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MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Jaguar Mk2 340 Restoration to date

  #341  
Old 11-27-2018, 05:38 PM
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Hi guys, any advice.. currently restoring my dads Jaguar Mk2.. have the fire wall repaired etc.. whatís best to paint behind dash board? I will zinc coat the firewall then red oxide then apply rubber based top coat..

any advice would be appreciated!

thanks grant..

 
  #342  
Old 11-28-2018, 01:48 AM
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Unfortunately it's been under covers for nearly 3 months now, work has been so busy I have had no time to get stuck in, upholstery is virtually done, seats are done but not in, lights are all on and working, most of the Chrome is on.

I need to get a day or so to button down the dash electrics before I fit the seats, then I will get the running gear on and engine in and I am there as such.

Hopefully I will get the pre Christmas mania out of the way work wise and I can get some time over Christmas to get the electrics finished.

 
  #343  
Old 11-28-2018, 03:09 AM
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hi Jon, thanks for the reply.. sounds like the jag will be ready for summer.. any advice on painting inside of dash board/ firewall? (See my other post).

Thanks
 
  #344  
Old 11-28-2018, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Grant Bovard View Post
hi Jon, thanks for the reply.. sounds like the jag will be ready for summer.. any advice on painting inside of dash board/ firewall? (See my other post).

Thanks
I took everything back to bare metal with media blasting, then after treating with a Phosphating solution painted everything with high zinc primer, 2 coats of epoxy primer, then regular primer and basecoat-cleatcoat 2K finish.

I applied this to every face inside and behind the dash and inside the engine bay.

The inside of the engine bay to be completely original had a textured undercoat with body colour over, but I did not do the textured finish as it holds the dirt easier in my opinion. I did the same to the underside, up to and including the 2 coats of epoxy primer, but then coated it with uPol Raptor truck bed liner which is a Urethane based coating, which is flexible and also really tough, I then over painted that with black 2K and will also coat with a body wax after everything is done, so I will end up with the zinc coat (cathodic rust inhibitor) 2 coats + epoxy primer, 1 coat Raptor, 2 coats Black 2K and body wax, for hopefully complete corrosion protection underneath, and the rest of the body inside and out will have had Zinc primer 2X coats Epoxy (at least), 2K primer and then 2K basecoat-clearcoat finish.

In your case I would take the engine out, media blast the engine bay and follow the same procedure, you really need to get it back to bare metal to make sure you deal with all the rust and work back from there, if you leave any rust it will come back in a few months/years and ruin all your hard work unless you deal with it fully.

Thta's the best advice I can give you, others may have different opinions/products, but I did a lot of research on this and this is the way I decided to go.

If I can help further just ask. You are not far from me being in Poole a mere stones throw (if you have a strong arm !!)
 
  #345  
Old 11-28-2018, 02:57 PM
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Hi Jon,

Thanks for the reply.. given me an idea of what to do.. itís hard to know where to start!

Yes will take engine out and front and rear axles and go from there.. was thinking of putting in a rotisserie then cleaning the underneath and then go from there.. the car was quite rusty.. already had new floors welded in, scuttle panel part as shown in pic..


front cross member, crows feet.. the doors will be next! Someone has painted behind some parts of the dash with Waxoyl!! When I repaint scuttle part.. see pic below.. would you do the same build up of paint?


Where are you based?

Thanks grant
 
  #346  
Old 11-28-2018, 03:30 PM
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Hi Grant,
Start up a new thread, it will be easier to keep your stuff all together, post lots of pics of where you are at the moment, looks like you have a fair bit to do, rotisserie is absolutely the way to go, you do need a pretty heavy duty one, and these cars are no light, but you need the front and rear bumper mounts intact and solid to mount it on the rotisserie easily.

Are you doing the fabrication work yourself ? I have some plans for the rotisserie I built for the mine, I will let you have them if you want to build it yourself, it has to be able to be adjusted for height, as the weight distribution changes quite a lot the more you take off or add to the car.

You really need to get the front crossmember done before you get it on the rotisserie as you need to access the front cross members where you mount the car to do the crossmember.

With the front suspension off and the engine and gearbox out, leave the rear axle on, you can do the front crossmember on axle stands but you need the weight of the rear axle on the body as the axle stands have to be located just behind the firewall on the chassis rails so there is a fair bit of car overhanging the axle stands and the rear axle provides stability while you doing that. You can then mount it on the rotisserie, and remove the rear axle with it mounted, but obviously still the correct way up !

You can leave the doors on at this stage and turn the car on it's side to strip it off, you will need to strip the interior to avoid burning anything internally during welding and take the looms out of the cills or they will be fried by the heat. I completely rewired my car with a different fusebox so discarded all the old looms, but keep bulb holders etc. as you will need these obviously.

I am just south of Bath so not that far up the A36 really !
 
  #347  
Old 11-28-2018, 04:31 PM
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Hi Jon,

Thanks for reply.. Iíve started a new thread.. Mk2 restoration in Poole Dorset.. Iíve posted some pics on there..

advice on rotisserie would be fantastic..

thanks again grant
 

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