F-Type freaking out (possible electrical issues)
So after almost 4 months without a car I finally received a call 5 days ago that I can pick up the car as they had found and repaired the issue.
Two modules have been replaced; one being body processor module and the other one being keyless start control module. Total cost was 1800€ (6h labor + parts).
They weren't able to diagnose the problem just by looking at the codes but since I was able to explain them in detail all the circumstances and all the steps that lead to the problem they were able to pinpoint a location where the problem was. Since the correct diagnose was too complex to perform I assume they replaced both modules to be on the safe side. Bear in mind that the car would only demonstrate the problems after driving it first on the highway and then in the city when the temperatures were over 25°C/77°F.
I hope that whoever has similar issues that he will find this post useful.
Now I can continue to be a happy Jag-owner
Two modules have been replaced; one being body processor module and the other one being keyless start control module. Total cost was 1800€ (6h labor + parts).
They weren't able to diagnose the problem just by looking at the codes but since I was able to explain them in detail all the circumstances and all the steps that lead to the problem they were able to pinpoint a location where the problem was. Since the correct diagnose was too complex to perform I assume they replaced both modules to be on the safe side. Bear in mind that the car would only demonstrate the problems after driving it first on the highway and then in the city when the temperatures were over 25°C/77°F.
I hope that whoever has similar issues that he will find this post useful.
Now I can continue to be a happy Jag-owner

No problems whatsoever - everything is working as it should.
Hopefully, your problem has been resolved. However, this sounds similar to what I went through with my 2016. Difference is, I went over a bumpy road, at a low speed, and every single warning light known to man went on. On top of that, the car (not me) went into limp mode. I spoke to my local mechanic and he told me it sounded like a voltage issue and to charge the battery and he'd look at it. He got so many fault codes, he told me to take it to the dealer. First they tried blaming the battery (which wasn't that old). I even got the thing about one of my O2 sensors (it was under warrantee so I didn't care). Almost everything mentioned in this thread as a possibility was looked at. Next they started looking at some group of wiring that runs from the front to the back of the car. They thought is was a problem with some connector (not the right word) for those wires somewhere in the middle of the car. Took all that apart and could not find the problem. But, after all that fooling with those wires and harnesses, the problem went away. Took 6 weeks of my holding my breath and dreading the bill. Fortunately, I paid a $300 diagnostic fee and every time they tried to screw me and charge me more, I said that it was all part of diagnosing the problem which they never really did. I actually had the stones to try and get them to refund the fee but that was just to **** them off. My guess is that with the natural flexing of the car, some wire got frayed and fixed accidently with them looking at the harnesses.
And shortly after that I sold the car. Went back to my 2013 Sonata without a care in the world. 8 months later bought a CPO 2020 F-Type. I'm a glutten for punishment.
And shortly after that I sold the car. Went back to my 2013 Sonata without a care in the world. 8 months later bought a CPO 2020 F-Type. I'm a glutten for punishment.
In aviation troubleshooting, we call that the "wiggle test." You turn on everything, then carefully poke and wiggle the cables and connectors until the instruments go nuts. Often times you can track down the problem to a particular cable or connector without even knowing about electronics.
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