Is it necessary to remove a rear wheel hub to replace a stripped wheel stud?

I will be changing rear brake pads this week and want to replace a stripped rear wheel stud.
A shop nitwit with an impact gun stripped one stud and this brake job is a good opportunity for repair.
Thanks,
Roger

 

Hi Roger,


Short answer, I don't know. But looking at the parts, I'm pretty sure you could replace the stud without removing the hub.

The front wheel studs are the standard splined-taper press-in/pull-in type, but the rear studs are threaded in and cross-peened, as shown in the photo below:





This photo shows you how much room you have to work with with the wheel and brake rotor removed from the hub. I don't think I had begun to pull the hub before I took the photo - apologies if you discover less clearance between the hub and handbrake shoes on your car. Worse case, you could remove the shoes for more clearance.






I don't know which method might work, but you could first try clamping one or two pairs of Vise Grips/Mole Grips pliers on the stud and attempting to turn it in one direction or the other to see if it may move. If the threads are already stripped you can't do any harm.

If it won't turn, and you have a reciprocating saw (Sawzall), an oscillating tool like a Dremel Multi-Max, an angle grinder or die grinder, you might be able to cut or grind the head off of the back end of the stud and then rotate it out. You could also cut the stud off on both sides of the stud and drill out the remaining plug, taking care not to damage the threads in the hole or the front or rear surfaces of the hub flange.

The last time I checked, the studs were still available and were not too expensive directly from Jaguar. It's possible if not likely that they are a standard Ford or GM part available at your local auto parts store.

If you decide the hub needs to come off, it would be a great time to repack your hub bearings. Below are links to photos illustrating that work:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


Please let us know how it goes!

Cheers,

Don

 

Thank you Don. Looks like a bit of work, but I'll get it done. More reason why I don't let shops touch my cars. The dollar$$ chase is more important than the quality of the work performed.

 

I got into the job today. No problems taking things apart.
Now to the heart of the matter: The hub is stripped! How f**king stupid do you have to be to strip a wheel hub? How do shops tolerate incompetence and stupidity like this? I'm fairly certain of the pacific northwest shop that did this and they shouldn't be permitted to work on a roller skate.
I'm going to look for a 1/2 - 20 helicoil kit tomorrow and see if I can helicoil this otherwise it's a replacement hub.

 

Roger,

That's a real bummer. I don't know why a helicoil wouldn't work, but if not, a salvaged hub shouldn't be too hard to find.

Please keep us informed.

Don

 

If you can get the new stud even loosely threaded and 'flush' you can weld the back side to lock it in place. That will render the hub more difficult to repair if that stud fails again.

You will still need to 'peen' or tack weld even if you get a new thread insert in the hub or the new stud might come out when you remove the wheel nut.

I have repaired a bunch of hubs both ways.

bob gauff

 

Thanks fellas. I pulled the brake rotor off and there it was, The stud held in position by the rotor, I was stupefied. Whoever screwed it up just put the stud in the hub, put the brake rotor in place over the stud and the customer got the finger. I'll try a helicoil and Locktite (Blue? Red?) the stud in place. The wheel torque spec is 70 pound feet, which really isn't a helluvalot.

 

The hub does get relatively hot while the vehicle is moving, and heat from braking sinks through the rotor to the hub and wheel, but I don't think it gets hot enough to weaken either Red Loctite or J-B Weld epoxy, so one of those might work. I'll be interested in Bob's more experienced opinion.

 

I installed the helicoil and trimmed the back side with my pneumatic cutoff tool. The job is neatly done and looks good (took pics). The stud is installed and I Locktited both it and the helicoil. The stud is in a few degrees off from perpendicular. However some persuasion with my mallet, brass drift and a little relief with a rat tail file on the rotor and all assembled well. To test the red Locktite I will install a lug nut to torque spec then remove it and check the repair. Unless experience proves otherwise I still consider the mess I found to be a weak point and may replace this hub in the future.

 

Congratulations, Roger. We'll look forward to seeing the photos!

Cheers,

Don

 

I usually tack weld all replacement studs in place.
A 'tire-changer' at a shop will use an 'impact gun' to change wheels and destroy all your hard work.

You might get away with marking the repaired stud/nut and using hand tools each time the wheel is serviced.

Try to avoid over torquing the stud.

bob gauff

 

Thank you Bob. The thing is that I refuse to let shops touch my cars.
I do all my own work precisely because of f**k ups like this. Shops are more interested in the dollar$$ chase than the quality of their work. There's an MB dealer in the area that charges $360.00 per hour for labor.

 

How to replace rear studs on a 2011 xj jag