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Hell, I should appreciate some assistance and possibly some photos. I am restoring a 1968 MK2 240 automatic RHD.
I have the engine running and would like to do some IR temperature checks but I am struggling to identify the correct positions for the cable from the heater control slider to the valve inlet. The Car/Screen cable seems to be straightforward enough going to the opening flap lever at the RH side of the heater box. I have 2 cables one a sleeved single steel wire cable and a piece of L shaped wire. I have 2 cable connectors and a tiny screw stored in the packet for the heater job. The removal of the heater implies the cables should be removed attached to the heater box and they probably were when I took the heater out but in renovating the box I have obviously separated them but I cannot find any useful photographs of the correct positions onto the valve inlet. The workshop manual doesn't really help as I presume they feel the cables should have remained attached. Figure 4 on Page O.5 is what I am referring to, it appears that the L shaped wire should attach to the lower circle of the two on the valve, I can see where the sleeved cable should be gripped in a cable holder but on the picture the end fixing is in a cross hatch area and I cannot see where it should be attached.
Thanks for your help much appreciated
Frank Lower cable clamp for sleeved cable but uncertain about where to fix the cable end Showing the cable from the Car/Screen lever within the car to the lever attachment of the opening flap The loose parts that i have, 2 cable connectors, one L shaped wire and a tiny screw!
I have found the answer on the forum from a post in 2015. (I had searched before posting but have found it since).
In a question "Heater Box Springs and Connection" there is a reply and photograph from KrisMotors sowing the exact placement of the two cables to adjust the heat flow.
I'm pleased you found it. I was hoping Bill Mac from Aus. would answer your question but he seems MIA. He knows Mk1s & Mk2s backwards. I'm an S Type man and all that gubbins is vacuum controlled on the S.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Aug 30, 2023 at 10:21 AM.
I have found the answer on the forum from a post in 2015. (I had searched before posting but have found it since).
In a question "Heater Box Springs and Connection" there is a reply and photograph from KrisMotors sowing the exact placement of the two cables to adjust the heat flow.
Thanks
Frank
Frank can you put a link to that post on here please if it was on this forum just in case someone else looks but can't find. Like Glyn I am an S Type man and all vacuum controlled.
No problem at all. I Mod at Internet Brands Automotive MBWorld and know this software backwards.
You just go "Search this Forum", Find what you want (hopefully), Highlight the URL in your Browser task bar. Copy it, and then paste it into your comment. Then post/save.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Aug 30, 2023 at 04:14 PM.
MIA? Definitely! Got tied up in some aviation activities.
Happy to see this heater problem got sorted out without my input.
Actually, I don't have the heater currently working in my MK2 as it was a low priority and is hardly used in our sub-tropical climate.
It needs a new tap and at the moment the heater lines are bypassed.
Must get around to doing something about it!!
Kind of you to reply, yes seems to be fitted ok now. I’m not certain how effective a heater it will be, but if we ever have any, driving on a summers day will be ok. The scuttle vent has the expected corroded piano hinge but I wasn’t prepared to go down the route of cutting all that out. It has some movement after being drenched in releasing oil.
I’ve just about finished a 4 year restoration, car was last on the road maybe 1987 or possibly 1991 hard to say from the paperwork. Although to be fair it spent 18 months locked down in the paint shop during Covid.
It’s an automatic and I have some issues with that. Are you a wizard that could help me if I can’t sort the gear shifts out?
Thanks for following up.
Kind regards
Frank
I am not sure what auto gearbox was fitted to your very late MK2 or 240.
The earlier cars were fitted with the DG box and the trick there was to check the oil level with the engine running and in "D" drive gear.
Wives, partners and friends were necessary adjuncts to do this check. They kept a foot on the brake. (don't trust a Jag handbrake)
Perhaps some other member of the forum can identify the type of gearbox fitted to your car.
Cheers
I am unfamiliar with the BW 35 as fitted to Jaguars.
The DG 250 in MK1 and MK2s had a couple of peculiarities in that all selections were driven by rods.
When the motor mounts decayed the rod adjustments went out of "whack" and a common problem was that the kick down engaged and the box would not go into top gear.
I saw this on a number of MK1 and MK2 automatic cars.
The solution was new motor mounts and readjustment of the rods
MIA Enjoy?
Not much fun doing the annual inspection of my Piper Cherokee 235.
Jacking up the aeroplane, removing wheels to inspect bearings and regrease etc. Much crawling around on the floor under the wing.
Lying inverted under the instrument panel inspecting controls.
Remove 12 spark plugs clean and re-install. Compression leak down check. Oil filter change
And so it goes on and on.
Cheers