Last time I bedded my brakes at the track the rotors were a darker color reflecting the transfer of the pad material to the rotor. Maybe try bedding the pads again?

 

I've decided to go back to the OEM rotors and try the R4 pad compounds for the next on-track run. We're also going to replace the steering wheel with a flat bottom to try and give me some more legroom and pull back the carpet behind the seat to see if a 4-point harness can be installed.

Anyone have any guidance on the harness or know structurally if there's an anchor point for the should straps that already exists?

 

Looks like we're going to go back to OEM rotors and try the R4 pads. I'll post in the market place the StopTech rotors in the event someone's looking for a lightly used pair.

We're also going to strip back the carpet behind the driver's seat to see if there's any capability of securing a harness without requiring the addition of a bar / impeding the seat position.

 

Check with the organization who is running the track event just to make sure they will allow the 4pt harness. Some organizations will not allow them.

 

Good call. Was going to go with the anti-sub harness and believe at least one of them is FIA approved, but certainly worth checking.

The first thing I need to figure out is if I can even get it installed.

 

You won't be able to mount a 5/6pt harness (ones with the anti-sub straps) properly on the stock seats. My advice in the past has been if you have the OEM air bag system in the car, use the OEM 3pt seat belts but try to find other ways to augment the movement. The reason being is that the airbag system is designed to work in conjunction with the OEM 3pt seat beat.

Unfortunately, it appears the makers of the CG Lock are in a legal battle or I would recommend using that with the stock seat belts. An option to look at to help keep you in the seat better with the OEM equipment:

https://www.1010thsmotorsports.com/a...seat_pads.html

 

I have a G-loc abut couldn’t make it fit.
Can try to tighten the belt with the seat back “to far” and then move the seat forward to your usual spot.

 

Same, the CG-LOCK's don't fit on the back of the OEM seat belt buckle.

The seat is in the most rearward / lowest position as standard given my height, so bringing forward unfortunately won't work.

 

I've never tried this myself, but I see some of the HPDE drivers trying out SHOFT since CG-Lock is in a legal battle for the foreseeable future:

https://shoft.co.uk/#prettyphoto/1/

It's cheap enough to give a try. I might grab one to try on my street cars (although I'm hoping to have my race car back on the track sooner rather than later). I've read it's no replacement for a CG-Lock, but it's an option that might help out.

 

Glad to see another Ftype doing Track Days, I did ECR yesterday. I am going to get with G-Lock for some custom pads I dont like the lack of initial bite in the stock pads. I did get an overheating message and pitted but it went away by the time I got in so not sure if it was Brakes or Engine but the rest of the day the Engine Temp was ok.

Do you run in TrackDSC mode?

For several Laps I found myself trail braking for too long and felt like when i released the back end wanted to swing around, who knows I need to figure this car out.

 

This weekend I completed 2-day at COTA with OEM rotors + Porterfield R-4 pads with no issues. They're pretty loud on the street and until you can heat them up on track, but the bite is great both cold and hot.

 

Just adding my experience here with my 2017 SVR.
* The stock pads overheated (no dashboard warning) and smeared the front rotors badly after a little over an hour at Lime Rock; there was slight fade but not much. It smelled quite bad when overheated to a point that the flaggers complained.
* I then switched to EBC yellowstuff, which lasted 7 track days (about 1.5 hours each) with no issues. LIttle noise when cold and hot. Cannot say I'm happy with the wear life.
* Got Dynamic Friction Track Day Low Metallic 1000-1448-00 and will see how well it works.
* I might try Porterfield R4-E or Carbotech XP8 next (either would be 3x the part cost though)
* Car is way too bouncy and wobbly even with VAP lowering springs and in full dynamic mode, especially when trying to threshold brake and ABS kicks easily in on street tires (PZero PZ4)

 

Was that specifically an "hour" of straight track time, or an hour made up of multiple sessions of track time?

 

I would think multiple sessions of track time

 

Yep three morning sessions toasted the stock pads. I had to brake extremely early and gently for the remainder of the event. Also had engine overheat warnings if sessions are longer than 20 min each in hot weather.

 

Lowering a car moves the shocks closer to bottoming out, so lowering springs are always stiffer than OEM. Stiffer springs + stiffer shocks to match virtually guaranty a more bouncy ride unless the shock valving is adjusted to match.

 

You are not the first SVR owner to complain about brakes. However, Lime Rock is not a big track so it's interesting you ran into a problem there. There aren't a lot of SVR owners tracking so you are likely going to have to experiment to find a solution. Some suggestions:

• Inquire with some brake pad companies to see if they offer options that will work for the SVR. Just note, when you go full track pad, they squeal on the street as they never reach their required operating temperature. The best solution is to have a track pad and a street pad, and you change them out for what the car is being used. The majority of the time, only the front pad needs to be changed out. Most street cars don't have a lot of rear bias for braking.
• Have some custom brake ducts created for the car. I think there were some offered a while back, but I'm not sure they are available any longer. Any shop the maintains race cars can create custom ducts. Honestly, this is the best solution and usually you can have blocks as an option so when you drive the car on the street in cooler weather, you don't want to cool the brakes so you block off the inlets.

The VAP springs are not really "performance" springs. They are designed to balance performance and comfort. When you lower the car, you have less suspension travel. To compensate for that, typically the springs need to be stronger to handle the shorter distance. However, that creates an undesirable ride quality experience. However, the middle ground is to use a progressive rate spring which balances the options but that can create the less than desirable experience on a race track.

 

This has been mentioned elsewhere, but some of those pictures of drilled rotors means it needs restating. Drilled rotors do a couple (questionable) good things, and many bad things:

• Drilled discs were a thing back in the 1960s on race cars but much less so now because pad chemistry has improved, and better vented discs.
• Drilled discs makes them lighter - good.
• A huge amount of heat is being dumped into the disc and absorbed by the metal. Drilling the disc means that there is now less metal absorbing the same amount of heat, so it will get hotter than a non-drilled part - bad
• Drilling means that there is less disc surface area in contact with the pad, increasing pad temperature - bad
• Drilled rotors create stress risers at the edge of every hole, leading to a higher likelihood of cracking - bad.
• In an effort to reduce cracking, manufacturers chamfer the holes, which further reduces the disc surface area in contact with the pad, further increasing temperature. It also increases temperature because it further reduces the metal mass of the disc - double bad.
• Modern performance discs are vented, further negating the need for drilling

My advice, if you want "the ultimate", go with two-piece vented discs+bells, good pads, and true brake ducts. Anything else will be less effective to some degree.