Apologies in advance as I suspect this information is already parked somewhere, but I couldn't find it in search. I'm want to take my 16 R Coupe to the track. I've been to VIR and Dominion here in VA but with different cars (much lighter, RWD). Probably going back to VIR in a month or two. Any advice from folks who have gone before me on what tweaks/settings might work well? Looking at tire pressures and front/back pressures, brake pads, tires...maybe even some insights on what the car's like at around 7 to 8 tenths. I'm not into drifting or abusing the thing, and not trying to turn into into a track machine... just want some clean lapping. Thanks in advance, and again, sorry if I missed this stuff in search.

 

[QUOTE=YRS;2431859]Apologies in advance as I suspect this information is already parked somewhere, but I couldn't find it in search. I'm want to take my 16 R Coupe to the track. I've been to VIR and Dominion here in VA but with different cars (much lighter, RWD). Probably going back to VIR in a month or two. Any advice from folks who have gone before me on what tweaks/settings might work well? Looking at tire pressures and front/back pressures, brake pads, tires...maybe even some insights on what the car's like at around 7 to 8 tenths. I'm not into drifting or abusing the thing, and not trying to turn into into a track machine... just want some clean lapping. Thanks in advance, and again, sorry if I missed this stuff in search.[/QUOTEI
I was invited to SPEED VEGAS in Sin City sponsored
by JLR Las Vegas with my '17 V6S Vert.
I have piloted Nitro Fuel Altered, NFC and Nitro Harley over the years but never tracked on a road course
competitively.
I UPGRADED TODAY TO VAP LOWER PULLEY and STAGE 2 TUNE. My signature reflects additional mods.
I also would dig some info and advice..

Shout out to Chris, Stuart and Laura at VAP and UNHNGD for their support and assist in my upgrade today.
SPARKY....

 

Here’s an old JLR doc on tracking the F-type…
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwcg2spgeb...10851.pdf?dl=0

 

Thank you DJS....The intro was spot on. I appreciate ya Sir.

 

Still wish the CCB brake ducts were around, or at least an aftermarket solution other than DIY Home Depot... Makes me nervous to track mine...

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ is a good source for brake ducting hoses, but I believe like many of the Porsche products, the F type have plastic air scoops to direct air to the brakes.

I suggest changing your fluid out for something with a higher boiling point. If you've already done that a little while ago, make sure the fluid at the calipers is fresh. After a track day, I always bleed out any fluid that was in the calipers in case it's been boiled/overheated. Make sure you're on good (somewhat new) oil for your engine, diff and trans. Check your brake pads and rotors. Re-torque your wheels, then again when your arrive at the track. Typical track prep stuff.

 

Great info, thank you! First high performance car and I am new to all this. Will be looking into a DIY cooling for the CCB, there has to be a reason Jaguar says to duct the cooling other than the fins so I will follow that advice. Wouldnt want to spend $1500 on 2 Jaguar TM* ducts anyways lol.

 

It looks like the brake ducts mentioned in their article have been discontinued. There is a different style available (possibly a superseded part), but they are specifically noticed for the carbon ceramic brakes. Not sure if you have them or not.

The number for the original ducts mentioned are:
T2R15214 and T2R15213
superseded parts are:
T2R10498 and T2R10497

and again, this is for the carbon ceramic brakes.

Info I found was here:

https://www.jaguarparts.com/v-2015-j...--front-brakes

They do also mention a cooling duct for the AWD 355mm brakes, but when I clicked on the item, it seems to cover all F-Types:

2021 Jaguar F-Type Base, First Edition, R, R-Dynamic 2.0L L4 - Gas, 3.0L V6 - Gas, 5.0L V8 - Gas 2020 Jaguar F-Type Base, Checkered Flag, R, R-Dynamic, SVR 2.0L L4 - Gas, 3.0L V6 - Gas, 5.0L V8 - Gas 2019 Jaguar F-Type Base, R, R-Dynamic, SVR 2.0L L4 - Gas, 3.0L V6 - Gas, 5.0L V8 - Gas 2018 Jaguar F-Type 400 Sport, Base, R, R-Dynamic, SVR 2.0L L4 - Gas, 3.0L V6 - Gas, 5.0L V8 - Gas 2017 Jaguar F-Type Base, British Design Edition, Premium, R, S, SVR 3.0L V6 - Gas, 5.0L V8 - Gas 2016 Jaguar F-Type Base, Project 7, R, S 3.0L V6 - Gas, 5.0L V8 - Gas 2015 Jaguar F-Type Base, R, S, V8 S 3.0L V6 - Gas, 5.0L V8 - Gas 2014 Jaguar F-Type Base, S, V8 S 3.0L V6 - Gas, 5.0L V8 - G

 

Correct, I have the CCB option on my '15 F-Type R RWD.

I hadnt seen they have a superseded product that you mentioned, so I will likely go that route! thank you very much for that! Still seems like quite the difference between a full on duct replacement from one of the front intakes to just a little fin to redirect air...

 

Thanks very much...good jumping off point...

 

Also…
The first track day I did, I showed up with less than 1/2 tank of gas, thinking less weight was good. I decided to leave before the end of the day, and noticed I was about out of gas! Don’t forget to check the gas gauge occasionally.

 

For tire pressures, either go to the website of the tire manufacture or contact them. Most tires have different cold pressures for starting. Don't chase hot tire pressure. **EDIT** make sure they are track day settings, not street.

I got 4.5 MPG on my day. That was 81 miles before the tank was empty. DO NOT RUN RACE GAS!!! Run good old 91 and if at all possible, gett it down the street. It will be more expensive at the track.

You will experience body roll and it may feel like the car is at its very limit. It has a lot more to go, but this is not your track car, so don't throw it away trying to find the very edge.

People will be faster than you in slower cars. That miata that you just passed in the straight will come by you in the corners like she's immortal. Don't get sucked in, drive your own drive.

Seek out and find a coach right away. Get the lines, the Entry Points, Apex and Exit points for each corner. These will be your lifeblood. Brake markers come later.

I always bring a notebook so I can write down things after each session, like reference points for corners, especially blind ones, and things that work/don't work.

My final advice is to leave it in Auto mode/Sport/Dynamic. There are lots of things to concentrate on and the Jag's transmission does surprisingly well. You can concentrate on your driving more if you don't have to worry about what gear you are in.

 

I would be carful with this statement. I understand what I believe you are trying to say (don't try chasing ideal hot tire pressures every day before you go). However, the driver should be paying attention to hot tire pressures while at the track and adjusting what is needed (whether up or down depending on the amount of pressure gained during the session).

 

Respectfully, and acknowledging your credentials, I disagree, and here's why.

We're talking a first track day, not a seasoned driver or a race. Cold tire pressures from the manufacturer will generally get right to where they need to be hot. If he's going at 4/10 pace and sets the hot tire pressure there and then suddenly gets to 8/10 pace, that's a problem. I set the pressure (much like my suspension) to the lap speeds I want to reach. It's better to have pressure set for 8/10 driving than 4/10.
The wheels will get hot! Checking using the cars TPS will likely be a joke and you can burn your fingers trying to get a good pressure test.
He'll be chasing one more variable. As you know, changes to one thing can have compound effects. I like to work on one thing at a time so I know what changes are making a positive difference. If I'm working on tire pressures, that's all I'm working on. No other changes.

When I was racing, I learned to trust the consistency of the tires I had. Each brand took drastically different cold settings. Once I got confidence in the tire, I always set it to cold pressure for race pace, even if I was instructing in C Group.

 

I will agree to disagree. There are way too many variables to assume a single tire pressure will work for all ambient conditions. The cold pressures that most tires recommend (street tires that is, not competition tires) are for street driving which doesn't put nearly the same amount of heat in the tires. This is one of the first areas (after the basic 'what are the three parts of a turn') that my program use to work with the drivers on. The instructors would have them look at the their tire pressures after every session. They will drop a bit between the cool down lap and getting to the paddock but it's usually only around 2 PSI that is lost. Having someone running around the track with their pressures at say 46 PSI hot when they perform better at 36 PSI makes them believe their car has a problem (not to mention uneven wear on the tires).

 

Vik, great advice...will take every bit of it. Thanks.

 

Listen to Mahjik, too. He knows what he is talking about and he has reminded me that I needed to put one HUGE caveat in my statement: You need to go with track day tire pressure, not street. I set my tires significantly lower when on the track. If I remember correctly, I started off with about 31 psi in both the front and the rear.

 

I Agree, there are to many variables out there.
Tracking my own 2015 R we found start cold at 32PSI after the 1st session check pressure and view the Tyre shoulder ( some performance tires have an arrow to show maximum foot print) The best device for rapid checking and inflation is a cordless Dewalt pump, we found 29 to 30PSI to be the optimum pressure running Goodyear F1 305s on the rear with 20mm spacers also leave in auto sport mode for at least 2nd session with all TC off.