Is it best to remove the engine along with the transmission, or individually. I need to remove components anyway. My car is an automatic.

 

They HAVE to come out together. There is no room to separate them:

 

It is difficult to split the engine from the gearbox whilst still in the car due to space at the back to reach the upper bell housing bolts. You can remove the gear box on the Auto first leaving the torque converter and bell housing attached to the engine then pull the engine. Most though remove both engine and gearbox at the same time. They can either come out of the top or by dropping the front subframe they can also be dropped out of the bottom.

 

You would have to cut holes all over the tunnel to get to the bolts.

 

You can put both in from the bottom without the crossbeam/crossarm/crossmember but they still need to be together.

 

If its a DG250 automatic then you can remove the autobox with the engine in the car (leaving the torque converter and bell housing on the engine) but its a bit of a fiddle to get to the two bolts on the top.

Unless there is a real need to do it I would take them out together as it saves a lot of hassle.

 

It's not a good move even with the DG250. Just asking for more leaks.

 

The DG250 leaks badly enough as it is.

 

They don't leak, they just mark their spot!

 

They leak like a sieve. Anybody that knows them knows that. Best floor rust preventative around.

 

And they leak worse as the torque converter slowly drains back to sump. Ask Orlando on this forum or The Resister. He has had Ken Jenkins work on his and Graham Whitehouse. There are no greater specialists on the DG250.

 

Where did you get the graphic?

 

Done SO MANY of these back in the day, although very few autos. Preferred option out here in Oz was 4spd manual + electric overdrive.

It's worth pointing to a number of options . . . and a glaring trap evident in the post #2 graphic, which you will stumble into half way through removal. Graphic clearly shows floor jack positioned under but retracted, not engaging the cross-member, thus not lifting the car. Trying to remove combined engine+trans with car on floor, the tailshaft flange will snag on floor while bell-housing snags on firewall. Here then are the options . . .

• lift, as per the graphic, but with car itself raised about 300mm (1ft) off the ground (makes for quite tall engine lift);
• tilt engine down without removing cross-member; remove trans (do-able), then lift engine out separately (nuts to re-installing together);
• lift, as per graphic, but over a pit so rear of trans can droop below floor level (brilliant but rare even in workshop or racing pits);
• drop and remove front cross-member; lower engine+trans onto a creeper; then lift car and wheel out engine+trans;

And then there was the method we adopted . . . fast and furious . . . because it takes early advantage of later work anyway . . .

• first, at TDC, disengage cam pulleys and oil feed, removing head, all manifolds carbs etc as a single unit;
• with upper cam pulleys tied, the engine + trans can be lifted out as shown in graphic, although we still used trolley jack if needed.

Of course. all methods demand that fan and rad be removed and, in all cases, the re-install is easier if combined, as aligning the shaft into clutch is a pain under car . . .

Cheers,

 

I mean Register!!!!