Go Back   Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum > Jaguar Models ( Modern ) > S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search

S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 1999 - 2008

Welcome to Jaguar Forums!
Welcome to JaguarForums.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Jaguar Forums community today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 09-14-2009, 04:02 PM
Nazz300's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Overheating problem

I have a 2000 S type 4.0 with 48K miles. Just recently I have had intermittent problems with the temp gauge rising to HOT and the check engine light comes on, after I turn off the a/c it slowly goes back to normal. I'll turn the a/c back on after a couple of minutes and then it is fine reading in the normal range. It happens about twice a week. It can run fine for a few days and then it happens again. The coolant level is fine, and I can find no leaks. I had it hooked up to a hand held computer at Autozone and it said PASS. There were no codes that came up.

The car never actually overheats but the gauge slowly rises to the red until I turn the a/c off, then the needle slowly drops back to normal. I live 60 miles from the nearest Jaguar dealership and I'm afraid to drive it more than an hour to have it checked out.

Has anyone had or know of this problem? Thanks, Nazz
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-14-2009, 04:16 PM
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Yorkshire, England
Posts: 12,999
Thanked 1,390 Times in 1,282 Posts
Default

Does your engine fan come on OK? In case you don't know - be very careful when checking as rotating machinery is dangerous (apologies if you do know).

You're right to be worried. And to be cautious about driving it. I'm not so sure how worried or cautious you should be but others will probably comment.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-14-2009, 04:36 PM
Member

 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 96
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
wsweismann
Default

Bad thermostat
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-14-2009, 04:44 PM
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Home
Posts: 2,814
Thanked 463 Times in 413 Posts
Default

First if there is a check engine light go get the codes read at AutoZone. It's telling you what the problem is.

I would agree to change the thermostat AND the coolant. It's way over due!! Check that you don't have air trapped in the cooling system or that your degas bottle is cracked. Both common problems.

Also be aware that the car uses a hydraulic cooling fan. As this gets older they sometimes slow down and this reduces the air the fan can move.

Finally the CHT (Cylinder Head Temperature) sensor can also cause false overheating. Can you tell if the engine is really getting hot or not?

But first get the codes and post back on what you find.
.
.
.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-14-2009, 05:56 PM
Nazz300's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

The actual message says HIGH ENGINE TEMPERATURE. When I had it tested at Autozone it said PASS. No codes were present.

I drove it again just about an hour ago around town with a/c going and the HIGH ENG TEMP came on again after 5 minutes with the needle in the red. I decided not to switch the a/c off as I felt that the car was actually not hot. After a couple of minutes the needle went back to normal and that was that. When the car said HET I noticed that the a/c had been blowing warmer and as soon as it leveled out (approx. 3 minutes) the a/c was cold as ice.

The fan comes on when I switch the a/c on and goes off when I switch it off. I noticed when I was stopped at a red light there was some fan noise and then 2 minutes later that's when it got hot. Not sure what that is.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-14-2009, 09:06 PM
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Home
Posts: 2,814
Thanked 463 Times in 413 Posts
Default

Good trouble shooting!! If you can hear the fan noise increase that is good. Because that means the ECM has commanded the fan to increase it's speed due to engine temperature. The warm AC is again the computer adjusting things because it thinks the engine is over heating.

So I think you have a air bubble in the coolant. Have you added any coolant or done any service to the cooling system? Do you know how to bleed the air out of the cooling system? Close to the brake master cylinder you need to look for a hose that just ends and on the end it has a slot for a screw driver.
In the attached picture the hose should be to the left of the yellow brake cylinder cap.
.
.
.
Attached Thumbnails
Overheating problem-strut-tower-caps-2003-s-type-r.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-14-2009, 11:07 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rld14 View Post
Bad thermostat
I agree
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-15-2009, 12:39 AM
Norri's Avatar
Photobucket
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
Posts: 51,585
Thanked 2,578 Times in 2,393 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbird6 View Post
Good trouble shooting!! If you can hear the fan noise increase that is good. Because that means the ECM has commanded the fan to increase it's speed due to engine temperature. The warm AC is again the computer adjusting things because it thinks the engine is over heating.

So I think you have a air bubble in the coolant. Have you added any coolant or done any service to the cooling system? Do you know how to bleed the air out of the cooling system? Close to the brake master cylinder you need to look for a hose that just ends and on the end it has a slot for a screw driver.
In the attached picture the hose should be to the left of the yellow brake cylinder cap.
.
.
.
We are talking about the engine cooling fan and not the heater fan aren't we?
__________________
2003 S Type V6
2005 XK8



Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-15-2009, 09:57 AM
Nazz300's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Hi, thanks for all the responses. Yes, we are talking about the engine cooling fan.

I have not added any coolant or done any service to the cooling system. I do not know how to bleed the air out of the cooling system, but I'm sure I can do it. Once I locate the hose then what?

On a side note: In my haste I went to pop off the plastic cover over the coolant reservoir and broke 2 plastic clips as they were very brittle. I tried to put them back but they won't hold. Does anyone know where I can find these? (See attachment)

Also, if I decide to replace the thermostat, it calls for coolant WSS-M97B44-D. Is DEX-COOL equivalent or should I not use?
Attached Thumbnails
Overheating problem-graphic1.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-15-2009, 10:19 AM
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Home
Posts: 2,814
Thanked 463 Times in 413 Posts
Default

The clips can be found at any Ford dealer. They are the same as the Lincoln LS and are used in the identical position. Remember to push down on the center to release the clip. Then when the clip is removed push the center piece back up where it's sticking above the surround. Then install the clip this way. Finally to seat the clip just push the center pin back down until it "snaps" in place. People break these by prying or pulling.

You don't need to remove that piece to add coolant? I guess you could if you wanted too but it is not necessary?

To bleed the air from the cooling system.
First get the engine up to temperature and then leave the car running. When you find the hose I talked about in the previous post with the slot for the screw driver. Just back out the slotted plastic piece until coolant comes out. If you have an air bubble it should whoosh out a bit before the fluid starts to come out. After doing it the first time you will be able to do it in seconds. Be aware that it usually is a good idea to bleed it several times over several days. Just to be sure!!
.
.
.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-15-2009, 10:52 AM
Nazz300's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for the tip tbird. I'll check with my Ford dealer for the clips. Any thought on the coolant? I was told not to use DEX-COOL.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-15-2009, 11:59 AM
phd12volt's Avatar
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 1,146
Thanked 48 Times in 39 Posts
Send a message via Yahoo to phd12volt
Default

change your thermostat, and the coolant is good for around 150,000 miles. or 10 years. i do believe. You should have the orange coolant right?
Prestone Orange long Life Antifreeze=14.99 for 1 gallon at Pep Boys is what i used
__________________
Jason from MTV's "Pimp my Ride"

2003 Jag STR "SOLD"
2010 VW MK6 GTI w/DSG "Black"

Last edited by phd12volt; 09-15-2009 at 12:03 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-15-2009, 02:43 PM
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Home
Posts: 2,814
Thanked 463 Times in 413 Posts
Default

Be sure and use the correct coolant. Jaguar made a change and I don't remember what year it was. My 2005 STR does use the orange color Dex-cool. But just read the coolant jug and make sure the spec you posted (WSS-M97B44-D) is on the jug. If it is not then it is not the correct coolant. I think this is the same as my wife’s 2003 Lincoln LS. I had some problem finding this but you can always go any Ford dealer to get the correct fluids.

I don't let my coolant or oil go as long as the factory says. I do my own service so I change the oil about every 7K miles and coolant is changed at least every 4 years. I will have the transmission serviced by the dealer as it is a bit much for a shade tree mechanic!! I already have changed the P/S fluid but got the squeaking steering fixed with the additive and will not mess with from now on.
.
.
.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-15-2009, 04:16 PM
Nazz300's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for the input guys. I think I'll just go ahead and change the thermostat and put in the Prestone Orange Long Life Antifreeze. I just went to Advance Auto Parts and they had it - $13.99. I read the label and it said it meets WSS-M97B44-D which is what my 2000 S-Type calls for.

I am a bit skeptical of the thermostat from the auto parts stores. I saw an OEM Jaguar thermostat on eBay for less than $50. Do you think I'll be OK with the "off the shelf brand" for around $15.99?

I figure for around $30 - $65 DIY opposed to $400 that the dealer wants is money well spent even if it doesn't fix my HET problem.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-15-2009, 04:33 PM
phd12volt's Avatar
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 1,146
Thanked 48 Times in 39 Posts
Send a message via Yahoo to phd12volt
Default

my thermostat was 13.99 at pep boys...........seems to be the same thing i took out of mine. And it was the one that came with the car. stant makes them on an OEM level also from what i was told
__________________
Jason from MTV's "Pimp my Ride"

2003 Jag STR "SOLD"
2010 VW MK6 GTI w/DSG "Black"
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 09-22-2009, 08:09 PM
Nazz300's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

OK... Finally changed out the thermostat. It's been raining here every day for the past week. I needed to do it outside so I finally saw the sun and went for it. It was actually easier than I thought. After I buttoned it back up I took it for a spin and found no leaks. Had to add a bit more fluid and topped it off. Went for another spin and within 2 minutes the gauge crept up to HOT and the Hot Engine Temp warning came on. Turned off the a/c and slowly the gauge went back to normal. I turned the a/c back on and it ran normal for ten minutes until I came back home and parked it. Checked the fluid level and it was good. No leaks from underneath.

So now I am back to square one. At least it only cost me around $35 bucks compared to the dealers $400 to change the thermostat and fluid. But now I still don't know what is wrong. The fan seems to be working properly as it sat idling in the driveway for about 10 minutes the cooling fan came on.

Any suggestions?
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 09-22-2009, 09:36 PM
poboyblues's Avatar
Photobucket
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 136
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

You may have a blown head gasket Nazz. The 4.0 will blow the gaskets if overheated. We have no idea how hot the engine has actually got, but if you changed the thermostat, and she still overheats, I'd have that checked. If that gauge has hit the red, she's overheated. That's why it's red over there, and also why you got the message of high temperature. I've rarely seen a clogged radiator, especially low mileage cars.

Also the 4.0 DOES NOT have a cylinder head temp sensor, only the 3.0L has that. The 4.0 uses a temp sensor located in the bypass pipe assy for ECM feedback during warm up and running, and also it is used for engine temp transmitted to the gauge.

One more thing, these things are a pain to bleed the air out of. I use a coolant system vacuum bleeder/coolant filler on these beasts. It is hooked to the coolant reservoir, then air is supplied to the mechanism, by hitting the button on the unit, it uses a venturi effect to suck out the air from the system. You will see the hoses collapse as air is removed putting the system in a vacuum. Then hook the other "fill" hose into a fresh gallon of coolant/water mix, turn valve and watch the show......coolant being sucked into your cooling system. Very good tool, and can be had at most good tool depots. Snap On, Matco, and Mac tools all make them, and you can order them on their websites. A must if you ask me. And they can be used on any car.
__________________
20 yr. Dealer Master Tech
Let the stoning begin!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 09-23-2009, 02:32 AM
phd12volt's Avatar
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 1,146
Thanked 48 Times in 39 Posts
Send a message via Yahoo to phd12volt
Default

did you bleed the coolant system afterwards??????
__________________
Jason from MTV's "Pimp my Ride"

2003 Jag STR "SOLD"
2010 VW MK6 GTI w/DSG "Black"
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 09-23-2009, 09:41 AM
Nazz300's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I opened the slotted plastic piece on the tube when the engine got up to temperature. Coolant was coming out and I screwed it back in. I'm either doing something wrong or I need to get a vacuum bleeder/coolant filler that poboy was talking about.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 09-25-2009, 10:54 AM
Nazz300's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I was reading in another post where the coolant system is temperamental and it sometimes takes 2-3 days to totally bleed or burp the system. So I decided to try it again. I let the car get up to normal operating temperature with the a/c blowing and opened the valve and I could see where a bit of air escaped before the coolant started to drip.

If I only re-read tbird6 saying... "Be aware that it usually is a good idea to bleed it several times over several days. Just to be sure!!"

That was the trick
. No more overheating. I let the car sit idling in the driveway for about 15 minutes. Then I took it for a spin around town for another half hour and the temp gauge never moved from its normal straight up and down position.Thanks to everyone for their input. Problem solved.


Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2009, 10:54 AM
 
 
 
Reply



Tags
2000, 2006, air, bleed, bubble, collapse, coolant, cooling, hose, jaguar, lincoln, ls, m97b44, overheats, prestone, screws, system, wss



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:51 AM.

Copyright © 2010 Internet Brands, Inc. All rights reserved.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.
JAGUAR and its logo are the registered trademarks of Jaguar Cars Limited. Jaguar Cars Limited is not affiliated with JaguarForums.com.