Hi my 2005 xtype 2ltrd was fine yesterday then today I started it and it run for 2 sec then died! I read on here someone had pretty much same thing happened and was told to try changing Fuse#92 in glove box and it worked for them!
I've had a look at mine but my fusebox is a different layout and I was wondering if anyone can help me if they know the equivalent fuse it may be on my 2ltrd 2005 xtype please. If so until I can get a new Fuse, is there maybe one I can safely change just to get my son to school in morning? Thanks

 

Welcome to the forums Leeshep,

According to the Electrical Guide in JTIS (Jaguar Technical Information System) the X-Type fuses don't go up to #92. Post a link to the thread you were reading which could give a clue which circuit this fuse is protecting.

Graham

 

Jamlaw125 posted 17/05/2009
sorry m8 don't know how to send linkThanks

 

Don't know how to do links I just Google search 2003 xtype crank no start and it was there, sorry

 

xtype 03, will crank but wont start
xtype 03, will crank but wont start

 

Leeshep, you need to look at fuse F26 in the passenger compartment fuse box. That is the same fuse. That fuse powers the circuit in the J-gate that tells the ECU that the car is either in PARK or NEUTRAL to allow the car to start.

 

Fuse was good. Believe it or not it started after jump leads were on for around 10 min.
but it's making a noise like barrings in a tin can. It didn't make that noise the last time I drove it. But then it wouldn't start. Now that noise. It drives but embarrassing and loud.
Any ideas please

 

Leeshep, well, based on the string of events, I would be looking at your alternator. Something you can try is removing the serpentine belt momentarily to see if the noise goes away with the belt off. If so, then I would be looking really hard at the alternator. After that, your best bet will be to get a piece of say 1cm tubing (about 1-2 meters in length) and simply take the end of the tube and stick it in various holes around the engine (keep away from moving parts as much as practical) and stick the other end up to your ear. As you get the tip of the tube near the sound, it will get louder. You can then narrow down where in the engine bay the noise is coming from.

 

The metres reading 14.15?

 

Leeshep, but if you have a failure in the diode complex, that can cause a load on the battery when the car is off. Kinda like, if the bearings are starting to go in the alternator, it will output a good voltage, but those bearings are slowly eating themselves and that his the noise that you are hearing. But, like I said, it is just a suspicion. a sounding rod (metal rod that you put on the bone behind your ear and the other end against something solid in the car) or the tube that you can put into various parts of the engine. You use that to isolate where the noise is coming from. Right now, based on what you have said (engine making a noise), it can be too many things to just start saying "replace this". But, based on having to put the car on jumper cables for 10 minutes to get it to start and having a noise under the hood, the most likely would be the alternator. But, we could be dealing with a cause and effect thing here, so, hence the narrow down where the noise is coming from.

 

I really appreciate you getting back to me. Wow... I parked up went out couple of hours later and it started, the noise had totally gone and the longer I went I kept thinking to good to be true! Low and behold when I turned it off, and tried to start again it wouldn't. When I turned the key it just makes a horrible high pitched screech! I have to bump it to start it now. Even jump leads don't start, it just makes that high pitched screech! I have to bump start but the ratling noise has totally gone! Do you think it may be starter motor?
thanks 👍

 

Leeshep, it is possible. That is where the sounding rod/tygon tube will narrow down where the noise is coming from. If it is coming from near the starter, then that most likely is it. If it is coming from by the alternator, I would look there first. This is where the serpentine belt test would also rule out one of the two likely components (ie, the alternator, leaving you the starter).

 

Thank you my m8.
watch this space!