XJS Hood Cable (Latch to Handle) Replacement
#1
XJS Hood Cable (Latch to Handle) Replacement
Does anyone have any experience changing the hood cable that is between the drivers side hood latch and the lever underneath the passenger dash? Mine snapped when closing the hood right at the handle. I have a replacement ordered.
Any guidance or tips would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Any guidance or tips would be appreciated.
Thanks!
#2
Does anyone have any experience changing the hood cable that is between the drivers side hood latch and the lever underneath the passenger dash? Mine snapped when closing the hood right at the handle. I have a replacement ordered.
Any guidance or tips would be appreciated.
Any guidance or tips would be appreciated.
The lever end of the cable does not have a nipple, it fits into a 'solderless nipple' on the lever mechanism (ie a hole with a small screw that traps the cable enabling it to be adjusted to the correct length). Beware of installing it so the cable is too tight when latched, as that will break it again in a short time.
The entire mechanism, including the two latches on the firewall, should move quite easily when used on its own without the hood being closed. If it does not, then the tension on the cable that runs across the firewall to activate the second latch can be adjusted a bit using the same solderless nipple arrangement - this time on the solderless nipple on the lever-activated latch that connects to the other latch across the firewall.
The following users liked this post:
Roger Simpson (01-02-2024)
#3
The only real difficulty is getting the new cable threaded though the firewall (bulkhead). It is best to remove the trim below the dash so you can see what is what. You may also need to remove whatever is on top of the latch itself in the engine bay (the washer bottle on my model) so you can get to the latch to install the cable nipple into it.
The lever end of the cable does not have a nipple, it fits into a 'solderless nipple' on the lever mechanism (ie a hole with a small screw that traps the cable enabling it to be adjusted to the correct length). Beware of installing it so the cable is too tight when latched, as that will break it again in a short time.
The entire mechanism, including the two latches on the firewall, should move quite easily when used on its own without the hood being closed. If it does not, then the tension on the cable that runs across the firewall to activate the second latch can be adjusted a bit using the same solderless nipple arrangement - this time on the solderless nipple on the lever-activated latch that connects to the other latch across the firewall.
The lever end of the cable does not have a nipple, it fits into a 'solderless nipple' on the lever mechanism (ie a hole with a small screw that traps the cable enabling it to be adjusted to the correct length). Beware of installing it so the cable is too tight when latched, as that will break it again in a short time.
The entire mechanism, including the two latches on the firewall, should move quite easily when used on its own without the hood being closed. If it does not, then the tension on the cable that runs across the firewall to activate the second latch can be adjusted a bit using the same solderless nipple arrangement - this time on the solderless nipple on the lever-activated latch that connects to the other latch across the firewall.
The following users liked this post:
Roger Simpson (01-02-2024)
#4
Awesome thanks for the reply. I don't believe there is anything blocking mine and it looks like the best course of action will be to remove the hood latch assembly on the drivers side, remove the old cable, feed the new cable, attach it at the lever end, and finally adjust. Does this sound about right?
Good hunting
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 10-11-2012 at 12:53 PM.
#5
#6
It was only about a 1/3 of the way shut when the cable snapped. Immediately after I pulled the hood open with my hands.
#7
Greg
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#8
#9
On my 1993 when you push the handle forward (away from you) it releases the tension on the cable and then the hood latches spring open. When you pull it back towards you the cable pulls the latches closed and the hood down and shut.
The following 2 users liked this post by scrible:
afterburner1 (07-22-2014),
RagJag (10-13-2012)
#10
#11
#12
The resistance I feel when releasing the lever (by pushing it in my case) is the resistence of pushing the lever 'over centre'. This is how the lever mechanism stays in the shut position, it goes over-centre, so the cable tension is effectively pulling the lever shut still. If it did not then the hood would pop open as soon as you let go of the lever, or unless a secondary lever-locking mechanism was installed.
If you lock your hood by pushing the lever away from you, then it is just the lever mechanism is reversed, but otherwise identical. If the hood locks some other way (eg by slamming it shut as on most cars) then you really do have a different mechanism.
Greg
#13
#14
Greg
#15
Yes, goodness knows and aparently nobody else. I have to push down on the hood one corner at a time to get the latches to engage. They are spring loaded with a catch to lock them. Pulling the cable by the underdash lever unlatches them. I would have thought someone, by now, would have had a cable break or slip loose and been forced to devise a way to get the hood open.
I am tempted to purchase a set of latches that have keys to unlock them as some custom cars do. Neat chrome ones without the post sticking up with a cotter key-like thing as race cars use.
I will probably wait until it is too late though. If it ain't broke don't fix it deal.
RagJag
I am tempted to purchase a set of latches that have keys to unlock them as some custom cars do. Neat chrome ones without the post sticking up with a cotter key-like thing as race cars use.
I will probably wait until it is too late though. If it ain't broke don't fix it deal.
RagJag
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Roger Simpson (01-02-2024)
#16
My first thought was what happens if the cable slips out of the actuator? To correct this fault, Hardware stores sell various size metal stops that are about 1/2X1/4 that have two holes. You slip the excess cable through one hole and do a 180 degree reverse and put the cable in the second hole. Then squeeze it shut with vice grips (Squeezing may not be necessary) Total time for fix a couple of minutes'
If you are really concerned, a backup cable similar to gas tank door might be in order
If you are really concerned, a backup cable similar to gas tank door might be in order
Last edited by afterburner1; 07-12-2014 at 08:42 AM.
#17
As mentioned, the late XJS bonnet release mechanism is quite different. The best solution thst I've seen as to open the bonnet if the cable snaps is by undoing the bonnet from the front and then releasing the pin plates from the rear. See here:
http://forums.jag-lovers.org/av.php?1658669o33
Paul
http://forums.jag-lovers.org/av.php?1658669o33
Paul
Last edited by ptjs1; 07-07-2014 at 04:43 PM.
#18
i think i mentioned this in a previous post, but...
on my '91 pre-facelift XJS, the cable that goes from the engine compartment into the footwell snapped. (my use of the handle was a little too vigorous)
i replaced the cable with a bicylce spoke.
i cut the bent end off of the spoke with a set of snippers,
squeezed a bit of jb weld onto the threaded end (to keep the end piece from unscrewing itself),
slid the cut end into the hole in the engine compartment,
pulled it taught with pliers in the footwell,
and screwed it tight into the handle mechanism.
cheapest fix on the car to date.
on my '91 pre-facelift XJS, the cable that goes from the engine compartment into the footwell snapped. (my use of the handle was a little too vigorous)
i replaced the cable with a bicylce spoke.
i cut the bent end off of the spoke with a set of snippers,
squeezed a bit of jb weld onto the threaded end (to keep the end piece from unscrewing itself),
slid the cut end into the hole in the engine compartment,
pulled it taught with pliers in the footwell,
and screwed it tight into the handle mechanism.
cheapest fix on the car to date.
The following users liked this post:
afterburner1 (10-07-2014)
#20
For: DrScientist
Great Idea!
I understand the consept, but am confused on the execution. You get a bicycle spoke ; one end is bent and you cut the bend off. The other end has an adjustment thread. You take the cut end and thread it through the latch and then into the cabin to the handle. The screw end is up on the latch.
This is where I need the help. 1. How did you attach it to the handle? 2. Did you use a cable stop on the handle end?
Great Idea!
I understand the consept, but am confused on the execution. You get a bicycle spoke ; one end is bent and you cut the bend off. The other end has an adjustment thread. You take the cut end and thread it through the latch and then into the cabin to the handle. The screw end is up on the latch.
This is where I need the help. 1. How did you attach it to the handle? 2. Did you use a cable stop on the handle end?