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I have been prepping the body for paint and sorting the door shuts and gaps etc.
Got to start the dash top wood, here are some pictures showing the stripping ,1st pic shows existing finish, 3rd and 4th pics show RHS stripped 5th pic shows before and after and then the first sanding after 2 coats of lacquer, and again after another 2 coats tonight.
Last edited by TilleyJon; Feb 3, 2018 at 12:35 AM.
What are you using to strip the upper dash with, doesn't look like all the old finish has been removed and your clear coat isn't playing nice with the residue left over ?
Plus there's like bits of the cross banding missing/peeling on the upper edge next to the windshield.
If you're going to use auto clear coat, it's best to use an alcohol based stripper with methylene chloride in it.
I know the stuff isn't very user friendly, but it gets the job done much better then the wussy water based products.
And if you're going to use a water based stripper, then washing down with lacquer thinner and or acetone will remove the mess left behind by the water base products.
Methyl-hydrate can work too, but it's kind of week.
Finishing up the "prep" with the "thinner" used for the clear coat ensures a good spray surface.
What are you using to strip the upper dash with, doesn't look like all the old finish has been removed and your clear coat isn't playing nice with the residue left over ?
Plus there's like bits of the cross banding missing/peeling on the upper edge next to the windshield.
If you're going to use auto clear coat, it's best to use an alcohol based stripper with methylene chloride in it.
I know the stuff isn't very user friendly, but it gets the job done much better then the wussy water based products.
And if you're going to use a water based stripper, then washing down with lacquer thinner and or acetone will remove the mess left behind by the water base products.
Methyl-hydrate can work too, but it's kind of week.
Finishing up the "prep" with the "thinner" used for the clear coat ensures a good spray surface.
Hi Jeff, first pic shows the previous finish, I say that because it looks like someone has had a go before, I use thinners and wire wool to strip the finish off, I started stripping the right hand side to show the difference, and yes there are some bits of cross banding missing which required patching in, as it is right down by the screen a patch piece is ok there.
The smudged bit in the middle is just where the thinners has been wiped over the one side, I have used the industrial methylene chloride stripper before, but depending on what finish is on there as to whether that or thinners works best for me. The water based stuff is useless IMO ! I bought some Nitromors last year and now they have taken out the good stuff so they can sell it to DIYers it doesn't work at all !!!!!!
Last edited by TilleyJon; Feb 3, 2018 at 12:53 AM.
Nitromors is now green in colour, and as much use as a Chocolate fireguard IMO only softened the top coat, did not blister at all even after 3 coats, and I even tried covering in with plastic when it was wet to try and make it work. I also tried putting newspaper over it and then soaking the newspaper too, still no joy, I gave it to a friend to try and he promptly gave it back as he had the same problem !!!
Just read through all 16 pages, What a marathon ( The restoration, Not me reading 16 pages!) Great that you've tackled everything yourself, You have really put your stamp on it, Some nice touches and ideas ie: the speed sensitive steering rack, Stupid questions as i most probably missed the reasons 1) I take it the cut outs on the front inner wings are to get rid of heat from the engine bay? 2) Why the cut outs on the outer sills on your undersealing shots? Also getting another MK2 to restore before you've finished this one - Love it!
Thanks Blot, hopefully it will be on the road before 3 years is up !
The cut outs are for heat removal, Primaz did this, and I followed his lead basically.
The cut outs on the sills have 2 purposes, for ease of re-wiring the B post, but primarily for on going maintenance and inspection as I can easily inspect for any corrosion and treat the sills with rust preventing oil, they will have stainless covers made which will be painted, fitted with seals and screwed in place.
The prepping seems never ending, and the eventual judge of the job is the final coat. His worship Justice F. Coat is very unforgiving, and the penalty for being lazy during prep is very harsh!
I failed to "guide coat" one panel during my resto. The penalty was many hours hard labour re-doing it.
George it is Gunmetal Grey, not officially a 340 colour, but used Etype colour code for the paint match, also has some blue pearl in the first clearcoat, again not stock, but boy will it pop in the sunlight, you won't see it on a dull day or at night, and only on the curves in the sun or bright light.
Well it seems to have been ages since I have had much time to do any work on the car. been plodding on with the interior, but have had other things that have taken up my spare time recently.
Door panel installed
Recessed this double DIN head unit to clear the heater controls
Rear door panel
Amplifiers in the boot, hopefully the sound deadening does the job
Last edited by TilleyJon; Sep 23, 2018 at 01:32 PM.
Your car is coming along quite nicely. One of the advantages of having others make more progress than me is that I won't continue to make mistakes if I watch what others have done. Thanks for sharing.
