Hi I just got an X type 2.5 V6 manual 2001 after years driving a company car. I appreciate its an old car and so I expect niggles, plus I'm think I'm still driving it like a diesel - what is the optimum rev range?
But, after working fine for about 3 weeks I suddenly get a washer low warning, and now when I add fluid I get wet feet!
I downloaded the workshop manual (and that impressed my workmates!) and it implies I at least need remove the FR wheel and arch cover to proceed. However it would be useful to identify the problem prior to this.
Since it has worked fine previously I assume it is a tube split or come adrift, is it practical to identify the issue just by putting it on a ramp or using e.g. a borescope type camera?
Any suggestions gratefully received.

 

Harvey, the question for accessing the washer container is how much you want to see. If you only pull the wheel arch, looking at the bottle will result in very little that you can see. If you remove the bumper cover, you will be able to see practically everything. Removing the bumper cover is not too bad. Will take you about 30 minutes to remove the bumper cover once you figure out the 2 hidden bolts on the bumper cover (1 on each side between the the side marker light and the wheel well, it is a 10mm bolt).

If you have access to a boroscope camera, then you may be better off than most is what you need to remove to see things. But, you will still need to get your hands in there to fix whatever you find which may be easy, may be difficult.

As for the ideal RPM range, I would say that for the most part, you want to keep the car in the 2000-3000 RPM range. To maximize mileage, you will want to keep it in the 2250-2750 range. If you are looking to get some good acceleration, because you have the 2.5L motor, you are going to need to get it wound up to around 4000 RPM.

 

Thanks your reply, I am hoping to borrow a camera from a friend and hopefully identify what has failed and if I need any parts before committing to a fix... little more irritating than having to put everything back together again while waiting for some bits!
I had tentatively come to the conclusion that around 3000 RPM was around the most efficient from the power/torque graphs, but it certainly helps to have it confirmed by an experienced driver. Thanks again.

 

Do you mean that without operating the washers the foot well floods?
I am curious as i recall the bottle as not being close to the foot well.

I recently looked at my washer bottle by taking the road wheel off and a couple of screws holding the wheel arch liner. Not a problem to gently pull back the liner to give access to the bottle.
On mine the two pumps and the water level unit are easily accessed.
All just push into their holes in the side of the bottle.

I have seen reports of washer failure due to the pipe being trapped by the hood hinge. Could be a split there but would need the pump to operate to cause wet feet ?

 

My guess is he lost the seal on the low washer switch. It is just above the pump. or the pump itself. they just pop in and out. If you just remove the wheel liner you will be able to see the pump, line and low washer switch. all can be fixed without taking the bumper off. If any questions pm me and I will be happy to help.


Good luck,
The Dr!

 

Thanks for your replies, sorry I was not clear. When I add fluid in the washer neck, it immediately escapes onto the ground (thus causing the wet feet). I hope to get to check today, it sounds as if the wheel / liner route may be the easiest initally.

 

Please take some pictures to help other members who are faced with the same problem down the line

 

Ok, job done. Not a smooth ride and something of an anticlimax at the end, but at least it is fixed. Apologies for the quality of the pics!
Problem #1 was finding a sheltered space - lots of snow and wind about at the moment, managed to borrow works fork lift bay (tight on working room but at least sheltered and dry.
Problem #2 was finding the plastic tool to remove the locking wheel-nut cover was knackered.. a quick search of the car park revealed no similar cover on my co-workers cars, ruling out borrowing one. A quick call to the closest motor part dealer revealed they didn't stock them - note to self - scour internet later to get one or preferably a decent metal equivalent! Managed to release it using a 2mm allan key, working round and easing it up a bit at a time.
#3 the bottle jack I had was too big to fit under the jacking point and had to revert to the inherited scissor jack which was a tad rusty. Eased it a bit with some 3 in 1 and managed to get it high enough to get an axle stand in place.

So, the wheel was off, removed two plastic? screws using a large flat blade stubby screwdriver, one at the bottom holding 2 cover pieces together, the other high right on the front of the arch cover. This allowed the cover to be eased back from the rim of the arch sufficiently to see the problem.


Oops, is that pipe supposed to be flapping in the breeze? I think not!
I re-attached the offending pipe, it had a 'click' location that implied it should have held ok on it's own, however I decided an extra precaution wouldn't go amiss.



A cable tie looped around the pipe will hopefully stop it 'straying' in future!

Tested there were no other leaks, re-fitted the cover around the rim, fixed it back together, wheel back on ( liberally greasing the wheel-nuts - especially the locking nut which was quite rusty) and the problem appears to be fixed.

I never did get to use the borescope or ramps, in this particular case I think I may have been able to release and ease back the arch cover sufficiently without removing the wheel (they are 16" and there is a fair gap) or from under the car by removing the bottom cover.

So, a lesson I have learned on getting a new(old) car;
Check you can get the wheels off if you need to.. I would have been totally stuffed if I had a puncture! (do not normally carry a 2mm allen key!) and that the jack is fit for purpose.

and my next chore;
Get the rest of the locking nuts off, grease them up to make it easier in future - hopefully after getting the appropriate tool, and torque up all the wheel-nuts.

Thanks to everyone for their advice!

 

Thanks for the update and pictures
Torque values are for DRY threads.
Values for greased threads are lower. I have never seen figures quoted on the forum for greased threads.

 

Thanks henry k, I will keep the threads grease free. My major worry was that the rusting of the locking nuts would make the removal of the cover impossible, particularly with the rather flimsy tool supplied.
On a side note, has anyone come across a more rugged version?

 

henry, having a background in quality assurance and more training on torquing than I care to admit to. In short, the torque that you would need to set the lugnuts to would be a function of what grease/lubricant you used. Each lubricant has a different slipperiness to it. So, if you were to apply 10 different lubes to the same sort of joint and torqued them all to the same value, some would see more strain than others would. This is where I would need more info to give a specific value for what you are asking.

 

Thermo.
I had a feeling that there was no easy answer.
I was just aware that the torque value would/ should be less.


I know many have used copper grease ( Copaslip) rather than other grease and not reported any problems.

 

My major worry was that the rusting of the locking nuts would make the removal of the cover impossible, particularly with the rather flimsy tool supplied.
It is worth ensuring that the two parts are not seized . If the nuts are put on without use of an air gun and correctly torgued they should not be a problem.


On a side note, has anyone come across a more rugged version?
Many now consider the risk of getting X type wheels stolen is low so they discard the locking wheel nuts.
The wheels do not fit popular cars that are modified so not that attractive.
In my opinion, contrary to what many say, they do a great job.
The difficulties of removing them are a regular topic.
The usual removal tools do not appear to work as there is not enough of the nut for the tool to act on.
Jaguar still fit them.
Do note the letter stamped on the removal key. It is a single alpha but stamped several times. Check it is not lost or missed on collecting your car from a service.

 

Man, I wonder how that backed out enough to become disconnected? Usually when those things are on, they are on to stay. Did the hose seem to fit snug on the nipple? You don't hear about that issue every day on here. Glad it turned out to be an easy fix.

 

henry k, are you a prophet?

Went out to check the wheel nuts were all torqued up correctly and that I could remove the wheels if needed - hopefully I will need to shortly since I just ordered a set of winter wheels - armed with my improvised nut cover remover (see photo - top left why I couldn't use the proper tool, the lip had been completely trashed, top right a strip of 20mm by 120mm by 1.2mm steel bent to suit ) which worked surprisingly well.



Struggled to get the adapter on one of the locking nuts (and subsequently off again) cleaned some of the rust off them all and liberal application of 3-in-1 to the exterior of the nuts and interior of the covers.

Starting at the front, I was glad I checked 'cos they were woefully under tightened, so re-tightened to the recommended 103 Nm. (I remember actually thinking that it was actually quite fun to be working on the car after so long driving a company vehicle.)

Then I got to the rear wheels, both obviously changed at the same time and attached by a gorilla with a windy hammer. After much sweat and non-verbal cursing I succeeded in releasing 3 of the 4 remaining nuts, then (see bottom left of photo) I discovered why there are so many threads (as I now know) relating to broken wheel-nuts!

It was broke, no chance of getting the wheel off today, so just torqued up the rest and moved on to the next. This time I went the Impact route on the stiff nuts, (having discovered that the 'bargain' electric impact wrench kit I had bought ages ago just made a whirring sound without any useful effect I broke out the trusty hand version and a mallet) this at least did not result in another disaster and so 3 out of 4 wheels were up to speed.

So, having spent most the afternoon reviewing some of the excellent threads on this forum, I knocked up a guide that will hopefully allow me to drill out the remnants of the nut without it straying too much or needing the stud drilled (bottom right in photo).

My next question is: Am I better off just taking it to a professional tyre fitting place where I assume they get these quite frequently?

Alfadude, I don't know if it was just not fitted correctly when I got the car or if the weather we have had (alternating freezing and milder) just caused it to work loose. Certainly when I attached it again, I noticed a positive 'click' as it engaged and there was no sign of damage at the joint (the tie-wrap is a precaution). Believe me, I was glad it was a simple fix as well!!

 

Well done. I can see it was difficult but much better to sort it out at home rather than get stranded, towed home etc.
You will be able to enjoy your X type knowing that you can swop a wheel easily.
Next job ? Consider fitting an emergency boot release. Cost 10p and very little effort.