So, here is the engine in all of its component pieces.  I would love to take credit for it but, Turnkey Engines in Oceanside California built it for me.  We met several time throughout the process, i provided specs and goals for the engine, and they handled the specialty machining, powdercoating, final assembly, and dyno testing and tuning.  A great group of guys to work with!
So, here is the engine in all of its component pieces. I would love to take credit for it but, Turnkey Engines in Oceanside California built it for me. We met several time throughout the process, i provided specs and goals for the engine, and they handled the specialty machining, powdercoating, final assembly, and dyno testing and tuning. A great group of guys to work with!
0 2011/05/14 09:44:06 listerjag
Here is one of the heads and the crank back from machining.
Here is one of the heads and the crank back from machining.
0 2011/05/14 09:43:46 listerjag
both fully assembled heads with titanium valves, retainers, keepers and Chevrolet racing valving springs.
both fully assembled heads with titanium valves, retainers, keepers and Chevrolet racing valving springs.
0 2011/05/14 09:43:46 listerjag
The LS7 is a beautiful engine - its all aluminum block with steel sleeves is an incredible piece and is very strong and light weight.  This shows the freshly honed cylinders enlarged from 7.1 liters to 7.2 liters to accommodate Mahle light weight racing pistons.
The LS7 is a beautiful engine - its all aluminum block with steel sleeves is an incredible piece and is very strong and light weight. This shows the freshly honed cylinders enlarged from 7.1 liters to 7.2 liters to accommodate Mahle light weight racing pistons.
0 2011/05/14 09:43:46 listerjag
and the best part...4-bolt mains right from the factory.  we did nothing to the mains, crank, or forged rods other than install Chevrolet racing bearings throughout.
and the best part...4-bolt mains right from the factory. we did nothing to the mains, crank, or forged rods other than install Chevrolet racing bearings throughout.
0 2011/05/14 09:43:07 listerjag
Now, with the engine and all of its ancillary parts from Turnkey, we were ready to begin the process of putting the drive train in the car.  Here is the engine after we installed the wiring harness, plugs, wires, accessories, motor mounts, and everything else to prepare it for the chassis.
Now, with the engine and all of its ancillary parts from Turnkey, we were ready to begin the process of putting the drive train in the car. Here is the engine after we installed the wiring harness, plugs, wires, accessories, motor mounts, and everything else to prepare it for the chassis.
0 2011/05/14 09:43:07 listerjag
Next went on the light weight flywheel…at 11 lbs, it was only 1/3 the weight of the Z06 iron flywheel.  This flywheel was machined to accept a small diameter, dual disk, racing clutch.  We also had to assembled the shifter mechanism on the Tremac T-600 5-speed transmission:
Next went on the light weight flywheel…at 11 lbs, it was only 1/3 the weight of the Z06 iron flywheel. This flywheel was machined to accept a small diameter, dual disk, racing clutch. We also had to assembled the shifter mechanism on the Tremac T-600 5-speed transmission:
0 2011/05/14 09:43:07 listerjag
Here we are finishing up on the shifter adjustments.  In the box you can see the dual disc, light weight racing clutch.  Hard to believe that little 7” clutch would handle over 600 HP!
Here we are finishing up on the shifter adjustments. In the box you can see the dual disc, light weight racing clutch. Hard to believe that little 7” clutch would handle over 600 HP!
0 2011/05/14 09:42:29 listerjag
Finally finished!  the engine is complete and ready for the trans.  Flywheel and pressure plate have all been carefully torqued and double checked.  With so little rotational inertia at the crank, this big V8 should rev like an F-1 engine!  ok, maybe not quite like an F-1 engine but, it ought to be quite responsive.
Finally finished! the engine is complete and ready for the trans. Flywheel and pressure plate have all been carefully torqued and double checked. With so little rotational inertia at the crank, this big V8 should rev like an F-1 engine! ok, maybe not quite like an F-1 engine but, it ought to be quite responsive.
0 2011/05/14 09:42:29 listerjag
Now the fun part…the hydraulic throw out bearing had to be shimmed just right or it wouldn’t work.  Also, since you now have TWO clutch plates in the dual disc set up…it is twice the fun to try to get it aligned for the input shaft.  Let’s just say that this was an afternoon of expletives.  It took way longer than it should to mate the engine and trans thanks to the dual disc set up.  Here are all of the “bits” we were messing with that day:
Now the fun part…the hydraulic throw out bearing had to be shimmed just right or it wouldn’t work. Also, since you now have TWO clutch plates in the dual disc set up…it is twice the fun to try to get it aligned for the input shaft. Let’s just say that this was an afternoon of expletives. It took way longer than it should to mate the engine and trans thanks to the dual disc set up. Here are all of the “bits” we were messing with that day:
0 2011/05/14 09:42:29 listerjag
So, there it is, already for installation.  Here is my brother chatting with Luke, the owner of the company who produces the Lister replicas, who is explaining the "simple" technique of “slipping” the engine and trans into the body shell:

Piece of cake - lets get started!
So, there it is, already for installation. Here is my brother chatting with Luke, the owner of the company who produces the Lister replicas, who is explaining the "simple" technique of “slipping” the engine and trans into the body shell: Piece of cake - lets get started!
0 2011/05/14 09:41:41 listerjag
STOP!  Time to back up.  Now we had to get the chassis ready - just when we had so much momentum going for us from completing the drive train.  

So, first thing to do was to take the hood back off the car again and to install the aluminum firewall
STOP! Time to back up. Now we had to get the chassis ready - just when we had so much momentum going for us from completing the drive train. So, first thing to do was to take the hood back off the car again and to install the aluminum firewall
0 2011/05/14 09:41:41 listerjag
Here is the fire wall all screwed and glued in place….used about 100 stainless steel aircraft button head machine screws…

This would be impossible to do with the engine in place.
Here is the fire wall all screwed and glued in place….used about 100 stainless steel aircraft button head machine screws… This would be impossible to do with the engine in place.
0 2011/05/14 09:41:41 listerjag
Wow, clean and shiny!  Also VERY empty looking.  Boy was this easy to push around!!  Next we covered the aluminum with a sticky thick plastic to protect the finish:
Wow, clean and shiny! Also VERY empty looking. Boy was this easy to push around!! Next we covered the aluminum with a sticky thick plastic to protect the finish:
0 2011/05/14 09:40:57 listerjag
Ok, back on track and the excitement is definitely ramping up.  So, here we go…with a little help from an old engine crane and some grunting from little bro…we started “slipping” the engine and trans into the chassis.  You can tell how joyous and event this was from the big grin on my bro's face...LOL  Piece of cake…not…
Ok, back on track and the excitement is definitely ramping up. So, here we go…with a little help from an old engine crane and some grunting from little bro…we started “slipping” the engine and trans into the chassis. You can tell how joyous and event this was from the big grin on my bro's face...LOL Piece of cake…not…
0 2011/05/14 09:40:57 listerjag
As you can see, it was a very tight fit and nowhere near as easy as it sounded the day before.  At this point, we were both really wondering if it was really going to fit!
As you can see, it was a very tight fit and nowhere near as easy as it sounded the day before. At this point, we were both really wondering if it was really going to fit!
0 2011/05/14 09:40:57 listerjag
But, with a lot of grunting and muscling the assembly around, it did in fact fit quite nicely.  Note just how far back the engine and trans sit in the chassis.  this is one if the major reasons the car handles so well and actually has a rear weight bias.
But, with a lot of grunting and muscling the assembly around, it did in fact fit quite nicely. Note just how far back the engine and trans sit in the chassis. this is one if the major reasons the car handles so well and actually has a rear weight bias.
0 2011/05/14 09:40:22 listerjag
Now we had to hook the crane back on the engine to adjust its location and to allow us leverage to install the motor mount bolts.  that was actually a tough job.  it took the better part of 2 hours to get everything aligned just right so we could slip the two engine mount bolts and two trans mount bolts into place.  This is actually a very precise fitting chassis and engine set up.
Now we had to hook the crane back on the engine to adjust its location and to allow us leverage to install the motor mount bolts. that was actually a tough job. it took the better part of 2 hours to get everything aligned just right so we could slip the two engine mount bolts and two trans mount bolts into place. This is actually a very precise fitting chassis and engine set up.
0 2011/05/14 09:40:22 listerjag
Little bro doing the honers and installing the drivers side motor mount bolt while i "supervised and directed".  LOL
Little bro doing the honers and installing the drivers side motor mount bolt while i "supervised and directed". LOL
0 2011/05/14 09:40:01 listerjag
Being our last day at the shop before returning to our respective homes and work, we did not stop working until the next morning.…we even got the oil tank mounted, the drive shaft and u-joints installed, and started routing the wiring harness and the fuel line.  

So, that is the drive train story.  One more long weekend in So. California and the car would be ready to transport to my brothers place in No. California where we would attack the body.
Being our last day at the shop before returning to our respective homes and work, we did not stop working until the next morning.…we even got the oil tank mounted, the drive shaft and u-joints installed, and started routing the wiring harness and the fuel line. So, that is the drive train story. One more long weekend in So. California and the car would be ready to transport to my brothers place in No. California where we would attack the body.
0 2011/05/14 09:38:58 listerjag
During the first fit of the trunk lid, i discovered that the gas strut, while easily attached to the aluminum hinge, had no place to attach to the body.  Rather than bend up a kludgey metal tab, and since any "billet aluminum" parts are always revered by all, i decided to design and build a "simple" strut mount.  While a nice diversion from the true task at hand, like everything else i do, it took way more time than i thought!  After i made the sketches, i started with my little billet piece.
During the first fit of the trunk lid, i discovered that the gas strut, while easily attached to the aluminum hinge, had no place to attach to the body. Rather than bend up a kludgey metal tab, and since any "billet aluminum" parts are always revered by all, i decided to design and build a "simple" strut mount. While a nice diversion from the true task at hand, like everything else i do, it took way more time than i thought! After i made the sketches, i started with my little billet piece.
0 2011/05/14 08:53:23 listerjag
The first step is to true up a block of aluminum, measure and drill mounting holes and cut the initial flanges.
The first step is to true up a block of aluminum, measure and drill mounting holes and cut the initial flanges.
0 2011/05/14 08:53:23 listerjag
Next, it is time to start shaping the bracket – some creative clamping is sometimes needed to keep from flinging the piece across the garage (ask me how I know that!!).  Then some lightening slots to keep it from weighing the back of the car down:
Next, it is time to start shaping the bracket – some creative clamping is sometimes needed to keep from flinging the piece across the garage (ask me how I know that!!). Then some lightening slots to keep it from weighing the back of the car down:
0 2011/05/14 08:52:43 listerjag
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