I would just add - if they really needed all new tires and new brake pads at just 4000 miles it must have been driven very hard. Now maybe that's ok as it is designed to be driven. But I can't believe that only 1% of rotors were consumed with a full set of tires and pads...

Of course it also depends on pricing. If you are buying 20k below value as it's hard driven then maybe a good deal, accept that you might need rotors and still come out ahead
But honesty unless it's a steal I'd walk away
My SVR also has smooth rotors front and rear and no vibration on braking.

You could ask again for them to weigh them - that's the only way to know how worn they are. But if they are vibrating then they may be damaged in which case doesn't matter if worn or not

 

1st, never buy a press car! It's the same as buying a salvaged car. Abuse = damage. Press cars are abused, driven hard on cold engine, driven my people who don't know how to drive etc etc. 2nd, never believe a salesman.

 

Yaseen, those don’t look too bad, and are consistent with how the front rotors will look after many hard track days. The front rotors on mine are not as smooth as the rear after a couple track days, but not as rough as your pictures. That’s definitely not 99% left. The vehicle has an algorithm to estimate rotor life that can be read with SDD or Pathfinder. The dealer should at least give this number. But It’s just an estimate, the proper way to determine how much is left is to weigh the rotor. Unfortunately this is not quick to do, caliper needs to be removed, rotor removed, rotor cleaned throughly (pad transfer, dirt, and any other residue will affect the weight), then weighed on an accurate calibrated scale. I doubt any dealer will do it.

I wouldn’t expect the rotor surface will cause vibration, doesn’t seem rough enough. These rotors don’t warp. It is possible the rotor is out of balance, but that’s rare. There may be something else going on. Has the hub on the LH side been replaced? From the picture it looks like that side has no rust while the RH side is rusty. Perhaps the other side is going bad? I’ve had my hub replaced under warranty. Twice, one front and one back. Both happened after a track day.

 

This was incredibly useful! Thank you very much. Have you had to replace your pads yet? Personally I won’t track the car. From my calculations the front has 50%(6mm) pads left and rear 35%( 4mm) this excludes The 3mm wear indicator which needs to be changed at this point. How much kms with road driving should I get as a estimate on 4mm vs 6mm?

Should I be worried if the front discs are a bit rough to the touch? Don’t get me wrong it’s not extremely course it’s just has a texture to it as a run my fingers over it

 

At this point, it is very clear that you made up your mind and are looking for a permission to buy this car.

Use the condition of rotors, and the $12K price of a CF brake job as a negotiation point to further knock the price down. Get "warranty will not be voided due to track use by previous owners" in writing prior to buying the car. Ideally, take it for PPI to a different shop/dealership.

 

I haven’t had to replace pads yet, but getting there. The rear pads are almost done. I’m surprised the dealer didn’t change them. For CPO 50% is the minimum. Also, for track use the recommendation is to never go below 50%. I would ask them to replace the pads. I would guess it has just 5k miles left, and I would watch it carefully, if the pad back contacts the rotor during braking, the rotors are toast.

A little roughness is fine, but indicates wear. Here’s what the service manual says about the surface condition:

Should also check for cracks and any large chips.

I agree with SinF, if you’re dead set on getting it and you haven’t bought the car already, I would negotiate hard. The rear pads are out and the front ones are not new. Have them fix the vibration and replace the rear pads.

 

In addition to SinF's post, you are going to have to replace the brakes at some point regardless of the current condition (unless you sell the car before then). Make sure you understand the costs of replacing those brakes up front.

 

Based on a couple of other threads, the OP has already purchased the car. Hope it works out.