Has anybody tried mixing Acetone 50/50 with ATF to make their own penetrating fluid ?


If so, was it successful ? Or just another internet myth ?

 

Use it as my go-to when deep creep doesn't do it.

Acetone thins out the dexron and allows it to draw into the threads and evaporates faster, leaving the lube behind.

Have taken apart rusty chassis' left on lawns for years (which really rusts them nicely from the moisture evaporating from the grass) using it.

YMMV. Just my experience.

 

That was my reasoning on how it would/should work, but sometimes my reasoning can be a bit off. LOL

 

getting ready to take apart a rear suspension, so ...

a few drops of "oil of wintergreen" left for a few minutes, or overnight has a good
reputation. apparently it was common in the US Navy, but even though still
common today, it is kept under lock and key. there are also Navy guys
that swear by Tabasco sauce for rusted deck bolts.

beeswax applied to a heated joint is an old one that has a good reputation.

there are also:

- ed's red which is acetone + atf + other stuff

- power steering fluid + acetone

- brake fluid + atf

- radiator coolant sprayed overnight, the choice of a parts puller in a New Mexico
scrap yard.

 

Several reports on the forum of success with this mixture and certainly better than any proprietary penetrating fluid we can buy in the UK.

US members praise KANO Kroil as the penetrating fluid of choice but I've never been able to find a European supplier.

Graham

 

Does it need actual acetone or will acetone substitute do? (I think it's acetone that can be awkward to buy.)

Is it that it needs the wetting (aka creep) property, as I think is needed (as well as being thin), and if so does the substitute also have that?

 

I am going to have to search for some rusty, seized up nuts and bolts and try it.


That will be my next mission.... after I have cleaned the car for its trip to (hopefully) sunny Brighton on Sunday.

 

Shiny Hardware Limited, on Amazon, they sell 1 litre bottles in the UK.
£8.49 inc free delivery.


Just in case anybody wants some.

 

Works great and has a delicious aroma.....but rather expensive which in turn makes it a little hard to find even in the USA.


Cheers
DD

 

A nice smell is always a bonus, but as long as the stuff ( either proprietary or home brew ) works, I am not too fussed.


A lot of the fluids we have to deal with in the maintenance of vehicles do not have a nice bouquet.

 

Please post again when you have results.

If it's sunny it'll also be COLD

 

Oil of wintergreen. Most of the premium penetrating oils have some in it.

 

I think that's aka eucalyptus oil as in Vick's lol

 

No.

methyl salicylate ... a close relative of aspirin. Not Vick's, but you'll find it
in Tiger Balm.

it absorbs through the skin, so gloves should be worn ... unless you happen to need
a huge dose of aspirin at the time.

peppermint oil is also said to be effective.

 

I've used the Aerokroil with good results, I've had better results with PB Blaster, on the car and at work.

Melted candle wax works wonders on tough to remove nuts.

 

I have 35+ years working in the offshore oil and gas industry, where every thing gets a salt bath. Even our cars and trucks sitting at the docks exhibit excessive rust similar to what salting the roads up north do. I have used every thing mentioned so far in this thread including the wintergreen oil. Marvel Mystery oil smells like it has some of that in it. But the best I have ever used to break out super rusty frozen nuts, bolts, injectors, packings, exhaust pipes, couplings, and you name it, is WATER. Water made it rust, and rust is water soluble. Take a 1" piece of steel and it will turn into 10" of rust if you let it. That's why it gets so tight. Water penetrates better than oil, has no smell, & leaves no stains, (usually). Nobody is going to bitch about you wasting too much of it, and the price is better than right, it's perfect. The only trick about it is you need to learn how to use it. Then after you use it, get rid of it, and seal it off to keep it out.
The trick is to soak the part, or heat the part then soak it. I like to first try to pressure wash it, and while it's wet, rap on it with a small hammer or a vibratory tool, then pressure wash it again and again and keep rapping on it till it breaks loose only slightly. Once you get it to move, then use your favorite penetrate or dilute light oil to finish the job.