Engine rebuild question - last mile
#1
Engine rebuild question - last mile
Hi All,
We are rebuilding the engine of a MK2 3.8 liter (1960). We are in the home stretch, but have hit a snag. We get a high voltage spark upon turning ignition on and another spark when we turn ignition off. But when we test the spark plugs, we get nothing. Have replaced coil, distributor cap, plugs and wires. Any ideas?
Thank you.
Rob
We are rebuilding the engine of a MK2 3.8 liter (1960). We are in the home stretch, but have hit a snag. We get a high voltage spark upon turning ignition on and another spark when we turn ignition off. But when we test the spark plugs, we get nothing. Have replaced coil, distributor cap, plugs and wires. Any ideas?
Thank you.
Rob
#4
Hi All,
We are rebuilding the engine of a MK2 3.8 liter (1960). We are in the home stretch, but have hit a snag. We get a high voltage spark upon turning ignition on and another spark when we turn ignition off. But when we test the spark plugs, we get nothing. Have replaced coil, distributor cap, plugs and wires. Any ideas?
Thank you.
Rob
We are rebuilding the engine of a MK2 3.8 liter (1960). We are in the home stretch, but have hit a snag. We get a high voltage spark upon turning ignition on and another spark when we turn ignition off. But when we test the spark plugs, we get nothing. Have replaced coil, distributor cap, plugs and wires. Any ideas?
Thank you.
Rob
The coil is OK because you have spark.
Depending if your car is positive or negative ground.
Temporarily hook the coil directly to the 12 volt side of the battery to make sure it's getting 12 volts.
This will by-pass the ignition circuit.
If the car then has spark and starts, then the problem lies with in the ignition circuit somewhere.
If the car is positive ground, the positive side of the coil will go to the distributor and the negative side will go to the negative side of the battery.
If the car is negative ground, then the positive side of the coil goes to the positive side of the battery and the negative side of the coil goes to the distributor.
When doing this test, disconnect the ignition side line from the coil.
If it still does not fire when bypassing the cars ignition circuit, then check the small braded copper line inside the distributor.
Make sure that it's connection are good and that it's not shorting out anywhere inside the distributor.
Make sure that your points are installed correctly as well, there is a small collared nylon washer that isolates the points where the flexible braded line is secured to.
The nylon washer isolates the points from ground, but not the braded copper wire.
Also, when connecting the coil directly to the battery, do not leave it connected in this way for more the a couple of minutes with out the car running.
If the points happen to be closed, voltage from the battery will heat up the coil.
Also check to see if the rotor is turning when the car turns over.
Another member had missed putting the role pin in the drive gear on the end of the distributor shaft.
You can also grab the rotor and it should not turn. This is to make sure that the role pin is actually in place.
Last edited by JeffR1; 06-01-2018 at 07:41 PM.
#5
Rob, when you say you are getting a spark when you turn ignition on, and when you turn it off, can you explain where you are checking for this spark.
Are you saying that you are getting a single spark from the coil when you turn on the ignition, and another spark when you turn the ignition off, but nothing when you crank the engine ?
Are you saying that you are getting a single spark from the coil when you turn on the ignition, and another spark when you turn the ignition off, but nothing when you crank the engine ?
#7
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