F-Type Stereo System Upgrade Planning
#61
The following users liked this post:
jaguny (03-04-2018)
#64
System Change
So.... after some further planning and a few snags ... I had to change some items... for the better
I received the morel elate 903, but the x-overs were the 2 way and I can't get the 3 way x-overs without spending a lot of money. So I will have to run them active. This means another amp. Since I really like the audison thesis.... I'll shell out the dough for another Quattro. This provides me with a total of 8 channels (2 extra for subs if I choose).
the other change I made to materials is replacing the JL fix with a Mobridge da1. This module will take the digital signal right from the head unit straight into the bitone dsp and continue digital into the amps. The da1 was double the money of the jlfix... But I think we'll worth it.
I start the install of the speakers this weekend. Will take a while as I need to deaden 100% of the door, build the 9" speaker adaptors, mount the mid (hopefully direct fit) and the tweeter both sides.
pictures to come. Maybe a video as well
I received the morel elate 903, but the x-overs were the 2 way and I can't get the 3 way x-overs without spending a lot of money. So I will have to run them active. This means another amp. Since I really like the audison thesis.... I'll shell out the dough for another Quattro. This provides me with a total of 8 channels (2 extra for subs if I choose).
the other change I made to materials is replacing the JL fix with a Mobridge da1. This module will take the digital signal right from the head unit straight into the bitone dsp and continue digital into the amps. The da1 was double the money of the jlfix... But I think we'll worth it.
I start the install of the speakers this weekend. Will take a while as I need to deaden 100% of the door, build the 9" speaker adaptors, mount the mid (hopefully direct fit) and the tweeter both sides.
pictures to come. Maybe a video as well
#65
[QUOTE=Cambo;1851800]One other thing I forgot to mention.
The front door 200mm bass speakers from the XJ 2010-2012 "B&W" system are also a straight swap into the F-Type.
Cambo, from what I was able to find the part number 200 mm B&W system from 10-12 XJ is 2CD2077. Is that correct? Also are there any direct swaps for behind seat woofers and smaller (midrange?) speakers above from earlier B&W systems?
The front door 200mm bass speakers from the XJ 2010-2012 "B&W" system are also a straight swap into the F-Type.
Cambo, from what I was able to find the part number 200 mm B&W system from 10-12 XJ is 2CD2077. Is that correct? Also are there any direct swaps for behind seat woofers and smaller (midrange?) speakers above from earlier B&W systems?
#66
I'm fine with the 380W amp, but if there is a reasonably practical upgrade path for the speakers, I am all over that.
#69
Jag Audio upgrade
So.... after some further planning and a few snags ... I had to change some items... for the better
I received the morel elate 903, but the x-overs were the 2 way and I can't get the 3 way x-overs without spending a lot of money. So I will have to run them active. This means another amp. Since I really like the audison thesis.... I'll shell out the dough for another Quattro. This provides me with a total of 8 channels (2 extra for subs if I choose).
the other change I made to materials is replacing the JL fix with a Mobridge da1. This module will take the digital signal right from the head unit straight into the bitone dsp and continue digital into the amps. The da1 was double the money of the jlfix... But I think we'll worth it.
I start the install of the speakers this weekend. Will take a while as I need to deaden 100% of the door, build the 9" speaker adaptors, mount the mid (hopefully direct fit) and the tweeter both sides.
pictures to come. Maybe a video as well
I received the morel elate 903, but the x-overs were the 2 way and I can't get the 3 way x-overs without spending a lot of money. So I will have to run them active. This means another amp. Since I really like the audison thesis.... I'll shell out the dough for another Quattro. This provides me with a total of 8 channels (2 extra for subs if I choose).
the other change I made to materials is replacing the JL fix with a Mobridge da1. This module will take the digital signal right from the head unit straight into the bitone dsp and continue digital into the amps. The da1 was double the money of the jlfix... But I think we'll worth it.
I start the install of the speakers this weekend. Will take a while as I need to deaden 100% of the door, build the 9" speaker adaptors, mount the mid (hopefully direct fit) and the tweeter both sides.
pictures to come. Maybe a video as well
here's my video
Last edited by Cambo; 03-12-2018 at 07:44 PM. Reason: fixed video link
#70
#71
Jeremy, great video to see the inner workings of the door. I was hoping to see how you removed the door pane, and which tools from your kit you used. You did say it only took five minutes. If I was doing the swap with oem upgrades I was wondering if I could tackle this myself or leave it to a pro. I expect you have removed car panels before and this isn't your first rodeo?
#72
Hmmmm. Is this is your first attempt, I'd say get someone who has experience doing this to walk you through it.
I've removed many door panels, so I felt pretty confident. They are all kinda simular.
you'll need a pick to remove the screw cap in the center of the door handle. This will reveal a t20 torx.
there's also another trim piece on the side of the door. I used my trim panel plastic tool to remove that (there's a video on you tube) that will reveal another t20.
two other square covers on the bottom of the door will reveal 2 more t20 screws
finally 2 t30's in the door grip.
once all 6 screws are out.... use a 90 degree trim tool to pull the bottom of the door out. Once you get it started, you can just use your hands to finish pulling the rest of the door outwards.
Hope that helps
I've removed many door panels, so I felt pretty confident. They are all kinda simular.
you'll need a pick to remove the screw cap in the center of the door handle. This will reveal a t20 torx.
there's also another trim piece on the side of the door. I used my trim panel plastic tool to remove that (there's a video on you tube) that will reveal another t20.
two other square covers on the bottom of the door will reveal 2 more t20 screws
finally 2 t30's in the door grip.
once all 6 screws are out.... use a 90 degree trim tool to pull the bottom of the door out. Once you get it started, you can just use your hands to finish pulling the rest of the door outwards.
Hope that helps
The following users liked this post:
jaguny (03-12-2018)
#73
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,346
Received 3,157 Likes
on
2,325 Posts
Hmmmm. Is this is your first attempt, I'd say get someone who has experience doing this to walk you through it.
I've removed many door panels, so I felt pretty confident. They are all kinda simular.
you'll need a pick to remove the screw cap in the center of the door handle. This will reveal a t20 torx.
there's also another trim piece on the side of the door. I used my trim panel plastic tool to remove that (there's a video on you tube) that will reveal another t20.
two other square covers on the bottom of the door will reveal 2 more t20 screws
finally 2 t30's in the door grip.
once all 6 screws are out.... use a 90 degree trim tool to pull the bottom of the door out. Once you get it started, you can just use your hands to finish pulling the rest of the door outwards.
Hope that helps
I've removed many door panels, so I felt pretty confident. They are all kinda simular.
you'll need a pick to remove the screw cap in the center of the door handle. This will reveal a t20 torx.
there's also another trim piece on the side of the door. I used my trim panel plastic tool to remove that (there's a video on you tube) that will reveal another t20.
two other square covers on the bottom of the door will reveal 2 more t20 screws
finally 2 t30's in the door grip.
once all 6 screws are out.... use a 90 degree trim tool to pull the bottom of the door out. Once you get it started, you can just use your hands to finish pulling the rest of the door outwards.
Hope that helps
Here's the extract from the Workshop Manual:
The following users liked this post:
jaguny (03-12-2018)
#75
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,346
Received 3,157 Likes
on
2,325 Posts
However I have put a "sanitised" copy of mine in my Dropbox, go to this thread and use the second link in post #1 to download it: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...orkshop+manual
It's for a MY2015 V6S coupe auto but it will still be 99% applicable to your car.
The following users liked this post:
jaguny (03-12-2018)
#77
the other change I made to materials is replacing the JL fix with a Mobridge da1. This module will take the digital signal right from the head unit straight into the bitone dsp and continue digital into the amps. The da1 was double the money of the jlfix... But I think we'll worth it.
Last edited by Cambo; 03-19-2018 at 12:31 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by Cambo: