The title says it all, but I'll give a quick backstory anyway.

Since I've got the XJR running, I've been dealing with a noisy fuel pump, esp at idle and under low load, so when there's not much fuel flowing. I've figured it's just the pump giving up the ghost, so a new pump is on the short list for things to do after my big tire purchase. I was inspecting the rear suspension and decided to look around at the fuel lines as well, get an idea of how difficult it will be to get to those quick disconnects, as well as an idea of where the fuel filter was.

As I was doing so, I found a fuel line which was kinked pretty bad, almost at a right angle.


This looks like the section of line that goes between the fuel tank and the fuel filter. I found a part number online, NNA6082AH "Fuel Feed Pipe." Looked it up, almost $100 for just that tank to fuel filter section of line...

Now I'd like to think just moving the steel section back to where it's supposed to be will straighten that bit out, however I'd do that, but I've got a feeling it won't be that easy. I know the "right answer" would be to just buy a new line, but...

If I do end up needing to replace that section, is it possible to "repair" the line by reusing the steel line and installing a new flexible section? Taking the pipe out is pretty labor intensive already, and part pictures are pretty vague, so I'm hoping someone's had it out enough to know if it's possible.

 

There is you r answer for a noisy pump....Pressure fighting against the crimped fuel line!!
How in blazes did that happen??
This obviously was before your ownership ;o]
Try and starighten it and it will snap, it's that type of metal which with such a bad kink is stuffed.
Bight the bullet and pay for new pipe....it will be cheaper in the
long run ;o]

 

That is the result of someone trying to replace the fuel pump without disconnecting the lines under the tank.

Dragging the tank into the boot area bends the lines.

I think the line you need is NLA from Jaguar. Salvage yard is the way to go.

bob

 

I'd just add that you may want to plan on dropping the rear suspension as this is a really tight area on a good day and being able to see what you're doing for the replacement will be a major advantage. I haven't dropped the suspension but others say it's not as bad as you might expect...

 

That's what I needed to know, wasn't sure if the bent section was plastic like the coolant lines, or just another steel section. If it's steel then yeah, probably not repairable.

The line resistance causing noise is definitely something that came to mind. With the cost of a fuel pump being so cheap, and having to do most of the same prep work dropping subframe to do the line as the tank, I may just put a new primary pump in to be safe.

There is a couple x308's at the local junkyard, I'll need to check when I get free time. At least it'll get me some practice dropping a subframe that isn't mine. I've got the fuel tank repair write up from large files here, and read through JTIS, it actually doesn't look too terrible. Might get a chance to try at the end of the week if there's no rain.

 

The problem with salvage yards is that they tend to grab the tank and 'HORSE' it out the same way someone did yours to bend the lines in the first place!!!!

If you can convince them to undo the lines properly, you might have a chance at getting some usable parts.

bob

 

My local yard is a pick and pull so I'd be the one pulling my own parts. Just have to hope the ones there are in a condition worth pulling, and be careful that I don't drop the subframe on my head.

 

You could use a variant of Motorcarman's method at the pick and pull.

Just undo the front of the subframe at the bushings and reef it downwards
for access.

 

Got one at the yard today, that seemed good. Bit of surface rust on the steel parts but I think some sanding and rust protector rattle canning will make it good. I did end up dropping the subframe quick and dirty. So, with wheels already off, pulled the front bushing mounts and big bushing bolts out, and took out the upper rear truss bolts as well. Didn't bother with pulling calipers or driveshaft or anything like that... Didn't have a way to bring a jack in, so I dropped it on a stack of a couple wheels I found lying around. I'd say it dropped down maybe 3 inches.

This gave me enough clearance to get the fuel filter nut completely off. The last interference there was the exhaust pipe, I just worked around it but pulling the mount on the drivers side would make it much easier to "do it right." Leaked maybe a gallon of fuel onto the ground out of the engine side lines, oh well. Ended up unbolting the strut turret on the nondrive side, which dropped the strut and things on that side a couple more inches. This allowed me to actually reach my hand all the way up to the quick disconnects and pull the line out there. Came right out afterwards.

I might upload a picture of the new line later, but the "bad" section of pipe in my original picture is actually hard plastic sheathed in the rubber protection, coupled to the steel lines on either side. The way it's designed doesn't look serviceable at all. You might be able to cut the plastic out and frankenstein some new fuel line onto the steel bits, but it's probably one of those things that's not worth the risk and hassle.

Even if I do end up getting a new line, the few bucks at the junkyard was worth the learning experience, as usual. Plus, I got a free roof console mount microphone, for a hopeful bluetooth phone retrofit in the distant future. Including wandering around and taking some interior stuff apart to get the mic and disassembling the phone unit trying to find a pinout, 1.5 hours to do all this.