Use of borescopes
#1
Use of borescopes
Does anyone have any experience in using borescopes to inspect engine cavities, etc? Is it worth the while? I'm looking into purchasing a 'medium' use one; I'm not a pro and would not like to spend huge sums for one.
Original intention is to use it to inspect the interior of the engine-transmission bell housing of a 2008 XKR for an oil leak, but I suppose I can find lots of other uses for it.
Are their any opinions on their usability and possibly any recommended brands/prices?
Cheers.
Original intention is to use it to inspect the interior of the engine-transmission bell housing of a 2008 XKR for an oil leak, but I suppose I can find lots of other uses for it.
Are their any opinions on their usability and possibly any recommended brands/prices?
Cheers.
#2
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ejjbee, for what you are looking at doing, I would say that you would be better off renting a unit when you need it. The boroscopes can get expensive. Specifically, if you are looking at one, you definitely want one with a light on the end of the boroscope. This makes a world of a difference. Also, it is beneficial to have one that allows remote bending of the end of the probe.
I have used a lot of boroscopes for work when looking at safety penetrations for electrical wiring. As for brand A over Brand B, the big thing is to look at the resolution of the camera and the size of the screen. If you are only using say a 320x240 camera, then a 3" screen is more than adequate and going with a higher resolution camera is not going to benefit you. It is all in what you are willing to spend. Also, a color camera is going to cost more, but is also better in definition and being able to see what you want.
I have used a lot of boroscopes for work when looking at safety penetrations for electrical wiring. As for brand A over Brand B, the big thing is to look at the resolution of the camera and the size of the screen. If you are only using say a 320x240 camera, then a 3" screen is more than adequate and going with a higher resolution camera is not going to benefit you. It is all in what you are willing to spend. Also, a color camera is going to cost more, but is also better in definition and being able to see what you want.
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ejjbee (09-20-2012)
#3
Thanks Thermo. Unfortunately I don't think I would be find one available for rent where I live, so I'm looking at getting hold of a 'lower' end one, rather than the professional ones. I've seen the likes of Snapon ones which costs a few 00's rather than thousands. I would agree that colour is definitely a must, plus having at least a 90degree mirror, plus illumination as well as the resolution. I suspect the 'articulated' ones (which would have the facility to rotate the camera tip) would be way too expensive to consider. I think I would set a budget of some US$300-400.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
#4
I was looking at the ones sold at Lowes and some in online catalogs and on most of the low end camera types, the head is too large to go in a spark plug hole. They're really designed for an electrician to drill a 3/4" hole in a wall. If you look online, they do sell "old-fashioned" borescopes with just an eyepiece that have much smaller tubes designed for engine inspection in the same price range. I've never used one but I hope to have one in my toolbox someday.
#5
True pdupler; from what I can see on the net, I would possible look at the following specs:
1 - probe thickness: around 5mm
2 - semi rigid probe
3 - length: 1m
4 - probe illumination (preferably UV for leak detection)
5 - camera resolution: at least 70k pixels (possibly more), colour
6 - video capability and still capture
7 - ability to store on removable memory
8 - 90degree mirror on probe
9 - wide angle: more than 50degrees?
10 - good focussing depth
11 - variable illumination
12 - 7cms colour display
Brands which are showing up (though I have no experience of, of course) are Sealey, Snap-on, Fibrescope, Draper, Extech ... still need to do some evaluation though but if any of you have any views/comments on the above and brands, do let me know.
1 - probe thickness: around 5mm
2 - semi rigid probe
3 - length: 1m
4 - probe illumination (preferably UV for leak detection)
5 - camera resolution: at least 70k pixels (possibly more), colour
6 - video capability and still capture
7 - ability to store on removable memory
8 - 90degree mirror on probe
9 - wide angle: more than 50degrees?
10 - good focussing depth
11 - variable illumination
12 - 7cms colour display
Brands which are showing up (though I have no experience of, of course) are Sealey, Snap-on, Fibrescope, Draper, Extech ... still need to do some evaluation though but if any of you have any views/comments on the above and brands, do let me know.
#6
Does anyone have any experience in using borescopes to inspect engine cavities, etc? Is it worth the while? I'm looking into purchasing a 'medium' use one; I'm not a pro and would not like to spend huge sums for one.
Original intention is to use it to inspect the interior of the engine-transmission bell housing of a 2008 XKR for an oil leak, but I suppose I can find lots of other uses for it.
Are their any opinions on their usability and possibly any recommended brands/prices?
Cheers.
Original intention is to use it to inspect the interior of the engine-transmission bell housing of a 2008 XKR for an oil leak, but I suppose I can find lots of other uses for it.
Are their any opinions on their usability and possibly any recommended brands/prices?
Cheers.
If you look on *bay there's lots to choose from starting very cheap to very expensive.
Your leak is 99% a rear main oil seal failure.
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ejjbee (09-20-2012)
#7
Thanks Sean; I'm looking at ebay in fact; thanks for the diagnosis as well, a good (is there any such one in this circumstance ) chance is that it's a rear main seal.
Have you ever come across a failed seal between the structural sump/bedplate/cylinder block or worst still a fracture in that part of the engine? I'm looking at the very very worst, true, but that's the way I am
Cheers.
Have you ever come across a failed seal between the structural sump/bedplate/cylinder block or worst still a fracture in that part of the engine? I'm looking at the very very worst, true, but that's the way I am
Cheers.
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