Does anyone have experience with the QuickJack 5,000-LB Capacity Portable Car Lift from Costco? How does it work with the Jaaag?

 

I asked the same question a while back in this thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...7/#post1992724

I plan on getting one next spring despite some of the negative experiences mentioned.

 

I've been waffling on getting one of these for three years. The concern I have is that the lines between the fore and aft lift points are not parallel, and the two lifts must be parallel to each other to work (safely).

 

You have about 200mm/8" of sideways adjustment in each tray, and slightly more lengthways. (Going by memory as I am away from home atm.)

I use them sideways across the car instead of front-to-rear as access to position them is much easier. Crudely drawn onto the diagrams below. The QJs don't lift vertically, they move to side about 200mm/8" as they lift so they may not be suited for sideways use in a enclosed garage, etc. You can transfer onto axle stands if you need front-to-back access to the underside of the car, e.g. dropping the drive shaft, exhaust, etc. The QJ doesn't cover the stand locations.

If you really wanted to use them lengthways you could make up a pair of beams from some suitably rated box section steel and tap/thread them to bolt to the QJ trays on both sides. That would require more precise parallel alignment to stop them twisting but could be done, effectively turning them into a normal hydraulic lift. You'd need to risk assess the safety of working under that.


Lifting points

Support points

 

 

To both of the above posters with a quickjack, would you be able to post some photos of the lift in operation with your f type, with detail shots of the pad locations under the car?

 

Bought it three years ago and lust love it. Works perfectly on my F Type

 

 

Just pulled the trigger on one of these myself.

 

 

still would love a detail photo of the block positioning from someone who has one of these, for forum posterity

 

You could also drive it onto 4 short pieces of 2X8 for clearance.

 

 

Received my Quick Jack today. Assembled it and bled the system. Seems to work ok. Can't test it today because it is snowing outside and not enough room in the garage to use it safely.

The unit appears to be well built. It also weighs a ton. It does have handles and wheels but it is hard to steer around stuff and the wheels are so small that any little pebble will stop motion.

The manual kind of sucks. But they have good video on how to assemble it.

Overall I think it will be a nice addition to the garage.

 

Here you go. Not my car a stock photo.

 

So I'm glad that isn't your car because I'd say it's at risk of falling off that lift. The rear pad is a good 10 inches forward of the rear lift point on the car. Take the front wheels off and boom.

 

That image is deceptive because of the angle - the rear of the lift is actually about 4" in front of the rear wheel.

 

Welp I went ahead and tried for myself and will provide the photos. This is the 5000-SLX model. Do note that the fore and aft lift points on the F Type are at the absolute limits of these frames. Honestly, the optimal spots are about 1-2" further apart than these frames allow, but I think it still reaches suitable spots.

You'll want to use the 3" rubber blocks (the taller ones) otherwise you will smash the little plastic fin that sits in front of the rear lift points. I positioned the rubber blocks as far back and as far forward as they would go, respectively, and along the outside edge of the pans. The rubber blocks in the rear were turned to the left-right axis of the car, and the blocks in the front were oriented along the front-back axis of the car. This was primarily because the contact patch for the lift points is a little bit of a different shape when front is compared to rear.

In terms of setup, watch the official YouTube video but don't put plumbers tape on the 90 degree fittings (either end) that screw into the hydraulic cylinders. Those fittings aren't designed to use plumbers tape and may actually be more prone to leaking with it applied. Operation was erratic until I stood the frames on end and bled the hydraulic cylinders (watch the video). After that, very smooth.

The other weird thing is that my pump was completely filled with less than two quarts of ATF, and all of the instructions say you'll get into a third quart before it's full. I guess mine must've had some leftover fluid from testing at the factory? I nearly made a mess because it wasn't even watching the level as I poured the second quart in. Got lucky when spidey sense told me to peek.





passenger rear from behind 3/4


passenger rear from side (shows the flap you will crush if you use the 2" blocks instead)


passenger front from 3/4 behind

 

I don't think so. The block would still have to be in front of the plastic fin that sits forward of the rear lift point. I think this might be some sort of pre-market prototype anyway as there is no locking bar which secures the frames into the first or second position. The frames are also reversed; the manual indicates that the stickers go toward the front of the car. I don't know for certain but it seems like the geometry would matter for stability because the frames open into a rhombus with overhang on the front but not the rear.

 

Tried out my new Quickjack today on the neighbors RAV 4 to rotate her tires. The jacks were easy to position but I needed to use the special pinch weld blocks to lift the car. They are a royal PITA to properly position as the jacking cylinders don't quite go up the same amount for properly aligning the blocks with the pinch weld lift points. Once they were aligned (after a considerable amount of time fiddling around) the jack worked perfectly and the tire rotation actually took less time than setting up the jacks. Overall I am still pleased with the purchase but will avoid using the pinch weld blocks in the future if I can.