MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

1959 MK2 3.8 Restoration

 
  #41  
Old 02-06-2017, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Homersimpson View Post
Hi All,

Its been a while since I last updated the thread about the car, I bled the brakes last week but I have had a slight issue where two of the bleed valves appeared to leak even after they were tightened.

I have removed them and replaced with the originals which seemed to do the same.

I have reinstalled the new ones and tightened them even tighter and it apperars to have stopped but i'm not happy with how tight they are.

Rather stangely one of the leaking valves was on a new reproduction slave cylinder and the other was on a rebuilt original.

Has anyone else experienced this, i've never had any bleed valves leak before and on an automatic car with single circuit brakes its rather concerning!
What's the condition of the steel ball underneath the bleed screw, that's what does the "sealing" ?
Maybe you forgot the steel ball ???
 
  #42  
Old 02-06-2017, 04:03 PM
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Hi,

Mine dont have the steel ball, they have a point at the end. I've looked this up and the general consus is that they are interchangeable.
 
  #43  
Old 02-06-2017, 04:56 PM
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My guess is that the point at the end of your bleed screws had to be tightened down allot so it would seal where there normally would be steel ball.
This is just a guess, since I've never come across anything other then the steel ball system.

EDIT:
Had a look at SNG Barratt and XK's and I couldn't find any brakes that used the cone shaped bleed screws, they were all the steel ball type.
Where did you get the conical type from and where does it say they can be interchanged ?
 

Last edited by JeffR1; 02-06-2017 at 05:02 PM.
  #44  
Old 02-06-2017, 06:41 PM
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Brass bleeders should solve the problem. They work better on imperfections in the seats.
I had a problem with stainless on stainless. Brass against stainless solved the issue.
 
  #45  
Old 02-07-2017, 01:45 PM
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My understanding is that we should use a flats ended bleed nipple/screw that bears onto a ball. If you use a pointed screw, there is a risk of splitting the casting! I have never seen it myself - just gossip
 
  #46  
Old 02-07-2017, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffR1 View Post
My guess is that the point at the end of your bleed screws had to be tightened down allot so it would seal where there normally would be steel ball.
This is just a guess, since I've never come across anything other then the steel ball system.

EDIT:
Had a look at SNG Barratt and XK's and I couldn't find any brakes that used the cone shaped bleed screws, they were all the steel ball type.
Where did you get the conical type from and where does it say they can be interchanged ?
Hi, I bought the valves as a set from a trader at the Jaguar Spares days at Stoneleigh in the UK, I can remember who it was that sold them to me.
I've looked on the internet and found a few threads that indicated that they could be interchanged.

If its still leaking when I go to look at it later I will get a set of valves with the ***** and fit those unless anyone is able to advise whether they are interchangeable.
 
  #47  
Old 02-08-2017, 12:58 AM
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You may get away with a conical in place of a flat, but it is just luck, the seat that the nipple seals on is the same shape as the end of the nipple, that it how the seal is created.

Licksahotskillet is correct, using a softer brass nipple, can help seal imperfections on the seat, the softer brass will "mould" to the imperfections better.

Get nipples of the same shape and size as the originals, and if you are buying a new set get the brass ones, then you should be covered on all bases.
 

Last edited by TilleyJon; 02-08-2017 at 01:00 AM.
  #48  
Old 07-02-2017, 02:57 AM
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Well its been a while since my last update but things have been proceeding at a pace now and I'm currently working on the interior.

One thing I have found when replacing the headlining is that the tacks need to be on the underside of the tacking strip (I.e. facing the floor) not on the side otherwise the wood won't quite cover them.

I've put a few photos below showing recent progress, still a fair bit to do and I need to find some reasonably priced tyres for it (any suggestions welcome).
 
Attached Thumbnails 1959 MK2 3.8 Restoration-img_20170330_181858794.jpg   1959 MK2 3.8 Restoration-dsc_0134.jpg   1959 MK2 3.8 Restoration-dsc_0141.jpg   1959 MK2 3.8 Restoration-img_20170219_105811504_hdr.jpg   1959 MK2 3.8 Restoration-img_20170529_191935181.jpg  


Last edited by Homersimpson; 07-02-2017 at 03:06 AM.
  #49  
Old 07-02-2017, 01:31 PM
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https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...e-size-116157/

185/80 R15

When I was hunting, I found this size to be quite common and readily available in your country.

https://www.oponeo.co.uk/tyre-finder/r=1/185-80-r15

The guy that owns Longstone tyres is adamant that any inexpensive 185/80 R 15 is not a good choice, but many report otherwise.

He would like you to get these.

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page...helin-xas.html
 

Last edited by JeffR1; 07-02-2017 at 01:40 PM.
  #50  
Old 11-26-2017, 03:52 PM
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Its been a long time since I last posted, progress has been slow but I have attached a couple of photos of where I am up to at the moment.

Its getting a bit cold for working in the garage now though.
 
Attached Thumbnails 1959 MK2 3.8 Restoration-20170618_155549.jpg   1959 MK2 3.8 Restoration-img_20170709_105538363.jpg   1959 MK2 3.8 Restoration-img_20170723_194237870.jpg  
  #51  
Old 11-26-2017, 04:04 PM
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One problem I have been having is wiring up the wiper motor, as the cables into the motor were all old and you couldn't tell the colours I replaced them with the colours in the picture below, I then connected up the motor and switch as per the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual.

Unfortunatly it didn't work so I tested the switch connections to see what they did in each position and then drew out diagrams of how it should work, I found that I needed to swap over terminals 1 and 3 (1 was green and yellow and 3 was red and green) and also terminals 5 and 6 (5 was brown and green and 6 was white and green).

The motor all works now but I would be interested to know whether the diagram I have for the motor colours is wrong or the Haynes manual? Can anyone have a look at their car and wiper motor and let me know?
 
Attached Thumbnails 1959 MK2 3.8 Restoration-lucas-dr3-manual-addendum.jpg   1959 MK2 3.8 Restoration-wiper-wiring-diagram.png  
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  #52  
Old 12-29-2017, 03:09 AM
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I'm just putting the dash back together and found that the lock on the glovebox has a different key to the ignition and doors, I wondered if this had been changed but then remembered that the number on the glove box lock was the same as the number on the boot lock.

I assumed when I previously refitted the boot lock that it had just been changed at some point.

I did some searching on google and found out that Jaguars of the period had one key for the ignition and doors and one key for the glovebox and boot, it seems that if you valet parked your car you gave the valet the door and ignition key only and the contents of the boot and glove box remained secure.

I'm not sure if all MK2's were the same or if it was only for the North American market (I would image that there was not much valet parking the UK in the 1960's?).

Has anyone else come across this?
 

Last edited by Homersimpson; 12-29-2017 at 03:13 AM.
  #53  
Old 12-29-2017, 05:50 AM
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My 68 340 is the same way.
 
  #54  
Old 12-29-2017, 07:18 AM
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I think they are all the same, it's not for valet parking only, if you take your car for a service or repair, you can leave your belongings in the glove box and boot without the mechanics having access.

Did you even have valet parking in the 1960's ?
 
  #55  
Old 12-29-2017, 03:53 PM
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The next problem to resolve before finally fitting the dash top rail was that the instruments in the centre of the dash don't work.

When I got the engine running I used a mechanical gauge and and since this I have a temporary link to provide power to the voltage regulator but it needed to be done properly.

I remembered that there were two green wires in the new loom next to each other which weren't connected to anything, when I installed the loom I just put a connector on each (as I did with all the connectors to prevent any shorts).

Unfortunately these were behind the drivers side dash (RHD) and although I could see them I couldn't reach them. I used my multimeter to check then and found that one had continuity to the wire to the voltage regulator and the other became live when the ignition was on.

I tried to connect the together but there wasn't the space to get my hand up there, rather than remove the dash I reckoned that if I removed the tachometer I could get in there and maybe connect them.

After much struggling I remove the tacho and connected the two wires and hey presto they gauges all work.

I have contacted the people who made the loom asking why this is here but they are closed for Christmas, it will be interesting to see if they respond.

My old loom doesn't seem to have this but its such a mess I can't be sure. Has anyone else come across this?

At least the dash is now in and everything seems to work ok.

One other thing, the dash illumination switch needs to be in the up position for the illumination to work rather than down, is this correct?
 
  #56  
Old 12-29-2017, 08:32 PM
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Thanks for the update- nice work getting the wiring issue resolved!
 
  #57  
Old 12-30-2017, 01:23 AM
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Best guess on the connectors is that there would be a 3 way bullet connector, so that there is power switched via the ignition for the heated rear window if fitted, the heated rear window switch would be located on the instrument panel RHS on RHD cars so that would be a logical place for the feed.
I don't know for a fact, but my best guess. The feed source for the heated rear window is not clear on the wiring diagrams, and I have ditched my old loom, so I cannot state this for sure.
 
  #58  
Old 01-06-2018, 02:23 PM
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I'm now starting to think about fitting seat belts to the car, it doesn't have the upper holes in the B/C post and I didn't want to fit them but I do want some form of seatbelts so have settled on lap belts in the front but want 3 point belts in the rear so my daughters car seat can go in (she's 2 and a half).

Can anyone let me have measurements of where the standard seatbelt mounting holes for front and back are? I have bought some harness reinforcing plates with welded in nuts so that I can use these as mounting and the fitting will look 'aftermarket' which is what I wanted as I didn't want to detract from what the car is.
 
  #59  
Old 01-07-2018, 08:49 AM
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I'll post the measurements a bit later when I get a few mins.
 
  #60  
Old 01-07-2018, 12:06 PM
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A poor picture of the rear seat area, bit blurry ! But hopefully you can get the dimensions, if you had a straight edge across the rear seat it would basically sit on both sides and the propshaft tunnel, this dimension is 24 3/4 " from the top of where the rear seat hooks in.

The seat belt points all sit along this line, with the middle 2 being 5 1/2" either side of the centre of the prop tunnel, and the far ones are 28" either side of centre, and sit just inside where the wiring goes up over the wheel arches.

The pdf shows the layout of the parcel shelf for my speakers, but the small holes in either corner are the seat belt anchoring points for the 3 point belts, there is a 3/4" diameter by 1/4" deep circular lug welded here with the thread in the centre for the top mount.

Hopefully this is ok, any questions, just ask.

Jon
 
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