So we have about a month before our next track day and I have decided to throw a bit more money at her.

I will be doing the Crank Pulley (Finally!), the Eventuri Intake (Will dyno before and after and report back on whine for it) and also debating on doing the Intercooler Upgrade as well a some cooler spark plugs.

I live in texas so it gets warm, but I also know that we have the same IC as the V8 cars so the question is this...

Will the intercooler and spark plugs even do anything for me at this point?
Hoping the car will be in the 450-460 range with the intake.

 

Which V6 do you have? The 380HP has an upgraded cooling system from the 340HP engine

 

I have the F Type S, which is the 380 option

 

How so?

 

Source: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...pgrade-159767/

 

We'll finally have some numbers instead of claims. Can't wait.

 

where in Texas are you? I live on the south side of Houston and visit MSR Houston in Angleton. I don't have an F-type yet but hope to find an R very soon.

 

Does it? In what way?

 

Ummmm....

The V6, V6S and V8's have identical intercooler radiators and pumps.

 

Spark plug heat range is an interesting topic and something that seems to have been overlooked by most tuners working with Jags.

While the 5.0L is running an NGK 6 from the factory, the 3.0L actually has an NGK 7 from the factory.

Some discussions here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...-aj-v8-176996/ although inititally I was only concerned about the older 4.2L cars, but I had a look at the F-Type as well. Interesting comments from Sean in that thread.

There is an NGK 8 plug available which is compatible with the 3.0L V6, and it has the same gap as specified from the factory (actually that plug is for the Nissan R35 GTR).

Since the V6 is already running a 7 from the factory, do you need to go to an 8? I don't have an answer but the general consensus is once you start adding hp, then you "should" also go for a colder plug...

 

I think the only way to know for sure is to test the colder plugs in various gaps and log it to see if there are any misfires. I've had colder plugs for audi s4 dual pulley set up due to tuners recommendations but I couldn't feel the difference

 

One more point of evidence that VAP really knows what they're doing. Colder plugs are going into my vehicle per their direction. Which really makes total sense given the power/boost increase.

 

Its not about feeling a difference. The plugs won't gain you anything unless you're tuning for it, and its really more about being safe and making reliable power than anything. Also it could really help with keeping temps down, which can be a roadblock with these.

 

right, the general run of thumb is 1 step colder for every 100 hp in the audi community.

It is not about feeling the difference, you have to use OBD port and log the misfires and IAT with a laptop or cellphone. Then adjust the spark gap wider or narrower based on the logs.
You can also visually inspect the spark plugs and see how they are burned to adjust accordingly.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

@WhiteTardis
after doing some digging, it appears that all of the F-Types have identical cooling

@jfranks
Thank you! I will be holding off on the radiator for now. We do have track days and I reside in Texas, which means track days @ 95+ degrees. Once we do one or two, I will keep an eye on temps and possibly order the part at that time.

@shikatsu
Exactly! There is one thread where the guy saw about 16 or so HP out of it with Dyno results, but we will see. I also plan on taking videos from inside the car and figuring out a way to mount a GoPro or mic on the hood to record SC whine if any starts to appear after this.

@Jabooh1
Plano, right by Dallas. I was in Houston 2 weeks ago for a day but I usually stay well north. We go to Eagles Canyon the most but may be expanding soon.

@Cambo
Most people do over look this, which is silly due to the low cost associated with the upgrade (labor intensive at times however). I called NGK and was told that they do not carry any plugs cooler than what is currently on the car (Part #SILZKAR7E8S, Stock#93476). I was advised by VAP to get some if I could and data log the car as they may be able to squeeze a little bit more out of it with the plugs.

Do you have any links that confirm fitment and maybe a link to purchase those online? Seeing how we will have the car half taken apart within the next couple of weeks, this would be a no brainer.

@Guest1
Colder plugs do not just "add power" in the sense that a tune, intake or exhaust do. They require tuning to get a difference as far those butt numbers go, but they do allow the car to operate at lower temps. Cooler is always better, especially after adding mods and boost which will cause additional heat.

@Stohlen
I was SO happy when they mentioned them to me, it really just re-enforced why I chose them as a tuner.
The only thing I am on the fence about with them is that their crank pulley is constructed out of Steel (if I remember right) while a identical size is available out of Aluminum from another source. I feel like less weight is always better? But feel free to chime in on this.

So just to recap, here is what we are doing:

Base Line Dyno Pull
(Current mods are a custom, de-catted 2.5" exhaust with VAP Stage 1 Tune)

Mod Dyno Run
(Will replace the exhaust with hopefully a 100 Cell Cat and FI Exhaust which is stunning, will be adding the Crank Pulley and bumping the tune up to Stage 2 from VAP)

Intake Dyno Run
Everything from the previous run plus the Eventuri intake.

We will probably dyno log and possibly adjust a few things to squeeze a tad more power out of it at a later point but this will give everyone good base numbers for "full" bolt ons (still waiting on those headers from VAP )

 

There are actually two plugs listed for the AJ126S, it varies by VIN range.

AJ812988, up to K05405 in the F-Type, up to U04717 in the X250 XF
C2Z28434 from K05406 in the F-Type, from U04718 in the X250 XF

AJ812988 is the SILZKAR7C10S

C2Z28434 is SILZKAR7E8S according to what's under the label of the OEM box.



If you break down the NGK part number into piece....

SILZ KAR 7E 8 S

There is a plug for the Nissan R35 GTR

DIL KAR 8A 8

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9718

I think that's the closest you're going to get, compare the specs to the OEM part https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=47770

 

Im confused, then what did you mean by you couldn't feel the difference when you know it's not about feeling the difference?

 

Less weight certainly is better for performance, however it can have downsides for reliability and other factors. For the crank pulley the extra mass is relatively close to the rotational axis which means it has a more minimal impact than a similar comparison of wheels for example from a power standpoint. However the increased mass will help with crankshaft vibration dampening since you're removing the rubber dampener from the stock unit assembly. Really just depends on if you want the extra couple power or a bit of piece of mind reliability wise. I don't think there is a wrong answer here.

 

I was just stating my experience that changing the spark plugs didn't change how the car felt. Most of the time, I like to share what I do know =)

 

I wonder which plugs the "400" runs...