I have a low mile (25k) 2016 F Type base coupe with the premium 770w audio system. I noticed buzzing from door tweeters. I took it to the dealership after seeing the TSB for this exact buzzing. They attempted to install the bulletin 3 times but it supposedly failed. They still charged me $200 for the install attempts given my car is no longer under warranty. I reluctantly paid. I was retuned the car. I immediately noticed there was NO audio, no radio playback, no Bluetooth playback, can’t even attempt to connect to the phone.

I had them look at it again. Clearly they didn’t test the audio before returning it to me. They tried to power cycle the amp by disconnecting battery. There was no change. Then they tried to learn the amo as new but that didn’t work either.

The service manager told me the amp is bricked and needs to be replaced. Given it is out of warranty the cost would fall on me - even though they bricked the amp during the update. They suggested I reach out to the Jaguar customer relations to see if they can provide any assistance with the repair.

Of note I have wireless CarPlay module installed and have the upgraded premium LR Kevlar speakers in both doors (all of which worked fine except the tweeter buzzing). I will remove all of this and return the headunit + speaker to stock and have them attempt to relearn the Amp just incase they are interfering with update/learning somehow.

Also The secret valet mode says “unavailable” for everything that is related to audio - radio, Bluetooth, cd/dvd.

Any ideas? Could it be anything else? Are there audio specific fuses or relays that I can check that may have tripped during the update now losing all Audio? Or am I stuck paying parts + labor to have this thing repaired?

 

You shouldn’t have had to pay. Bring it up to the management, if that doesn’t work, call jlr and get someone higher up involved.

 

They refunded the $200 for the service bulletin install attempts now that the audio system is bricked. But I’m likely going to be stuck with paying for the amp + instal.

 

If you get stuck for the cost, you might be better going to an audio installer and get them to install something decent, and probably for a lot less than the dealer will charge. But I hope you can get the guys who broke it, to fix it - that seems like justice.

 

I almost want to DIY replace the amp and have them attempt to code it as new. but the dealer said the Amps are vin coded and I need a "virgin" amp

 

It's possible that the CarPlay kit disrupted the CAN messages between SDD and the FCDIM (touchscreen) which lead to the failed amp programming. The FCDIM is the gateway that converts CAN messages to MOST messages. The CarPlay kits intercept the CAN and change some messages in order to tell the system an external nav box is fitted and to use it instead of the internal nav. We did some CAN logging on a car with a CarPlay kit installed and some of the replies from the FDCIM were "incorrect", so for any future attempt at programming a MOST module remove the CarPlay box.

The amps are not "VIN coded" but there is different software for different vehicles, this is most apparent with the F-Type, the channel assignments are totally different because no rear doors and the subs are a different arrangement to a Land Rover for example.

You can fit any amp with matching or compatible part number to the car & program it as a new module, and the correct software will be loaded, I've lost count of how many times I did this... BUT only if the car was originally built with 770W Premium Sound, trying to do this in a retrofit situation will certainly fail. 2016MY Premium amp would be GK52-19C164-BA, or earlier version DX23-19C164-BA if you found one from a wrecked F-Type you could even just swap it over without any programming. If it came out of a Land Rover then the channel assignments will be wrong but it will still work and make sound.

 

Cambo. Thank you for such an insightful response.
I have just removed the carplay kit and returned the radio to stock. I've left the JLR Kevlar speakers in the doors (didn't have time to swap over the originals though I doubt it would make a difference). Question is do you think I can just have them try to reprogram the amp that is already in there now that it is in stock configuration w/o carplay? What are the chances that'll actually work.

 

It's worth a shot!

 

Let's see!

 

FWIW, the dealer also failed the software update of the 'tweeter buzzing' TSB when my '16R was under warranty. They had to replace the amp under warranty, so I assume it was also bricked. Factory 770W Meridien.

 

Did the tweeter buzzing go away with the new amp?

 

Sadly I couldn’t tell a difference. The sound quality was just as mediocre, which the flash was supposed to also improve. So, Don’t know if the new amp had the updated crossover specs.

 

I had the update done on my old coupe and I could not tell the difference.

 

No info as to your solution - but just a data point. I had the TSB applied and it made an immediate and clear difference. I've since upgraded the subs in my car as well.

 

Got the car back with the Amp replaced. Good to have audio back. Audio quality seems about the same as before but the tweeter rattle seems to have improved. It's still faintly there at super loud volume. Disappointed to find that 30 hz tone still goes to the tweeters.

 

Were you completely stock with door speakers before the TSB application?
And which sub did you upgrade to?

 

​​​​​is there any way to verify if you have the tsb applied through the hidden menus software/firmware version?

I'm wondering if mine has it done or not.

 

I wonder the same. I think if someone with TSB applied for sure can play a 20 or 30hz tone from a tone generator to see if it goes to the tweeters can help.