Hello guys.

Living in Korea isn't good in this regard as there aren't many infos and owners of jaguar f type.

I drive p380(3.0s) and want to put additional power on it.
I still have warranty.

What is the most popular way of gaining additional power on my engine?
changing pulley?

What do the owners first do to reach this point normaly?

I don't have much desire just want to run with stock BMW M2 ( my friend drives it and always he bullies me cause it's faster)

 

No question the hands down winner "bang for your buck" while still being safe is a VAP (or Eurotoys) crank pulley & tune.
Takes your V6 to 450 bhp for not a lot of $, a bit under $2000 US plus some postage to Korea, see here: F-Type V6S Coupe
450 bhp seems to be about the safe limit for the V6 without spending big $ on internal mods and/or a bigger supercharger (which has never been done anyway).
Here's a better (more specific) link: http://www.velocityap.com/Jaguar-Lan...pev6cptune.htm

 

+1, I just installed the VAP tune without the crank pulley (pulley install after new year) but just the tune has a noticeable difference on the butt dyno.

 

Changing the top supercharger pulley will gain 20 peak HP and 30 HP maximum. It will void your warranty if they discover it. If you are taking the car in for unrelated warranty service it is unlikely they will discover it, but if you have engine problems they will definitely discover it because the smaller pulley looks different.

To tune the car under warranty you only have one option which is Racehip.com. I use Racechip for the V8 and it works great with no issues. I get the exact amount of HP claimed, but realize that they advertise maximum HP gains not peak HP gains.

You will have to remove the harness whenever you take the car to the dealer. The first time it might take an hour to install/reinstall. With practice it takes 5-10 minutes.

You can use Racechip plus an upper supercharger pulley with no issues and additive gains. But changing the lower pully requires a firmware tune which voids your warrany.

 

Tune like VAP will void your warranty. It is also not entirely risk free. Read about downsides of tuning.

 

Hey man, sorry for out of topic, but do you have a white F-Type in Busan?

 

The OP's got a V6, which means fitting a smaller top SC pulley is a waste of time, money and effort as Lance has explained many a time.
Yes a Racechip can be removed to avoid warranty claim hassles but it won't get you to the 450 bhp that is needed to run with an M2, only a larger crank pulley + tune will do that. The VAP pulley & tune has proven to be rock solid with lots of happy customers and I have never read or heard of an engine problem being caused or exacerbated by a VAP tune, so as long as the OP keeps a close eye on the oil level, the coolant level and the engine temp and doesn't go crazy on the track (if he tracks it at all) then IMHO there is almost no chance of a catastrophic engine failure and denied warranty claim. I would also recommend changing the oil twice as often as scheduled, eg every six months.
That said I applied just the VAP tune first while the car was still in warranty then the day after the warranty expired I had the crank pulley fitted, just to play safe. I only had to wait four months so the pain was bearable!
As the saying goes, "yer pays yer money and yer takes yer chances", so it's the OP's choice now.

 

My Racehip is on a still warrantied V8 S. It advertises max gains under the curve of +72 HP and thats exactly what I see in dyno results, on top of a SC pulley.

The V6 S version advertises +76 HP so maybe around 50 average WHP for 430-ish. I have never tried it so I can't say if thats realistic for a V6, it seems a little high.

Good point about the smaller V6 S pulley. For the lower cost and decent HP, it seems Racechip is a good option for a warrantied car.

 

Hi guys,
I' ve been thinking also for Racechips,
I drove BMW Z4 and AMG CLA 45 and had them with Raceship,
A bit of difference was found but not satisfactory.
Which is why I am looking for the other method.

I contact Stuart at Velocity where I had purchased lowering spring a few month ago.
And he said special tool is required as mine is 2019 onward.
They loan it out to the customer at 1500 usd and day charge could happen in delay.

As I am living in Korea, I think this couldn't be possible..

I need to think other way or give up..



First edition BMW M2 has 370HP it's faster than 380HP of our 3.0s, right?

 

$1500 US a day doesn't sound right, I would check with Stuart again.

 

Sounds more like a security deposit.

 

If Stuart has a challenge with the 2019's ECU's and up, the others likely won't have a solution at all yet.

 

It is interesting to hear that JLR decided to improve ECU security - I guess they had one too many lease returns where tuners damaged the engine or maybe someone at JLR came across Charlie Miller & Chris Valasek work.

An IT solution, where all ECU maps and images must be signed by a JLR key, would completely lock out tuners. Considering that latest JLR cars are now internet connected, with over-the-air updates capability, not doing some kind of image integrity check is irresponsible from security standpoint.

 

Here is accessible video of their presentation. TL;DR - identify an internet-connected car by looking for cell-connected devices with certain signatures, remotely attack infotainment system using exploit to access and rewrite code, pivot to controller connected directly to CANBUS, send arbitrary control signals to CANBUS allowing you to manipulate all control and display systems, including emergency braking, and drive-by-wire.

 

not for a day , for a week

 

I think I get it now.
The cost of the pulley and tune (or maybe just the tune) is $1500 US and you have the use of the tuning tool for a week, any longer than a week to return it and you are charged extra at a daily rate.
Which could make it tight returning it from as far away as Korea.

 

Its going to depend on the tune.

Draggy has a verified VAP tuned AWD Jag V6 S (450 hP) 0-60 at 4.01 secs.

There is a tuned FBO 2019 M2 Competition (~500 HP) at 3.92 secs.

 

From 2018MY the ECU hardware was changed across the board by JLR. 2018MY and newer cannot be flashed via the OBD port, the ECU has to be removed and flashed on the bench, hence the "special tools".

So there is not much difference between sending a tool to the car, or sending the ECU to the tool.

If the car can sit for a week or two, you might as well send the ECU out to be flashed.

With the newer flash tools, it's not necessary to crack open the case of the ECU, it can be flashed by connecting to the socket itself.

 

>>> Never been done? <<< LOL

 

Hi Nz, No I drive black with Red top.