V12 coolant crossover pipe
#1
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#2
#3
#4
Cathouse Spares in Australia was the name of the Co. that sold a stainless crossover pipe & overflow tank. I don't know if their still around anymore though. My stock pipe & tank never had any issues after 25yrs. I do remember the SS pipe & tank + S&H were very expensive. Personally I'd just replace mine with OEM. That would give me another 25yrs
Lawrence
Lawrence
#5
Cathouse Spares in Australia was the name of the Co. that sold a stainless crossover pipe & overflow tank. I don't know if their still around anymore though. My stock pipe & tank never had any issues after 25yrs. I do remember the SS pipe & tank + S&H were very expensive. Personally I'd just replace mine with OEM. That would give me another 25yrs
Lawrence
Lawrence
Greg
#6
If only, Lawrence, they at NLA. For the OP, I think that the best thing is to get a decent one from a breaker and then rust protect it as well as possible. The Great Palm book mentions it is possible to fabricate one out of copper tube and fittings, but it does need expert brazing ability.
Greg
Greg
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&so...2SBmD26h_Nbh4A
Last edited by Paul_59; 05-24-2016 at 02:21 AM.
#7
If only, Lawrence, they at NLA. For the OP, I think that the best thing is to get a decent one from a breaker and then rust protect it as well as possible. The Great Palm book mentions it is possible to fabricate one out of copper tube and fittings, but it does need expert brazing ability.
Greg
Greg
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...CAMWl9e-9KmEdA
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#8
They are still available but they are over here and not cheap.
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...CAMWl9e-9KmEdA
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...CAMWl9e-9KmEdA
#9
They are still available but they are over here and not cheap.
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...CAMWl9e-9KmEdA
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...CAMWl9e-9KmEdA
Greg
#10
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Eaa (05-26-2016)
#11
His business name changed to Jag services. The HE pipe still shows up on Ebay but is marked out of stock. I also have tank and pipe of his but would probably fabricate using copper fittings and pipe if l needed another.
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Greg in France (05-26-2016)
#12
You are right about the name change but the web site is still Cathouse and the phone numbers were correct last time I spoke to Bob about 6 months ago.
You need to be careful if using copper pipe. If your coolant has any ionic content (ie use tap water) then the aluminium will be susceptible to galvanic corrosion.
You need to be careful if using copper pipe. If your coolant has any ionic content (ie use tap water) then the aluminium will be susceptible to galvanic corrosion.
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Eaa (05-26-2016)
#13
What would corrode, the copper or aluminum? and would it be pretty evenly distributed throughout engine and radiator? I've had aluminum corrode where it was in contact with steel, not submerged in liquid though.
I did use tap water, our water is not very high in dissolved minerals though not near the level of distilled or d-i water though, what influence will this have? It seems to me that even distilled water would pick up some contaminants after circulating for a while that would be "ionic"
Thanks, Eric
#14
My understanding is IF the coolant spec is kept right up to spec, no issues.
SOOOOOO, we all keep the coolant spec "spot on", do we not?????.
NO slack maintaining in here I would have thought, haha.
The original radiator was Copper/Brass, the heater core Aluminium, the engine alloy, the water pump impellor cast iron, the header tank crappy tin, the vent pipes on top of the radiator "Bundy tube", so best of luck working the science out there.
SOOOOOO, we all keep the coolant spec "spot on", do we not?????.
NO slack maintaining in here I would have thought, haha.
The original radiator was Copper/Brass, the heater core Aluminium, the engine alloy, the water pump impellor cast iron, the header tank crappy tin, the vent pipes on top of the radiator "Bundy tube", so best of luck working the science out there.
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#15
The following 2 users liked this post by xjsv12:
Eaa (05-26-2016),
Greg in France (05-26-2016)
#16
Many people including me think that this shouldn't be used, but if it has been used previously then unless flushed thoroughly then sediment from use of the product may circulate the cooling system's myriad of passages!
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Eaa (05-26-2016)
#17
Grant is right on keep the coolant up to snuff and copper pipe will be ok.
As for the brass and copper radiators the copper is tinned so this will prevent the corrosion issue to some extent.
We had a huge issue with galvanic corrosion on aluminium cases with a copper fitting, but this was only a major issue in NZ where our instruments were near the sea.
As for the brass and copper radiators the copper is tinned so this will prevent the corrosion issue to some extent.
We had a huge issue with galvanic corrosion on aluminium cases with a copper fitting, but this was only a major issue in NZ where our instruments were near the sea.
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Eaa (05-26-2016)
#18
#19
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That's what I did.
On first glance my crossover pipe looked ready for the scrapyard but on closer inspection it was in better shape than I thought, and was still perfectly serviceable. It's a fairly stout piece. The innards were clean as a whistle
A good scraping and sanding and a couple coats of POR15. Blurry cell phone pic below
Cheers
DD
#20
Also por15 have a tank sealer, this might work for the inside of the header tank and pipe.
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