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I just broke 2 lug nuts on my right rear tire on my 2016 F-type S AWD (US - driver side on left). I stopped there and have not touched the other 3 lugs yet.
This is a case where the base of the nut is still on the lug stud, and so now it seems I have to drill out the lug studs. I do not know yet what will happen when I go after the other 3 lug nuts, I just sprayed them with Liquid Wrench to soak and stopped for now. I was able to get the other three tires and all their lug nuts loose.
The goal of this project was just to loosen the lugs and check torque back proper to 92 ft-lbs.
So next I'll be looking at having to replace the lug studs or hub of the back right wheel. I am not sure what wheel studs to use for replacement, but I did find some places to get a rear hub (do these look good?)... 16 2016 Jaguar F Type Wheel Hub Assembly - Driveshaft & Axle - Centric, Genuine, Timken, Front, Rear - PartsGeek Rear Wheel Hub For 09-20 Jaguar F Type XF XFR S XJ XJR XJR575 XK XKR Base DG89X1 | eBay
I'm not a super car mechanic, and I may have to go to a shop for these next steps, but I at least want to get the parts on hand for the repair.
I mean I can do my own brakes and remove the break disks ect...
Can I just get the lug studs, or should I get the rear wheel hub (about $230 US)?
If I can find just the proper lug studs how hard would it be to hammer out the old studs and seat new ones (I have seen some videos on how the seat lug studs).
If I have to replace the hub, how hard would it be to get the old hub off and install the new one?
Thank you for any input you can share (sometimes you just have to STOP and ask for help!)
Last edited by TheMark38; Sep 3, 2022 at 10:13 AM.
It's easy enough to replace a broken stud. Replacements cost about $10-15, plus the labor (if you don't do it yourself). For sure, don't drive any distance/speed with 2 missing.
Here's decent link that's pretty easy to follow...
The 2 studs are not broken, the lug nuts broke leaving the threaded base of the nuts on the studs. I have another idea I'm going to try first and that is to use a new set of Tungsten Carbide Dremel bits to whittle away on two sides of the lug base that remains on the studs, when tap apart with my small chisel. If this works, I will not have to replace the studs at all. If this does not work or if I damage the stud threads, I do have 10 new studs on the way (found them for only $2.50 each at Summit).
Sorry, I was thinking studs and you clearly stated "Lug Nuts". I have seen the stainless covers sheer off the nuts, but never a lug nut break at the base. I can't imagine how tough this is going to be especially with the wheel being on the car. Very little clearance and not damaging the wheel or the stud. Good Luck. Post pictures if possible, Would like to see your end result.
Sorry, I was thinking studs and you clearly stated "Lug Nuts". I have seen the stainless covers sheer off the nuts, but never a lug nut break at the base. I can't imagine how tough this is going to be especially with the wheel being on the car. Very little clearance and not damaging the wheel or the stud. Good Luck. Post pictures if possible, Would like to see your end result.
Is there anyway you could take a deep socket slightly smaller 12 point instead of 6 point, and hammer it around what's left of the wheel nuts and use an impact wrench to get them off ??? I know this is how you get tamper proof nuts off when you've lost the keyed adapter. Just a thought.
When the two lug nuts broke off, they broke at the base of the nut. These are what broke off.
This is the inside of the lug that broke off.
This is what is left of the lug nut on the wheel stud
The other 3 lug nuts are still stuck on the wheel, I've just been feeding them a bit of Liquid Wrench every day, but still they will not budge. I am not forcing them as much as the two that broke. Just using a long manual lug wrench.
Last edited by TheMark38; Sep 5, 2022 at 05:11 PM.
Wondering the method you used to try to remove the lug nuts.
I managed to break a stud off using a breaker bar and was told the best method was to use an impact wrench…apparently better to have the “shock” rather than a steady pressure.
Wow... I've never seen this before. I did replace my Jaguar lugs with new solid chrome lugs. Live in Arizona so don't have to worry about corrosion... Good luck, you have a really unique problem....
ps. I did buy an electric impact wrench from Amazon on sale for 70 dollars plus a set of deep well impact sockets... Has worked to take wheels off for the past couple of years. I use a torque wrench to do the final tightening. The impact wrench even broke loose an anode rod from my hot water heater. Wish I had bought one years ago...
I do have an impact wrench, but I am doing manual for now. Seems more folks have broken wheel studs with an impact wrench.
Next weekend I will back the Jag to the driveway (I have the world's smallest garage), get her up on my QuickJack, and then brute force (whatever it takes, manual or impact wrench) the other 3 lugs, and then drill out or Dremel around the studs. I should have all I need to deal with this (I hope). I had read so much about folks dealing with over torqued lugs on these chrome capped lugs, I'm so glad I thought I should check these. I already had to chisel off one chrome cap of one lug (then I got that nut off fine). I replaced that lug with a new solid (21 mm) lug nut, and I now have ALL new solid lugs also on the way.
When installing the lugs- I would only ever use my torque wretch set to 92 ft/lbs.
Last edited by TheMark38; Sep 5, 2022 at 06:06 PM.
Is there anyway you could take a deep socket slightly smaller 12 point instead of 6 point, and hammer it around what's left of the wheel nuts and use an impact wrench to get them off ??? I know this is how you get tamper proof nuts off when you've lost the keyed adapter. Just a thought.
Yep, that is what several have done over on the Pommy forum and I have seen some YouTube vids using this method from both amateur and professional mechanics.
Usually works but sometimes doesn't work and then the busted lug nut needs to be drilled out.
While out doing other things I stopped by my local Tire & Auto Shop and I showed them the above photos, they said they could help. As the 3 remaining lugs were just stuck, and the base of the 2 broke lugs were still tight on the wheel studs I was able to drive the Jag just fine to the shop.
Once in the shop the 3 stuck lugs came off finally with their air hammer wrench (Win #1) which I could not do with my battery lug wrench. Then they notched into the base of the broken lugs bases and zipped them off with the air wrench and smaller hardened socket (Win #2). The whole process only took 20 mins and only cost $20!
Remember, this was NOT a just a case of rounded lug nuts, the WHOLE main body of the lug nut broke off, leaving just the last threaded base of the lug, and the lug washer on the wheel stud.
My main point to share here (unless your still under a JAG Warranty of course) is CHECK YOUR NUTS MATES! Get these chrome capped lugs in the garbage (moisture gets trapped under the chrome cap), switch to solid lug nuts (mine changed from 19mm to 21mm) and only ever HAND torque to 92 ft/lbs.
Don't replace with Acorn style lugs if that is not what is on your Jag wheels, I replaced mine with these lugs...
A lot of people went with the solid one-piece (the stock ones are two piece - a nut with a chrome cover) chrome lug nuts from Gorilla (you can also get black too). I got some of the chrome ones and they are really nice but they are a tad taller than stock. Photo below.
Did you discuss with the tech the wisdom of using an impact wrench vs, manual with a long extension.
clearly he used the impact wrench but I wondered if he told you “why”
Rear Broken Lug Nuts - 2016 F-Type S AWD
