I have 18000 miles on my 2015 R. I have an inspection coming up in August and I don't want to be "surprised" by requiring new pads and get stuck putting the dusty stock ones on. How long do they last? How best to measure and what's the spec? I think I want porterfield R4S when it's time to do them.

 

I have 45,000 miles on my V6S 'high performance' brakes, including 2 track days. Haven't checked lately, but think I still have plenty of pad left.

 

I just ordered a set for my V8 S from LPI Racing. https://www.lpiracing.com/

 

Recently changed out my stock pads from my 2015 R with 23K miles, they appeared to be about 50% worn. There was also a noticeable lip on the stock rotor, so the rotors had worn appreciably. I'd expect to replace rotors with each set of pads.

 

I found a local place to cut them for $15 each.

 

 

Your car, you can do what you like, but you may want to look into the jaguar spec, I don't think there is much machining allowed. That said, the fronts rotors are gigantic, overweight trashcan lids that seem like overkill, so turning those a time or two may not matter.

 

My rotors aren't warped but of course the surface has some tiny 'waves' on it as is normal over time. I've seen people talk of changing pads for track day (for example). Can I just put the P4S on there and bed them in carefully? Sounds like it would be wise to have the pads on hand, especially given the low cost of them.

 

Brake pad life expectancy depends greatly on how you use them. I know of people that put 40K miles on them and still have some left, I know of people that used them up in 10K miles or less. Even f the dealer tells you that you need pads (and I doubt it as the F-Type has a sensor/light for it), you can always do it yourself or your shop of choice with whatever pads you want. The front nes are very easy to change.

 

Simple things I have learned about Jaguar brake pad and rotor wear over the years:
- the stock rotors are quite soft and the stock pads are semi-metallic and quite abrasive, so both wear fairly quickly
- this is a deliberate design by JLR to give more initial bite to the brakes, good stopping power and better resistance to brake fade
- three downsides besides the high wear rate: lots of dust, the brakes are "grabby" and not progressive in stop/go traffic (makes smooth driving difficult), and on most a "graunch" just as you come to a stop
- in almost all cases you should be able to get two sets of pads out of one set of rotors, before the rotors become worn below the minimum specified thickness
- many/most dealers will advise/recommend/insist that the rotors be renewed every time you (really they) renew the pads even when there is plenty of meat still on them and they are nowhere near the minimum specified thickness
- the minimum specified thickness is only 2 mm below new thickness, so hardly any wear at all in the scheme of things, especially on the very thick front rotors. For example the 380 mm front brake rotors are 36 mm thick new and supposedly "worn out" at 34 mm thick.
- the pad wear sensors are designed to trigger when the respective pad (front left inner and rear right inner) gets down to 4 mm thick, so way before the pads are dangerously low. But the pad wear sensor system can be problematic and should not be trusted, there are reports of the pads wearing down to almost nothing and no sensor was triggered.
- all modern Jags have "anti-dive" built into the brake system, which under moderate to heavy braking engages the rear brakes sooner and harder than the front brakes. This causes the rear pads and rotors to wear faster than the fronts, the opposite to most people's experience on other cars.

 

 

I'll be sure to measure mine when I swap them out for Porterfields and Wortecs, maybe next month if things go well. I have 25K miles, and there it a noticeable wear lip on the rotors, front and rear. I do a lot of commuting, but hills are part of that (including the entertaining part), and I often brake hard. Sorry I don't have measurements now (and two-piece rotors!), but that's the way it goes sometimes.

 

Same for me, noticeable lip on rotors, at 18k. I am not in the "replace rotors every time" camp like the dealers usually insist you do.

 

 

Any idea what the min and new thicknesses are for OEM pads? I found info on pads for CCB brakes in OzXFR's shop manual, but nothing on the standard brakes. I've never measured pads myself, but may give it a shot.

When I had my previous set of tires put on, the guy put his iPhone in video mode, and was able to get it in far enough to look at the pads that way. Nice trick.

 

Yep, strange that those specs aren't shown in the F-Type Workshop Manual.
But all is not lost, I still have a copy of the 2010-2011 XFR manual and the XFR has the exact same brakes as the F-Type "super performance" brakes, 380 mm front and 376 mm rear.
According to the manual the brake pads thicknesses are:
Front - 13 mm "nominal" (I presume that means "new"), minimum 2 mm.
Rear - 10.8 mm, minimum 2 mm.
Anyway, here is a copy of that page from the Manual:


Remember, these are the specs for XF brakes but they cover the same 380 mm and 355 mm front brakes and 376 mm and 326 mm rear brakes as those on the F-Type so I believe the basic specs would be the same.

 

GREAT trick, and I don't know why I didn't think of this. I have plenty of pad all around, and see that the rears are indeed worn more than fronts.