I'm already poking around under the hood on my new 2024 SVR and noticed there's a tube on the inside of the oil filler cap. I'm guessing that goes all the way to the bottom of the pan. So looks to me like dealers don't drain the oil from the plug under the car. It's all done up top. I'm pretty sure all I need is a mityvac and filter cap wrench. I'd really like to do my first change at 5000 miles after a proper break-in but dealer and car are telling me to wait 16K miles which seems way too long to me.

Someone please explain to me why I should make an appointment weeks out, drive 30 minutes to the dealer, wait an hour there, then drive 30 minutes back when I can do this myself in about 15 minutes? I don't want to void my warranty so guess I'll do the regular 16K ones at dealer but they'll never know if I do an extra one in between. Or am I missing something? Really seems like it'd just be easier, faster and cheaper to do it myself.

 

You are definitely on the right track. 16K miles is way too long between oil changes on these engines and many here (I dare say most) do it at least twice as often or more, eg an extra DIY oil change between dealer changes.
And yes you should do an oil change at 5000 miles.

 

This is my own testimony on my 2018 XF. I've used 0W-20 FS Valvoline Extended Protection every OCI on this car. Note, this oil does not have the JLR STJLR.03.5004 specs but I do a 5,000 miles OCI. I don't to want to buy that JLR oil specs and pushed my Jag to 16,000 miles OCI. That's a NO-NO for me. Some of you may disagree, but hey, "To each their own"

 

I bought it for long distance driving at highway speeds so the recommended interval may work well for me after the first oil change. I'd just like to have the option of doing a quick one in between if I go all Speed Racer on some tough guy in a Dodge.

I'm still strategerizing my strategery and haven't picked an oil yet. Just want to make sure I got the right tools first. I searched YouTube for some videos after seeing the tube and MityVac seems to be the preferred extraction method but I thought someone said level marks were in liters. I'd be a lot easier for me if they were in quarts. Then I can just add the amount I remove to start so I don't accidentally overfill.

 

Yes. Simple vacuum out using that tube. And refill. Quick and easy. Jag has been doing this way for 10+ years. No drain plugs to cross-thread, seize up or leak.

Note that the regular annual (or 16k if you get there sooner) oil change is free for the first 4 or 5 years with a Jag (in USA at least). So you might as well do that.

Tons of debates on oil. Lots of people using other specs and saying 'it was fine'. To each their own but while in warranty I'd strongly suggest using Jag spec. It's in your maintenance book and there are several alternatives to the hard to find Castrol Edge that also meet the spec. Eg liquid-moly and some others. There are specific elements that are in much higher quantity than 'normal oil' for lubricant properties in their spec. So it's not just marketing
Whether it matters is up to you to decide

My 2c. When new doing a change at 5k is a great idea to ensure no initial contaminants. After that I've followed manufacturer spec. Plenty of these engines in Range Rover, Land Rover and Jaguar with high mileage.

 

Yeah I've been through the oil debates on the Bob Is the Oil Guy forums years ago and I still remember stocking up on German Castrol 0W that was only available in quart bottles at Auto Zone before they quit selling it. Had some magic lubricant called Ketjenlube in it. Anywho...

This is my first Jag so am still learning but 16K miles is the longest oil change interval I've ever seen. That's going to take some getting used to. I really don't see any harm in doing an extra one in between the dealer's free changes though. As long as I use an OEM filter they'll never know.

 

I posted on the wrong thread. Comments deleted.

 

I have the compressed air assisted vacuum from HF and the oil cap wrench from Amazon, I do LOF’s every 4,000 miles with Liqui Moly which my NAPA guy stocks for me and NAPA gold filters which are not WIX anymore but Mahle. So I’m doing two LOF’s and then let the dealership do the free one at the regular interval figuring I get the benefit of the 101 point inspection they supposedly do. Most importantly, keep an eye on your coolant level, like every week or two pop the hood. My two Paces are on their second WP and front coolant pipes. The SVR is also known for eating its crap Brembo brake pads. I (and everybody on the F Type forum) recommend grabbing a set of Porterfield R4 S pads to stop the squeaks and dust.

 

Some guy is selling the OEM filters on eBay so figure I'll use those just in case I need warranty work. And I guess I can just mark the quarts on a MityVac with a permanent marker to make sure I don't **** up the math accidentally. So I'm good to go!


EDIT: And I found this video very enlightening:

 

FYI, I ended up getting a MityVac 7201 for $130 and a 90.2mm/15flute filter cap wrench for $25, both from ebay like the filters themselves. The cheaper MityVac doesn't pump the oil back out and I didn't want to risk spilling dirty oil on my clean garage floor. I could also have gotten a generic Steelman 90mm cap wrench for $10 but if that .2mm saves me from having to bang it off I guess it was worth the extra 15 bucks. I might make a YouTube video and post it here when I actually get around to doing my first change. Betcha I can get it done in under 10 minutes despite never having done an oil change on a Jaguar before. And how much does the dealer charge? LOL

 

I saw this video several years ago about a guy who did his oil change in an F-Pace 2.0 4 cyclinder. Didn't even spill an oil. He even was wearing long sleves, some sort of fashion designer clothes and a watch (Huh! Who would wear a watch while doing an oil change?). He did it with hand oil change and the other hand holding the camera. I shared this video on this forum years ago, but I have to revive it once again for those who missed seeing it.

Note: The Mobil 1 he used on the video does not have the JLR specs anymore. But it still has the VW and Porsche specs to it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDrw1MdGkBM&t=305s

 

Also, don't reset your Jag's the on board computer, if you don't want the dealer to know you did an oil change.

 

This is the video I saw on YouBoob that clued me in:

 

MityVac is very well built. I'm glad I didn't get a cheap hand pump from Harbor Freight. Think I've been through like three of those already. And I've decided the best oil for me to use is Jag spec Liqui Moly LM20410 which is readily available at NAPA stores throughout the USA. So since I'm also using an OEM filter there's really no way they could deny a warranty claim.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/AICLM20410

 

@2018XF25T Best I can tell only difference between Jag spec Castrol and the stuff you can buy off the shelf at Walmart is they add a UV reactive dye, presumably for leak detection. So if you're out of warranty I definitely wouldn't waste money on Jag spec oil. On the other hand, it'd be a crying shame to be denied a warranty claim on a $5000 engine because you cheaped out and saved $50 on oil.

EDIT: But I also like extra molybdenum in my oil so Liqui Moly would have been my first choice anyways.

 

BTW, I didn't realize it when I ordered it on eBay but apparently I bought the filter cap wrench straight from the manufacturer in New Mexico.


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