Brake Pad Replacement Mileage
#1
Brake Pad Replacement Mileage
I realize people drive differently from each other, but in general for a car that has not been tracked, at what mileage did you replace your brake pads and/or rotors. I have 33,000 miles on mine and have noticed a pretty good lip developing on the edge of the rotors. Thanks.
#2
I bought my base model coupe with 26,000 miles. The rear pads were at the minimum thickness, but the fronts were at 50% - not sure why that is, but I wasn't driving it.
Both front and rear rotors were about .5 mm below nominal. I believe 2 mm of wear is the minimum by spec, so they were still good to go.
Both front and rear rotors were about .5 mm below nominal. I believe 2 mm of wear is the minimum by spec, so they were still good to go.
#5
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I bought and DIY fitted Porterfield R4-S pads 4.5 years and some 40,000 km ago and they have been great. Very smooth, progressive and quiet and the same stopping power as the OEM pads with about 1/4 the dust. Also much less "grabby" in stop/go traffic, the only downside is the lack of instantaneous bite with maybe 1 or 2 cm of initial whoa pedal travel before they bite but I soon got used to that.
As an added bonus they have barely worn at all and neither have the discs/rotors, I reckon I still have 2/3 of the new pad thickness left on all 8 pads and the discs/rotors have worn by maybe 1 mm each. The discs/rotors are Hart brand slotted and drilled that I swapped over from my old XFR with only about 5,000 km on them.
At this rate the pads will last another 80,000 km for a total of 120,000 km but I doubt either I or the car will last that long!
Thing is I have never worn out a set of brake pads in 47 years of driving and I have always replaced them well before they were anywhere near worn out, not because they needed replacing but because I am always looking for better/smoother/quieter/lower dust brake pads and I think I may have finally found them with the Porterfield R4-S.
Another reason why I get such extended life out of my pads and rotors is the way I drive.
I rarely need to brake firmly let alone hard and I use the brakes maybe half as much as most drivers because I drive using COAST - Concentration, Observation and Anticipation gives you Space and Time, especially the Anticipation part. So I coast to a stop at a red light using hardly any brakes at all unlike most others I see around me who slam the skids on at the last minute, and I never tailgate requiring constant tapping on the brakes like I see all too often.
As an added bonus they have barely worn at all and neither have the discs/rotors, I reckon I still have 2/3 of the new pad thickness left on all 8 pads and the discs/rotors have worn by maybe 1 mm each. The discs/rotors are Hart brand slotted and drilled that I swapped over from my old XFR with only about 5,000 km on them.
At this rate the pads will last another 80,000 km for a total of 120,000 km but I doubt either I or the car will last that long!
Thing is I have never worn out a set of brake pads in 47 years of driving and I have always replaced them well before they were anywhere near worn out, not because they needed replacing but because I am always looking for better/smoother/quieter/lower dust brake pads and I think I may have finally found them with the Porterfield R4-S.
Another reason why I get such extended life out of my pads and rotors is the way I drive.
I rarely need to brake firmly let alone hard and I use the brakes maybe half as much as most drivers because I drive using COAST - Concentration, Observation and Anticipation gives you Space and Time, especially the Anticipation part. So I coast to a stop at a red light using hardly any brakes at all unlike most others I see around me who slam the skids on at the last minute, and I never tailgate requiring constant tapping on the brakes like I see all too often.
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Carbuff2 (03-11-2022)
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#8
Out of curiosity, why do the rear brakes seem to wear out quicker on the F Type? When I bought my 2015 F Type with 42,000 miles, the dealer mentioned the rears were at 40% life and fronts at 60%. While it's in the shop for a new cat, the repairing dealer is also saying "rear brake pads, sensor rotors below spec". I just thought it strange since most of the stopping power is down by the front brakes.
#9
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- anti-dive which under medium to heavy braking applies the rear brakes a bit harder than the fronts
- the EPB (Electronic Park Brake) which works only on the rears and can sometimes be a little slow to auto release when driving off
- the way DSC (Dynamic Stability Control) which incorporates traction control and ABS works, mainly on the rear brakes.
IMHO the most likely primary reason is the anti-dive.
Many reports across numerous forums and Jag models of the rear brakes both pads and rotors wearing twice as fast as the fronts.
Last edited by OzXFR; 03-11-2022 at 06:13 PM.
#11
Other reasons have been posited as well, and most F-Types don't have torque vectoring anyway:
- anti-dive which under medium to heavy braking applies the rear brakes a bit harder than the fronts
- the EPB (Electronic Park Brake) which works only on the rears and can sometimes be a little slow to auto release when driving off
- the way DSC (Dynamic Stability Control) which incorporates traction control and ABS works, mainly on the rear brakes.
IMHO the most likely primary reason is the anti-dive.
Many reports across numerous forums and Jag models of the rear brakes both pads and rotors wearing trice as fast as the fronts.
- anti-dive which under medium to heavy braking applies the rear brakes a bit harder than the fronts
- the EPB (Electronic Park Brake) which works only on the rears and can sometimes be a little slow to auto release when driving off
- the way DSC (Dynamic Stability Control) which incorporates traction control and ABS works, mainly on the rear brakes.
IMHO the most likely primary reason is the anti-dive.
Many reports across numerous forums and Jag models of the rear brakes both pads and rotors wearing trice as fast as the fronts.
#12
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Out of curiosity, why do the rear brakes seem to wear out quicker on the F Type? When I bought my 2015 F Type with 42,000 miles, the dealer mentioned the rears were at 40% life and fronts at 60%. While it's in the shop for a new cat, the repairing dealer is also saying "rear brake pads, sensor rotors below spec". I just thought it strange since most of the stopping power is down by the front brakes.
The JLR specified minimum thickness of the brake rotors is a whopping 2 (two) mm below new thickness across all the steel rotors (380 mm, 376 mm, 355 mm and 325 mm) which is wildly conservative. Also on most Jags the insides of the rotors (and pads) usually wear twice as fast as the outsides so on a rotor that has hit the 2 mm wear mark you would usually find it is .67 mm worn on the outside and 1.33 mm worn on the inside. Still plenty of meat left IMHO.
JLR dealerships commonly hit the owner with "your brake pads need replacing but we recommend you replace/renew the brake rotors as well" even if it is the first time for pad replacement and the rotors are nowhere near the specified minimum thickness. Their rationale is "much better for braking performance and safety to match new pads with new rotors than to put new pads on used rotors". I say BS and any dealership which tries this on is simply looking to increase their profit at your expense, there is nothing wrong at all with fitting new pads to used rotors as long as the rotors have plenty of meat on them and are in good nick, I have done this many many times and never had a single problem. That said you should still bed the new pads in.
#13
Forgot to add a couple more things:
The JLR specified minimum thickness of the brake rotors is a whopping 2 (two) mm below new thickness across all the steel rotors (380 mm, 376 mm, 355 mm and 325 mm) which is wildly conservative. Also on most Jags the insides of the rotors (and pads) usually wear twice as fast as the outsides so on a rotor that has hit the 2 mm wear mark you would usually find it is .67 mm worn on the outside and 1.33 mm worn on the inside. Still plenty of meat left IMHO.
JLR dealerships commonly hit the owner with "your brake pads need replacing but we recommend you replace/renew the brake rotors as well" even if it is the first time for pad replacement and the rotors are nowhere near the specified minimum thickness. Their rationale is "much better for braking performance and safety to match new pads with new rotors than to put new pads on used rotors". I say BS and any dealership which tries this on is simply looking to increase their profit at your expense, there is nothing wrong at all with fitting new pads to used rotors as long as the rotors have plenty of meat on them and are in good nick, I have done this many many times and never had a single problem. That said you should still bed the new pads in.
The JLR specified minimum thickness of the brake rotors is a whopping 2 (two) mm below new thickness across all the steel rotors (380 mm, 376 mm, 355 mm and 325 mm) which is wildly conservative. Also on most Jags the insides of the rotors (and pads) usually wear twice as fast as the outsides so on a rotor that has hit the 2 mm wear mark you would usually find it is .67 mm worn on the outside and 1.33 mm worn on the inside. Still plenty of meat left IMHO.
JLR dealerships commonly hit the owner with "your brake pads need replacing but we recommend you replace/renew the brake rotors as well" even if it is the first time for pad replacement and the rotors are nowhere near the specified minimum thickness. Their rationale is "much better for braking performance and safety to match new pads with new rotors than to put new pads on used rotors". I say BS and any dealership which tries this on is simply looking to increase their profit at your expense, there is nothing wrong at all with fitting new pads to used rotors as long as the rotors have plenty of meat on them and are in good nick, I have done this many many times and never had a single problem. That said you should still bed the new pads in.
100% in agreement. I won't be using the dealer if and when replacements are needed. I am in the process of doing my homework on aftermarket replacement rotors and pads so I am ready to go. You can never tell these days how long it's going to take to procure things. Wouldn't bother me at all to loose some un-sprung weight with aftermarket rotors. I suppose having the stock rotors resurfaced would save a fraction of a pound or so.
#14
Out of curiosity, why do the rear brakes seem to wear out quicker on the F Type? When I bought my 2015 F Type with 42,000 miles, the dealer mentioned the rears were at 40% life and fronts at 60%. While it's in the shop for a new cat, the repairing dealer is also saying "rear brake pads, sensor rotors below spec". I just thought it strange since most of the stopping power is down by the front brakes.
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Agibbs996 (03-17-2022)
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