I am looking for some extended studs. I want to run some 5mm spacers that are hub centric that I had custom made. But I don't feel 100% with the threads that I have left. Anyone have a link to a set? I was searching for a set and can't seem to find them.

 

i ran the calculations and determined that you can go a full 6mm without compromising the stud/nut strength. I ran 6mm for several months before the custom wheels came in.

 

what did you do with those 6mm spacers? Were they hub centric? The hub sticks out about 8mm on my car (carbon ceramic brakes) so I’m wondering how they could be hub centric?

 

Yes, they were hub centric and fit perfectly on the super performance brake hubs. I sold them to someone here on the forum.

 

ah ok. You remember where you got them? I would need a set to check fitment and brake clearance...

 

duplicate post.

 

Here’s the complete catalog of SCC spacers for the F-Type listed on the WHEELS UK website: https://www.wheelspacers.uk.com/inde...F-Type&typ=QQ6

SCC part number 12452 is the 6mm double hubcentric. Look for it on eBay. I found that to be much less expensive than shipping from the UK. Tuner Shop carries them as well.

 

I searched for a very long time and could not find extended wheel studs for our cars. Extended thread lug nuts are the only other alternative I've been able to come up with.

 

Thanks bro

 

I called motorsport tech and had a custom set made, hubcentric.

 

Best of luck with that. Their quality control and customer service sucks. One they get it right though, they do make a good product.

 

Bumping this thread to see if anyone has found some solutions here years later. I have a custom BBK on my X260 XF that I am trying to fit but it won't clear my wheels, so Im stuck with some sort of spacing solution, as I am keeping the kit and don't want to source new wheels.

Option A) - Run the H&R adapter style spacers, starting at 15mm, and going from 18-20. Likely too much spacing for my wheel setup and I don't want to deal with the bulky adapters.
Option B) - Swap the studs out for longer units, and run a 5-6mm HC spacer, without sacrificing thread engagement **
Option C) - Have the BBK company make a set of thicker rats to act as a spacer ($$$)

**It is my understanding the bearing housing needs to come out of the knuckle to do a lug swap, would love it if that's not true. Can anyone confirm or denty what's involved with a stud swap on these cars?**

An M12 lug should have an equal amount of engagement. The XF-S lugs are 32mm... If the rotor and wheel take up about 20-21mm as mine do, that leaves me 11-12mm of threads, perfect. So even a 3mm spacer here would cause me to be concerned about thread engagement.

It looks like TunerSHop still offers a 3mm 5x108 spacer, I might try those, but still not sure what to do on the extended lugs.

-Devin

 

Option D - use extend length (aka 'ET') lugs and the appropriate washers. For 12mm hub-spacer-wheel centric spacers on my R, 1" shank length lugs & washers added ~2mm more than the 12mm thickness of the spacers, so even slightly more thread engagement than stock setup. Been running these for over a year and reconfirmed multiple times that the lugs do stay fully torqued and no deformation to the washers.

From your description, look for at least the 1.38" /35mm shank lug nuts (comes with washers). Hope this helps.




Correct Washers:


Stock lugs:

 

@Bierry thanks for this info, I had no idea ET lugs existed. I will look into this. I might need two sets - one for the OE wheels, and another for the aftermarket wheels I run in the summer (OZ)

What spacers are you running with these?

 

I’m running these. However, their holes (and probably other spacers) are slightly too small to allow the shank of the ET lugs to pass through (the longer shanks pass through wheels’ holes just fine, just not spacers’), so I enlarged them using a bridge reamer and a little cutting oil. Used a battery impact driver and because spacers are aluminum, it took no effort. Enlarging all 20 took <5 mins.

 

Thanks, so it is 63.4 on both the hub and wheel side, remaining a hub centric design throughout.

Since your pictures are of OEM lug nuts, I am assuming your solution was with OEM wheels?

 

Yes, I retained factory wheels with their flat seats, thus that style ET bolts and Cragar style washers.

 

Ok thanks for clarifying that. This will likely be my solution for my OEM wheels as well, but I also need to find something for the aftermarket summers I run. (OZ Leggera HLT). Those are 60* Cone seat, which seems to be available as well in an ET style.

One question I have still - is this seems to potentially convert a car to lug centric, and our cars are hub-centric. I might be over thinking this but - I would need an ET Lug who's shank OD is lower than the wheel opening ID, (spacer too, if the shank is tall enough, like you mentioned having to ream yours out), so that the wheel and spacer combo can still be supported by the hub rings, and NOT transferred to the studs when using ET Lugs. Perhaps a minor distinction, some of the ET lugs im reviewing have disclaimers stating that ET lugs are not intended for hub centric vehicles. My guess is they are being conservative to avoid liability of someone running these on a hub centric car and adding stress to the lugs. Just want to make sure this isn't a risk for the Jag studs.

So in order to calculate proper shank length of an ET Lug, you need to know your total stud, minus the brake rotor hub thickness. Not sure what the F-Type studs are, but the XF is a 32mm stud. My hats are 9mm, so that gives me 23mm of available threads. or 0.90" inches. If the shank is too long or too thick, it could bottom out against the hub/brake before actually seating on the wheel seat.

Learning a lot here!

 

These might work - https://lugnutguys.com/collections/l...t-12x1-5-black

They have a 0.33" shank, and after my OZ's (11mm) and a 6mm spacer, I have 6mm of threads left. In order to get my 8 turns or about 12mm of length I need another .25" of thread length. So these would be a tad tall, but not go all the way through the wheel.

Does it make sense to get something as long as possible for maximum turns?